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Head on a delightful chai trail through Mumbai—a paradise for chai lovers.
If you are a chai lover like me, Mumbai will be a paradise for you. There are numerous chai joints all around the city. Whether it's the humble roadside vendor or an upscale eatery, nearly every bustling street is adorned with a chai establishment. These places provide an array of choices, from the classic "cutting" chai to the exquisite Suleimani, each coming in diverse sizes, colors, and infused with a variety of ingredients.
Located in South Mumbai’s commercial hub, Yazdani Bakery, in Fort, is a century-old Irani cafe. The place is known for its freshly baked buns (bread) and delicious Irani chai. If you are in the area, at the start of the day, I highly recommend visiting the bakery to experience their freshly baked goodies like khari biscuits, mawa cakes, and even Shrewsbury biscuits, along with a piping hot cup of Irani chai. The trick with Irani chai is that the milk is added to the brewed tea, directly into the serving cup. Unlike other methods of brewing tea, the milk is boiled and kept in a separate utensil. The server fills half a cup with black tea (with sugar already added) and then splashes the cup with two tablespoons of boiled milk. The chai is strong and invigorating, perfect to start your day.
Cafe Military is another quintessential Irani cafe that serves a variety of teas, including the famous Sulaimani chai. This tea is a mix of black tea, cloves, cardamom, lime juice, and sugar. The result is a refreshing and tangy drink that is perfect to brighten your mood. The roots of Sulaimani Chai have been recounted through diverse narratives, yet the most widely embraced tale traces its arrival in India from the Middle East via the Malabar Coast. The Arab traders, who frequented Kerala for trade, acquainted the local inhabitants with this rendition of black tea. Gradually, the allure of Sulaimani chai spread across the length and breadth of India, gaining immense popularity. Another cafe in Bhindi Bazar, called Al-Jabbari, serves a spicy version of this chai that is made using black pepper, ginger, cloves and green cardamoms. I have had it, and I can tell you that it’s so spicy that one little cup can clear up any nasal congestion or sinus discomfort! Over the years, I have seen many customers queue up to have this version of Sulaimani chai armed with a box of tissues!
Located in Bandra West, the Taj Mahal Tea House offers an extensive tea menu—an assortment of milky tea, black tea, spiced tea, and cold-brewed iced tea. The place is both inviting and quaint, with the tea house occupying the confines of a vintage bungalow, imbuing the setting with a delightful sense of homeliness. Drawing inspiration from Portuguese villa aesthetics, the decor paints a picture of elegance, offering patrons both indoor, air-conditioned comfort and the option to enjoy their tea outdoors. The place is great if you would like to invite friends for a tea break and munch on a range of snacks like sandwiches, cakes, and cookies. I recommend the Kashmiri Kahwa, the Malabari Coconut Vanilla Chai, and the Hyderabadi Sulaimani Tea.
Another must-visit place in Bandra is the Tea Villa Cafe on Hill Road. The stablishment has outlets all over Mumbai. If you love black tea and green tea, this is the perfect place to enjoy a cuppa. I have spent several afternoons in the corner of this cafe, sipping on chai and looking out the glass windows as the rain patters on the roof. I recommend trying the Jasmine Pearls Green Tea, Matcha, and Ginseng Oolong. Located at one end of Hill Road, the cafe becomes an essential stop following a bout of retail therapy at the area's street vendors. Their adrak chai, made with ginger, is a must-try for any chai lover. The perfect blend of tea and ginger make it a warming and refreshing drink.
In Mumbai’s street lingo, a tea stall is popularly referred to as a chai tapri. You will find scores of chai tapris in all parts of the city. Having lived in Mumbai for decades, I can vouch for the taste and quality of the chai made at these stalls. However, it's important to keep a little trick up your sleeve when indulging in chai at a tapri. If your chai craving hits you post 3pm, always ask for a "special chai". Here’s why... The stall vendor kickstarts the day bright and early, often commencing operations as early as 5 am. Their practice involves continually incorporating brewed tea masala into each subsequent brew. This incremental process leads to the tea growing stronger as the day progresses. By afternoon, the tea reaches such robust intensity that it might trigger acidity. Therefore, to sidestep any potential discomfort like bloating and flatulence, opting for a "special chai"—a milkier version of the tea—would be a wise choice. Keep this trick in mind, the next time you have your cutting at the tapri. Another novelty that you can find at the tapri is Kulhad chai. Served in earthen cups, the chai has a unique earthy flavour that enhances the taste of the tea. So, on your next rendezvous with friends or for a quick tea-time getaway from work—depending on the occasion, time and place—do explore these various options to enjoy soul-stirring cups of tea.
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