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Here's how I learned to slow down in the Coonoor Valley
A few years ago, after days of deliberation, we decided our trip to south India would be to Coonoor, a hill station in Tamil Nadu. This decision was largely met with incredulity since Ooty—only 20 km from Coonoor—was the more popular hill station. Choosing Coonoor attracted dire warnings such as, 'Oh, it’s a one-horse town. What will you do there for five days?' or 'Who stays in Coonoor when there’s Ooty around the corner?' Well, we were up for the challenge!
Smaller, less touristy destinations have always been my jam. I loathe crowds, the traffic, and the general sense of ‘being sold a place’ at any popular tourist hotspot. I have always stayed away from the madding crowd but ensured I am close enough to pop in and visit them on my own terms. Much like a well-meaning relative who comes to visit but doesn’t stay for too long. Coonoor, a small hillside town at 1,850 m above sea level, fit our modus operandi perfectly.
Let me set the stage for you. Both Coonoor and Ooty are hill stations in the state of Tamil Nadu. Ooty, also known as Udhagamandalam, was a bustling summer resort during the British Raj. It retained its allure and remained one of the country's top hill stations and honeymoon destinations. Its verdant green hills, scenic wonders, and colonial remnants gave its popular moniker, 'The Switzerland of India.' Coonoor fell along the winding route through the Nilgiris, leading to its bigger sister, Ooty. It’s no surprise that Ooty attracts close to 29 lakh visitors every year. Coonoor, on the other hand, witnessed fewer crowds.
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The main airport, Coimbatore, is about 70 km from Coonoor. Several flights depart daily from the Coimbatore International Airport, keeping the hill station connected to the rest of India. Once you have reached the airport, you can do as we did and book a private taxi to your hotel in Coonoor. Alternatively, you can make your way to Mettupalayam, an hour from Coimbatore by road, and board a train to Coonoor. This delightfully twee toy train is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway.
The smaller gauge train expertly wended its way through the narrower twists and turns in the mountains. The views of the Nilgiris enchanted us as we wound our way through the valleys and gorges. Pre-booking for this trip is a must. Don’t turn up with bags and baggage at the railway station hoping for a ride.
We had done our research when we booked our mini vacation in Coonoor. We were aware of our expectations which levelled our disappointments. Some R&R surrounded by nature and silence was obviously high on our to-do list. We had envisioned long walks to Sims Park and a trek to one of the many gorgeous waterfalls around the town. We also made space for a day-long excursion to Ooty to see what the fuss was about.
But Coonoor gave us all we were promised Ooty would be. We were pleasantly surprised to find our days packed with things to do, even in the sleepy little town of Coonoor. For the most part, we walked as much as we could. For longer trips, we hired a private taxi for the day. There are sightseeing tours and day trips you can book in advance. Several travel portals offer great deals for every budget.
The 'can’t miss' places in Coonoor include the viewpoints of Dolphin’s Nose and Lamb’s Rock. Half the fun was along the way to these vantage points. Our taxi swerved around hairpin bends and teetered over large swathes of green meadows. It was a miracle we reached our destination safe and sound. The waterfalls—Catherine Falls and Laws Falls—attract huge crowds throughout the year. The waterfalls also make for magnificent treks. You can easily club these with a picnic basket and spend the day at the top.
Sims Park was one of our favourite spots in Coonoor we returned to it every day. This park or botanical garden is spread over 30 acres and is home to almost 1,000 species of flowers and trees. Sims Park had perfectly landscaped gardens and paved paths wrapped around lush greenery. Even with many visitors that day, tranquillity permeated the park. It had enough secluded spots and quiet corners to gather your thoughts in peace. Don’t forget to visit the small lake within the park for boating. There is also a beautiful glass house with rare plants and flowers. Sims Park is open from 9 am to 6 pm, seven days a week. There is a small entrance fee and a surcharge if you carry a camera or video equipment.
Another holiday highlight was our visit to Acres Wild, an environmentally conscious and self-sustaining organic cheese farm and homestay jointly run by a family. They grew their food, reared animals, and sold their cheese. As a cafe owner and chef back home, there was no way I was missing out on visiting the farm during our trip to Coonoor. However, writing about it now feels bittersweet.
The farm is spread over 22 acres and is not far from the Coonoor bus stand in the main market area. There are ducks, bison, goats, geese and cows on the farm, along with a pond to try fishing. They also had adorable cottages. Who wouldn’t live in a cottage called Cheddar House?
They had many activities planned, such as bird watching, milking the cows, bread making, and of course, their popular cheese-making course. Although we couldn't stay long enough to participate in the two-day course, we did stock up on amazing gourmet cheeses.
But I fear it is not possible to revisit the fun. The Acres Wild website has a closed sign on its home page. Fingers crossed, I pray another Acres Wild finds a place nearby. Other sightseeing highlights in Coonoor included Wellington Golf Links, Highfield Tea Park, Rallia Dam and Ketty Valley. However, we merely passed by these attractions choosing instead to pass our time leisurely.
We stayed at Taj Garden Retreat in Coonoor, and I highly recommend it. The location is fabulous, with a panoramic view of the valley below. It’s located in the heart, making walking anywhere a breeze. The rooms are large with a distinctly colonial vibe. This feeling is only solidified when you retreat to their dining room with a roaring fireplace, vintage portraits and liveried staff. A definite throwback to a more refined age we embraced wholeheartedly. PS: the breakfast buffets are delicious and complete with local and western treats and endless cups of fragrant Nilgiris chai.
The best souvenirs are always edible; no surprises here. We stocked up on fudge and chocolate-dipped biscuits during our day trip to Ooty. We picked up cheese from Acres Wild farm and ended up with a bunch of small gifts for friends and family back home. Homemade honey, bottles of mulberry and pear jams, and packets of aromatic chai made it to our collection.
Beware of chai shops in tourist places. Many could be selling either adulterated or overpriced tea. There are little shops around the town selling exquisite needlecraft and embroidered linens, for those interested. The handkerchiefs and tablecloths were especially beautiful. Before leaving Coonoor, visit the Indian Bakery near the bus stand for local treats. Homemade cakes or flaky Varkey biscuits are the perfect accompaniment to your cup of Nilgiris tea.
We visited Coonoor in October. It was wonderfully pleasant, with cool days and deliciously chilly nights. While the summer months from April to June can be warmer, they offer the clearest views of the surrounding tea estates and valleys. There’s no wrong time to visit this quaint hill station and its surrounding attractions.
Give yourself four to five days to truly sink into the slower pace of life at Coonoor. Go for a walk every day, stopping only for cups of warm Coonoor chai. Potter around the market and pick up a few knick-knacks here and there. There is no rush. Time moves differently in the hills. It’s only right that you reap the benefits of this transformation.
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