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What used to be my playground is now on everyone's bucket list
I never knew what the term ‘SoBo’ was until much, much later. Growing up in Colaba, this was simply home. Nothing more. Nothing less. There was a bustling vegetable market around the corner from my house. We walked to school every day, dodging street vendors on Colaba Causeway. Our pocket money was squirrelled away for weekend treats at Aga Brothers (their Frankies were the best in the city, bar none). Movie nights were at Regal or Strand Cinema and evenings were spent strolling down Apollo Bunder, where a brisk sea breeze snatched away at our words. For me, the SoBo trope simply didn’t exist.
Today, I don’t live in Colaba anymore. But I do make it a point to return there once a month to visit my mum, who still does. I also use that as an excuse to hit up my favourite Colaba haunts. Whether it’s yummy food, bargain shopping, or even just reliving the nostalgia of my misspent youth, Colaba keeps calling me back. And there’s no reason why you can’t come along with me for the ride.
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Once separated from mainland Bombay, the islands of Colaba and Old Woman’s Island (part of the seven islands of Bombay ruled by the Portuguese) were the refuge of sailors, traders, gamblers, thieves, and women of ill repute. The area was regarded as decidedly ‘rough’ and the British higher-ups and memsahibs rarely ventured over the creek. All this changed in 1838 when the two islands were connected to the rest of Bombay with a causeway made up of stone, mud, and timber. This simple stretch of land changed the very nature of the neighbourhood. Real estate prices tripled.
The who’s who of British society flocked to the cafes and dance halls that lined the seafront. As the years passed, Colaba maintained its air of gentility and sophistication. Even today Colaba retains the same air of exclusivity. And even though the houses are distinctly older and less shiny than the newer neighbourhoods in the city, there is an undeniable charm about Colaba that persists.
Located close to the southern tip of Mumbai, Colaba can be accessed in several ways. Here's a lowdown on the travel information:
By train: CSTM (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) and Churchgate are the nearest railway stations on the Central/Harbour and Western lines, respectively. Colaba is a 20-minute walk away from either of these stations.
By bus: Several buses ply to Colaba. Simply look for Colaba Bus Station/Colaba Post Office or Electric House as the final destinations on your bus.
By taxi: You can hire an app-based taxi to get to Colaba. Bear in mind that auto-rickshaws do not ply in South Mumbai.
From Mumbai Airport, it takes around 1.5 hours to reach Colaba by road, depending on the traffic conditions.
The metro link to Colaba is still under construction. Once it is up and running, it will offer easy connectivity to the area.
Pro tip: The best way to get around Colaba is to walk. There are bylanes and gullies with far more interesting shops and eateries than those on the main stretch of the Colaba Causeway.If I had to plan a day in Colaba for a friend who had never been (hello, friend), this is where I would take them. We would get an early start to the day at Sassoon Docks. The wholesale fish market here is one of the largest in Mumbai and one of the few open to the general public. At the crack of the day, more than 1500 boats head out to sea. They return in droves with the freshest catch. If you reach there around 6:30 am, you can witness the unloading of the trawlers and the local fishing community rounding up their wares for the day at the markets. No doubt, the experience can be overwhelming both in terms of noise and smell; so, be prepared.
A half an hour's stroll away from Sassoon Docks will get you to Apollo Bunder and the promenade leading up to Gateway of India as well as the Taj Mahal Hotel. The construction of the imposing structure of the Gateway of India was completed in 1924. What started as a commemoration of the visit of the reigning King George V and Queen Mary has now become a beacon for any tourist visiting Mumbai. Stroll around the park adjoining the monument, buy yourself a packet of roasted peanuts, and don’t forget the ubiquitous selfie with the arch of the Gateway behind you. You could even opt for a quick boat ride around the harbour to take in a completely different perspective on this slice of South Mumbai.
After spending time at the Gateway, hop over to the Taj Mahal Palace. Even if you are not staying there or dining in, it's worth a walk-through at the least. Marvel at the photographs of visiting dignitaries, movie stars, and royalty and admire the opulent interiors and architectural innovations – the famous floating staircase in the Palace Wing, for example, was the first of its kind when it was built. If you walk past the shoe shops and designer boutiques, you will reach La Patisserie. This is the bakery of the hotel and holds a special place in my heart for having one of the best chocolate cakes in the city. Go on and treat yourself to a slice before heading out into the crowds of Colaba again
There are restaurants, food stalls, cafes, street vendors, and bars tucked away in almost every nook and cranny in Colaba. These are my top 10 recommendations for every craving.
For a casual date or coffee catch-up - Smoke House Deli, Starbucks, Basilico
For after-work drinks or pre-movie bites - Leopold’s, Cafe Mondegar, Woodside Inn
For evening snacks - Kailash Parbat, Theobroma
For first dates / romantic rendezvous - The Table, Indigo Deli, Jia
For family meals - Ling’s Pavilion, Delhi Darbar
For the best view that won’t break the bank - Bay View Bar at Hotel Harbour View
For the tastiest comfort food - Churchill Cafe
For Sunday brunch - Kuckeliku Breakfast House
For late-night cravings - Bademiyan Kebabs
You can eat your way through Colaba from breakfast to midnight munchies. An ideal day spent in the area would include several stopovers for coffee, sugar cane juice (try the iconic Sahu Sannalal Gupta Juice Centre opposite Indigo Deli), and cocktails (there’s Colaba Social and the Harbour Bar for both sides of the spending spectrum). A word of wisdom though – plan a light lunch so that you still have the will to bargain hunt after your meal.
Everyone raves about the shopping and bargains at Colaba Causeway. While I don’t deny that the stretch can resemble an Aladdin cave of treasures at most times, it can also be very crowded and excessive. My best piece of advice would be to hit the street stalls around 11:00 am – not too soon after they open and way before the evening crowds throng the narrow footpaths. There are stalls specialising in junk jewellery, accessories, shoes, bags, and even handicrafts as well as curios. The name of the game is to always bargain. For specialised shops and boutiques, there’s Good Earth, Forest Essentials, Curio Cottage, and Miniso, besides a host of other branded labels and stores.
While the usual suspects for Colaba hotels include the Taj (both the Palace and the Towers), there are also other options, such as the Harbour View Hotel. With sea-facing rooms and newly refurbished interiors, the hotel is a steal considering the location and amenities. It’s heartening to see smaller, quirkier, more personal hotels starting to make inroads into the market and doing a darn good job while they are at it too.
One such hotel is Abode, in Colaba. Situated just around the corner from Regal Cinema and a hop and skip away from the Gateway of India, Abode is blessed in terms of location. Located on the first floor of a 115-year-old building (Lansdowne House), climb the sweeping wooden staircase, and you reach the welcoming doorway of Abode.
It's obvious at first sight that special care has been taken with the interiors of this place. Expect the ubiquitous exposed brick walls but in conjunction with salvaged old furniture, pretty frosted glass panels, colourful chairs and cushions, and the positively hypnotic patterned floor tiles. Abode is an ideal destination for the traveller looking for something different. For the backpacker in need of some pampering or for a staycation that offers you the best of both worlds, this place offers the luxury of a hotel and the comfort of a home. 10/10 – I would recommend it.
And that's Colaba for you in a nutshell. Chaotic and charming, this neighbourhood keeps calling you back with the promise of yet another hidden gem or crowd favourite. There's always something to spend your time or money on in Colaba – so go armed with a full wallet and a free day.
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