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Reflect, rediscover, and rejuvenate in the lap of nature
You try your best to focus on manoeuvring up a tricky slope surrounded by ancient, creaking trees – but an incessant ‘tap-tap-tap’ sound rings in your ears. Finally, your curiosity gets the better of you and you latch onto a nearby tree to steady yourself so that you can crane your neck to locate the source of the distraction. The naturalist accompanying you on this trek points to a tree a few metres away.
A flameback woodpecker is clasping the tree trunk, furiously tapping the bark for a tasty snack of spiders, ants, and termites. Before you can brandish your camera, the bright orange-coloured bird has flitted away to another tree. The naturalist assures you that the little creature will circle back to this very tree shortly. And it does. Encounters like these are common when you’re trekking in the wild forests of Coorg. Located 250-odd kilometres from Bangalore, Coorg is flanked by the Western Ghats and dotted with plantations growing coffee, vanilla, pepper, and other spices.
An easy drive from Bangalore or Mysore, this hill station is a favourite among wildlife and trekking enthusiasts. And if you’re neither, Coorg is still a great place to seek refuge from the hustle and bustle of New Year’s Eve in big cities.
It is the journey to Coorg that sets the tone for the rest of your trip. As you leave the traffic of the city behind, winding roads give way to lush shola forests. Just before Coorg, you can stop at Bylakuppe. If this is your first visit to this area, you might be surprised to see Buddhist monks in their distinctive maroon robes, haggling in Bylakuppe's main market alongside lungi-clad locals. This is because you’re in Karnataka’s Tibetan settlement. You can visit the gorgeous Golden Temple (also known as Namdroling Monastery) and get a taste of the Tibetan way of life before continuing your journey.
As you approach Coorg, you spot coffee bushes squatting in neat rows under soaring eucalyptus trees. A typical day at a plantation here starts early, but time moves at a leisurely pace. You don’t have to live by the clock here – a luxury not many city folks have back home. The only thing you have to worry about is showing up at the communal dining area at meal times. You can spend the rest of your hours doing what you like – be it reading, listening to music, exploring the surroundings, or simply dozing.
After an invigorating trek to a breathtaking viewpoint where you spot more birds like golden orioles, hornbills, treepies and flycatchers, it's time to return to your homestay. Luckily, breakfast is already on the table for you and your fellow famished trekkers. Coorgi specialities like kadambuttu, (steamed rice balls), spicy coconut chutney, and bamboo curry are awaiting you. There’s also akki roti (rice roti) with ellu pajj (sesame-seed chutney). The communal breakfast table is surrounded by the happy faces of fellow guests, all exchanging stories of the bird and animal sightings on their morning treks.
Many plantations in Coorg offer rustic but comfortable rooms with delicious home-cooked meals and the freedom to roam their huge plantations. If you prefer creature comforts when travelling, rest assured there’s no dearth of luxury resorts in Coorg. However, living in a plantation stay allows you to get a sense of the local flavour and immerse yourself in estate life.
Whether you’re a child or an adult, there’s so much to learn from nature. Living on a plantation gives you the advantage of bringing education out of textbooks and into daily life. Let your young ones wander around the property and they might spot cardamom plants being harvested. Interestingly, cardamom grows at the foot of the plant and the pods are plucked by hand. They can try their hand at it, too, under the guidance of the experienced workers who will touch the pod and tell them which ones are ready to be picked and which ones need just a little more time on the stalk. Similarly, they can explore the other spices being grown on the plantation like ginger, turmeric, pepper, and vanilla. Sign up for a spice tour and you can learn all about planting, harvesting, and processing of spices and coffee.
Similarly, they can explore the other spices being grown on the plantation like ginger, turmeric, pepper, and vanilla. Sign up for a spice tour and you can learn all about planting, harvesting, and processing of spices and coffee.
You can also settle down in a hammock with your favourite book and lose yourself for a few hours alternating between reading and admiring the tree canopy above you. It’s only when the temperature climbs do you realise that you can visit the Kaveri River nearby where the local children are monkeying around. You dip your toes in gingerly, allowing your body to get used to the cool water before plonking down on the shallow riverbed. It's only when you notice your fingers getting pruney that you realise it’s time to make your way back.
Another way to enjoy the river is by heading down to Dubare Elephant Camp where you can get up close and personal with elephants. Run by Jungle Lodges & Resorts, this camp is home to both adult and baby elephants, who march down to the river every morning to bathe. Watching these gentle giants plop down in the water with a big splash is a delightful experience, especially if you’re visiting with children. This is also a good opportunity for the little ones to learn more about these fascinating creatures and the role of conservation for the future of this species.
Nature scenery isn’t the only treat in Coorg’s kitty. Take the short drive to Madikeri town and you can dive into a bit of history as well. Madikeri Fort, which was built by Mudduraja, sits in the heart of the city looking a bit out of place next to provision stores, restaurants, and pharmacies. The fort has undergone many face-lifts including one by Tipu Sultan, the ruler of Mysore, as well as the British.
Within the fort, there is a palace and a church, which used to be a temple dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra that was later demolished by the British to make way for the church. Today, the white-washed Gothic-style church is converted into a museum showcasing Kodava, or Coorgi, relics. Stroll around the mossy ramparts of the derelict fort and pay your respects at the Kothe Ganpati Temple for a humbling experience.
Evenings are best spent at the estate and especially now because it’s time to celebrate (after all, it is New Year’s Eve). Curl up in front of the bonfire with a steaming cup of hot soup (or something stronger, if you wish). Look around the campfire and you’ll see everyone is just as mesmerized as the fire burns brighter, warming everyone up as the wind whistles through the trees. A delightful spread is laid out for the gala dinner, which includes Coorgi specialities like pandi curry (a pork delicacy), marinated in a local vinegar called Kachampuli served with Paputtu (steamed rice bread).
As midnight approaches, you thank your lucky stars since no fireworks are polluting the air, nor is loud music blasting from loudspeakers. Instead, a deep sense of calm washes over you. The pop and crackle of the bonfire and the symphony of crickets are the only sounds you hear as you ring in the New Year. The joy of spending this special evening in a verdant forest relishing the simple pleasures of life is one you shouldn’t miss out on at least once in your life.
As you are about to leave Coorg, you are overcome by a desire to catch a final glimpse of this southern paradise. Raja’s Seat is a gorgeous viewpoint set amid a well-manicured garden and a favourite spot of the kings and queens of Coorg. This spot offers some of the best views of Madikeri. A viewing platform hangs out over the forest making it a fantastic place from which to view the sunsets (also sunrises). As dusk settles, fog rolls in and it's time to bid goodbye.
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