A road trip to remember in the extraordinary state of Meghalaya

Road to Umiam Lake, Shillong

After landing in Guwahati, we got into a pre-booked self-drive car from the airport. The route to Shillong from Guwahati is interesting. The NH 6 cuts through the states of Assam and Meghalaya with shops on either side of the road, indicating signs of both states. This is something I had never seen in India. We were headed towards Umiam Lake to witness the sunset from this beautiful expanse of a man-made water body. Located just on the outskirts of Shillong, the lake is a result of a hydroelectric project. Surrounded by the lush green Khasi Hills, the shimmering crimson ripples on the lake are a sight to behold at dusk. We stayed at a property overlooking the lake, and I woke up to the sound of chirping birds and the faint murmur of the lake.

The City of Shillong

Located just an hour away from Umiam Lake, Shillong offers an abundance of attractions to explore. My first stop was the imposing blue-coloured Cathedral Catholic Church. Also known as the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians, this earthquake-resistant structure, located in the heart of the city, looks impressive with its tall arches and massive walls. The interiors are equally interesting. I was particularly impressed by the scenes from the life of Jesus that are depicted in German terracotta figurines. The stained glass windows were brought from France, and light up the inside of the Church in myriad shades of colours. Like almost all Northeastern state capitals, Shillong too has a stunning museum depicting the tradition and culture of the local tribes. The Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous Cultures is a 20 minute drive from the church. It houses 17 galleries that display several tribal paraphernalia—weapons, handicrafts, handlooms, jewellery, and musical instruments along with maps, charts, photos and videos depicting their lifestyle.

On the way to the museum is the expansive Shillong Golf Course. There is nothing much to do here except for lounging on the grass. I did the same while admiring the beautiful surroundings that had pine and rhododendron trees. I was surprised to hear from a local cabbie in the parking lot that this is one of oldest natural golf circuits in the world. Our next stop was Elephant Falls. The three-tiered waterfall is a 30 minute drive from Shillong. Surrounded by a garden landscape, the falls look exquisite. The first of the falls especially looked like a combination of a hundred smaller falls cascading against the black rugged boulders. The second fall is much smaller, while the third fall is probably the biggest of the three. A staircase runs by the side of this fall, and I could almost touch the white frothy water falling down with great force. We had decided to make Shillong our base and do day trips from there to the nearby places of interest.

Drive to Asia’s Cleanest Village—Mawlynnong

I could see why self-driving is gaining popularity in Meghalaya—routes with broad roads, scant traffic and spectacular views of gorges and mountains. With faultless network coverage, using Google Maps is a dream here. We were on our way to Mawlynnong, known as Asia’s cleanest village. It took us 3 hours to reach the village. The parking lot was almost full with many tourists, like us, who were out on a day trip from Shillong. As I loitered around the village, I realised I could not see a single scrap of paper or any kind of trash lying on the ground. Each house had a beautiful flower bed in the front, with neat pathways leading to each entrance. Bamboo dustbins were almost everywhere. Few houses offered humble servings of rice, fish, potato and carrots. “Here, the betel plant, pineapple, black pepper, and many other local fruits are produced,” I could hear one of the tour guides shouting at the top of their voice to a group of tourists. One particular place of interest, along the route, is the Bamboo Sky Walk. Indigenously made by the village administration, this eco-friendly staircase-like structure made of bamboo, tree branches, and jute provides a beautiful view of the Bangladesh plains.

The Living Root Bridge

The renowned living root bridges of Meghalaya serve as the quintessential postcard-perfect images featured in every travel piece about the state. There are many scattered across the state that are designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Reaching most of them required a 4-5 hour trek, and a level of fitness that none of us had. However, for visitors like us, fortunately, there was a single-decker Living Roots Bridge just ten minutes away from Mawlynnong. These natural bridges were built over a period of 15 to 20 years by the local tribes. They make crossing rivers and streams much easier. The process involves intertwining the roots of a particular rubber tree (Ficus Elastica) on raised river banks.

Dawki River

Another popular spot in Meghalaya, the Dawki River, is near the Bangladesh border, and is about about 2 hours away from Mawlynnong. The river is known for its crystal clear water. I could see the river bed, the pebbles and the weeds clearly. The peace and tranquillity experienced here was unparalled. However, avoid visiting the place during monsoons or on rainy days as the water will be muddy. I also learnt that one should avoid coming here on a Friday. "This place is crowded on Fridays as people from Bangladesh throng here; Friday being a holiday for them," said Sangma, our boatman.

Drive to Cherrapunji - one of the wettest places on Earth

The next day we drove towards Cherrapunji. The topography kept transforming, and the landscapes became prettier with every turn. We saw magnificent ravines, cloud-filled gorges and multiple waterfalls on the way. Just 5 km before Cherrapunji is the 1000 ft high Nohkalikai Falls. I had never seen a pretty plunge pool at the end of any waterfall, and the aquamarine blue puddle made for a spectacular sight. A two-hour arduous trek downhill takes you to the base of the fall. We decided against it and instead settled for a packet of puffed masala rice from a local Khasi woman. There were other small stalls selling souvenirs, trinkets, jute hats and bells. All the vendors were women, indicating the matrilineal societal structure of the region.

Our next stop was Mawsmai Caves. They are one of the earliest discovered caves in the state. Unknown to many, Meghalaya has the highest number of cave systems in India. Cave tourism is on the rise and explorers are discovering new ones intermittently. The total cave passage discovered in the state is a staggering 538 km! I realised my fear of constrained spaces for the first time here. A few places are quite narrow and some quite low, though it's fairly easy to navigate the rest of it. The discomfort was worth it when I saw beautiful limestone formations, underground streams and several stalactites and stalagmites hanging from the dark roof. This road trip within Meghalaya was a dream come true. I had never liked being driven around in cabs and herded from one tourist spot to another. We stopped on our own accord to enjoy many breathtaking views of the surrounding Garo Khasi Hills, the verdant green valleys and the omnipresent waterfalls. A perfect holiday is one which is enjoyed on one's own terms and time.