A soulful sojourn in Uttarakhand

Walk the talk in Lansdowne

We leave the urban madness behind and drive past towering sal trees before eventually climbing up towards Lansdowne stopping en route for a breakfast of aloo parathas with a generous helping of butter at an unassuming but fantastic roadside dhaba.

Then we drove on the serpentine roads that led us to Lansdowne, which is home to the prestigious Garhwal Rifles Regiment. This quiet little town is spotlessly clean, picturesque and covered in silver fir trees. When it snows, it looks straight out of a fairy tale. After warming up with a cup of sweet-and-spicy masala chai, I go for a stroll through the woods. Soon enough, I arrive at the charming St Mary’s Church sitting pretty amid a lush pine forest. When I step inside, I'm pleasantly surprised to see that it has been converted into a museum with photos and sign boards depicting stories of pre-Independence.

As I continue onward, I come upon Tip N Top, a viewpoint from which to take in panoramic views of the gorgeous valley and the mighty Himalayas in the distance. Be sure to keep an eye on kids here as the railing of the viewing point isn't very stable.

I want to wander a bit more before ending the day, so I hire a taxi to visit the Tarkeshwar Siddhapeeth Tarkeshar Dham temple (about 36 km from Lansdowne). One look at the incredible pine and cedar forests surrounding the temple and I know, why it is called the most scenic temple in this area. The structure itself is not elaborate but the setting takes your breath away. There are no queues or chaos, just birdsong and the occasional chime of the temple bell. It is one of the most calming spiritual experiences I've had, in sharp contrast to other famous holy spots. I take this tranquillity back with me and stayed with me for the rest of the trip.

Live the village life in Almora

Next up, I wanted to experience the famed ‘pahadi’ hospitality in the quaint village of Almora. Setting off in the wee hours of the morning, we pass chir pine trees, dotted with pink-and-yellow creepers as we make our way down towards the plains, zooming past sunny, mustard fields before climbing up again towards the hills.

The homestay I’ve chosen is set amid steep terraced fields. When I arrive at the property, traditional slate houses come into view, which immediately piques my interest. The homestay owners tell me that the Kumaoni homes are made almost entirely of stone, slate and pine wood, which is abundantly available here.

The sun is high in the sky but not hot. So, I settle down on the grass and fish out a book from my bag. I love the sun warming my back. Before long, I'm sprawled out on the grass engrossed in my book when a red-billed blue magpie catches my attention. It perches on a tree behind me, preening patiently as I turn my camera towards it.

I take this as a sign to go for a bird-watching walk. The naturalist at the property leads me on an uphill trek that gives my calf muscles a good workout but rewards me with the sights of many feathered friends. We spot several flycatchers, parakeets, bulbuls, barbets and even an eagle.

If you enjoy walking, there’s so much to do here. You can explore the local villages nearby and chat with the locals over a cup of tea, or visit the beautiful Chitai Temple. Local legend has it that the presiding god Gollu Devta (an incarnation of Lord Shiva) fulfils the wishes of all his devotees. And when a wish is granted, devotees hang up a brass bell at the temple as thanks, which explains the hundreds of bells adorning the structure. It’s a beautiful sight.

As I walk out of the temple gates towards my taxi, I spot the manufacturing unit of SOS Organics. It is a natural cosmetics and organic health food company. The company employs women and offers flexible working hours so that they can maintain a balance between their family responsibilities and work. It was a humbling site to watch, pink-cheeked women donning headscarves and making handmade products. All the while giggling and gossiping. I bought enough soaps and candles that will last me a year and went back to my taxi.

I arrive at the homestay to be greeted by a spectacular sunset. The sky is painted with all hues of pink and there’s a delicious nip in the air. A bonfire is put together and I'm handed a steaming cup of soup. I am told that, dinner tonight will be a Kumaoni fest, which got me very excited. There’s bhatt ke dubke, a nutritious dal made with black soybeans, thechwani, a simple curry made from white radish and potatoes, mandua ki roti, which is made from ragi, and jangore ki kheer, a millet-based sweet dish. There’s also a lip-smackingly tangy bhaang ki chutney, which I’m assured has none of the psychotropic effects of bhaang as it is made from the seeds of the plant and not the leaves. Everything is delicious and, with a full and happy tummy, now I really want my bed.

The entire experience really made me consider moving to the hills. Since I can't do that, the best alternative was to make the most of my mountain getaway.

Experience the lake therapy

We set out bright and early the next morning for a shorter drive this time to Sattal. I am in search of solitude, so I've picked this lake over it's more popular neighbour Nainital. Sattal is just as pretty but lesser known. After tucking into the quintessential mountain snack, Maggi, I decide to go kayaking on the lake. The setting is just so lovely, I just can't stop rowing. Even though I know my arms will pay for it later.

Kayaking on the quiet lake surrounded by walls of hills. The murmur of pine trees and the sound of only my oars, slicing the water, made the pain worth it. I can not just get enough of these gorgeous mountain lakes so I decided to go to Bhimtal. I was awe to see that every lake is prettier than the last. I snag a seat at a lake-facing café, order myself a hot chocolate and got immersed in the calmness.

Bhimtal also has a Butterfly Museum showcasing over 1500 species of these delicate beauties. The private museum is in the home of Peter Smetacek, an authority on butterflies. His quiet sense of humour and charming manner enthralled me for the rest of the afternoon. He also runs a homestay on his estate for butterfly enthusiasts or for those who want to spend time at the colonial forest home. (www.theretreatbhimtal.in).

The walk back to my taxi amid majestic pine trees and incessant chirping birds returning to their roost got me sighing contently. The forest and the hills have been my constant companion throughout this trip. I feel both humbled and overwhelmed amidst these geological marvels. Before this trip, I was never able to choose if I'm a mountain or a beach person, However, this trip has been an eye-opener. While the waves of the sea relieve my anxiety, it is these marvellous hills that soothe my soul and helps me rediscover myself.