Amazing Amritsar! A culinary delight that’s equal parts divine and delicious.

… First Stop, Golden Temple!

As I stepped inside the compound of Darbar Sahib, the cold floor sent shivers. But soon, the radiant glow of the structure snatched my attention in an instant. Given the time of the day, the place was crowded, which made me wonder what the scene during the day would be like. After I visited the shrine, I sat near the pool in awe of the shrine. Amidst the crowd, I could feel my thoughts and tiredness clear out. And in minutes, I was at peace. In an hour or so, the morning light cut through the dark night and I could see the sky turn into fiery orange colour. Sunrise at the Darbar Sahib is an experience words can hardly do any justice.

As we stepped out knowing we had to be here tomorrow for the langar, the first eatery on our card was…

…Beera Samosa Wala.

While the name gives it away that the place is famous for samosas, however, we wanted to try out something else. Situated only a stone’s throw away from the shrine, Beera Samosa Wala is known for its unique dish called Satpura. Crispy, flaky like patties and stuffing of potatoes and aromatic spices, Satpura is a must have when you visit Amritsar. The dish is basically a deep-fried version of everyday patties served with spicy potato gravy and sweet & savoury sauce. Rishy & I devoured them in minutes and headed to our next spot.

Next on the plate was…

… Kartar’s Pehlwan Kulcha.

Amritsar is famous for its Kulchas (Baked Indian Flat Bread). A staple for the locals and a must for all travellers - the authentic version of this dish from Amritsar has been on our list for years now. So, the first thing we did after gulping down Satpuras was head towards Kartar’s Pehlwan Kulcha for some lip-smacking Chole (Chickpea Curry) and kulchas.

Pehlwan Kulcha is famous for its authentic taste and fresh ingredients used that the outlet has been able to maintain for almost a century now. Kulchas are stuffed with a generous mix of spices, chopped veggies and dry fruits. Once flattened out, the spice mix is added on the top again & then sent to the tandoor (clay oven). The bread is then cooked until charred. Once ready, this flatbread is then bathed in a sea of butter. In order to maintain the balance in the dish, the chole is cooked in mild spiced gravy. With the first bite, there was an explosion of flavours in my mouth. The decked-up kulchas were a great compliment to Chole. Once, we were done with the delightful experience at Kartar’s Pehlwan Kulcha we headed to our hotel room.

After a quick nap, we arrived at…

…Kesar Da Dhaba.

While we have had our hit and trials with Makki di Roti (corn flour bread) & Sarso Da Saag (Mustard Leaves) at home, the idea was to get the authentic experience from an authentic town. After checking with the receptionist at our hotel, we found ourselves at a table in Kesar Da Dhaba. We ordered a plate of Makki di Roti & Sarso Da Saag and another hot favourite – Chole Puri (Round fried Indian bread served with chickpea curry). In minutes, our table was filled with a plate of each of the winter staples.

As we dug deep, I found Makki Di Roti to be extremely soft & filling. The corn flour bread complimented the thick & creamy mustard leaves concoction in ways only tastebuds can explain. On the other hand, the chickpea curry was extremely flavourful despite the mild spice levels. From the two places I have been to, I can see a trend here. Unlike other places in North India, where curries in local eateries are over-flavoured, the spice levels in the curries served here are mild - it is contained and controlled and one can appreciate the dishes in their true form.

We ended the day with one of the must-haves in the city – Lassi at…

…Gian Di Lassi.

A quick Google search landed us at the century-old Gian Di Lassi. Apart from the classic lassi, this iconic place offered something called Peda Lassi. It piqued my interest and I ordered one for myself. What they do is take a couple of Peda, a traditional Indian sweet, and then churn it with ice to extract its butter. Then they mix the freshly churned butter with water, thick velvety yoghurt and sugar to make one of the finest lassis I have had to date. If you are in Amritsar, then this place is a must-visit.

The next morning, our agenda was clear - When in Punjab, eat like the Punjabis!

So the first thing we did was head to Darbar Sahib again. After we visited the shrine, we headed straight for langar (communal kitchen). The experience of having food at the langar in Golden Temple is so heart-warming. Regardless of their caste, class, gender, or religion, people from all walks of life sat on the floor, crossed-legged sharing the space. The experience of having a meal at Langar is extremely humbling. On Saturday morning, they were served hot rotis with a classic Dal Tadka. It is amazing to see how the shrine can feed more than 100,000 people every day. The efficiency of the volunteers needs to be lauded here, as they get to check that every devotee gets to eat.

After our delightful experience at the Darbar Sahib, we headed to explore the non-veg options the city has to offer. The first place we checked out was…

…Milkhi Ram Di Hatti.

This place served Meat and rice but cooked in a very different manner. First, the chicken is boiled in spiced water. Once the chicken is done, the water is then used to cook the rice. The aromatic rice is then topped with piping hot mutton stew which is full of flavours. After a fulfilling brunch at Milkhi Ram Di Hatti, we stopped at…

…Gurdas Ram.

to devour some hot, crispy and deviously sweet Jalebis. The sweet Indian dessert is something you cannot miss when you are in Amritsar. Thicker than the usual jalebis, this deep-fried spiral sweet was extremely fulfilling.

As our food journey was on its last leg, we decided to have tandoori chicken at the famous…

…Billa Chicken.

The chicken was juicy and had the perfect amount of spice on it, making it one of the best versions of the dish I have ever had. As we were headed back to our hotel room, we spotted a stall selling a local speciality called Nutri-Kulcha. I couldn’t resist having this rich, thick, almost black-coloured spicy sauce covering the soya chunks. The soft, almost melting-in-your-mouth Kulchas paired extremely well with the spicy soya chunks. This one dish needs to be at every corner of every city in India.

Would it still be a food trip to Amritsar, if we don’t have the classic Amritsari Fish? The answer to this question was found at Makhan Fish and Chicken Corner. We found ourselves at the famous food joint & ordered the classic Amritsari Fish & Keema Kulcha. The fish was crispy and the soft, almost melting texture of the fish made it clear why the owners had named the place ‘Makhan’.

As we ended our trip to Amritsar, both Rishy & I were completely satisfied with the divine ambience the city had to offer. The only thing we completely missed is having a plate of Kulfa – thick chunks of milk based iced cream with Faluda (thin vermicelli noodles). The culinary treasures of this city have woven an unforgettable tapestry of experiences for us. From the spiritual solace at the Golden Temple to the delectable dishes spread across the city, Amritsar proved to be a city that not only nourished the soul but it delighted the tastebuds in every conceivable way.

Wondering how you can reach Amritsar?

The city of Amritsar is around 8-hour drive away from the National Capital. For people flying from different parts of the country, the city has an international airport called - Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport which is approximately 11 km from the city centre. For those who prefer the railways, you’d be happy to know that Amritsar is easily accessible from almost every corner of India via express and superfast trains. Amritsar Junction (ASR) railway station is right in the heart of the city. You can easily find transportation outside the station.