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For a suburb that is just about 25 sq km in total, Bandra is quite the draw. Today, people gravitate towards it for its hipster vibe, pockets of old-world charm, and vibrant social spaces.
With a colourful past and an even more complicated present, Bandra offers a microcosm of the larger city of Mumbai. Bandra was where we met the family when I was younger. Sunday lunches and Bandra Feast visits justified the trek across town in those days. Today, after recently moving to Bandra, it feels like I’m discovering the neighbourhood in a whole new light. It is with this investigative spirit that I decided to dive deep into Bandra’s past to help me focus, with a fresh perspective, on my new home.
The story of Bandra can be traced back to 1530. Once a sleepy fishing village on the island of Salsette, Bandra was pretty much left to its own devices until the Portuguese arrived on the scene. Portuguese explorers and sailors came to Bombay to trade spices. However, when they reached here, they realised that their only recourse to getting what they wanted was piracy.
Since they had already mastered the fine art of battle using cannons and guns, they set up shop in Bandra and built several forts along the coastline to store their stolen goods and rest between raids. As a result, Bandra (or Salsette Island), along with the other islands that made up Bombay at the time, came firmly under Portuguese rule. Now to appease God for their nefarious activities, these pirates/rulers soon brought in Jesuit priests. As a fair barter for their past misdeed, the Portuguese handed the Jesuit priests Salsette island to rule (and convert the natives).
All was smooth until the British arrived. In 1661, Bombay was famously given off as part of the dowry to the English King. At first, Salsette was not part of this gift but after a 1775 treaty, it also became part of the British Empire. Not much changed in Bandra after that though. It continued to be a sleepy fishing village, pretty much left to its own devices. However, the Civil War in America changed the course of Bandra’s history forever.
With England’s increasing demand for cotton, and America not playing fair, India stepped in and saved the day. The East India Company was quickly formed and several private traders got into the act. These individuals later went on to form some of the biggest industrial families in India. At the time though, the British preferred that these upcoming families live at a distance – not too close but not too far either. The island of Salsette became the place to be for the who’s who at the time (not too different from today!). Bungalows were built, a town planning scheme was installed, bylanes and pathways were created and a pretty little suburb flourished.
The only hitch about living in Salsette/Bandra then was the difficulty in getting to mainland Bombay. Cue the Mahim Causeway, once this connecting road was built over the Mahim creek and Bandra got its railway station along the South Bombay–Thane line, there was no looking back. The suburb continued to develop and prosper with the rich quietly getting richer and more prosperous. And let me repeat, not much different from today.
As the years passed, Bandra attracted artists, politicians, and most importantly … actors. When Mehboob Khan set up his studio in Bandra in 1954, a host of film stars flocked to the area. Today, Bandra is still home to some of the biggest names in Bollywood and any city tour worth its salt will take you on a drive past most of their famous abodes.
And there we have the history of Bandra in a nutshell. Nearly 500 years of trading, piracy, Christianity, industry, wealth, and glamour neatly packed into just 25 odd sq km of city space. It’s no wonder then that a Bandra address holds a sense of allure, even after all this time.
Today, Bandra is packed with glitzy residential towers and the odd period bungalow which have managed to escape redevelopment. The roads are chock full of traffic at any given point of the day. You can't walk a foot without stumbling into a chi-chi restaurant or a mom-and-pop-run cafe. The nightlife scene is buzzing with clubs and bars in every nook and corner and the shopping is a mix of street fashion and designer boutiques. The sleepy island of Salsette has come a long way, baby!
So, where does one go if you want to experience the buzz of Bandra? Wonder no more…here’s a list of the must-see places the next time you are this side of town. Don't @ me for not including your favourites, this list is very much a work in progress and a cumulation of my discoveries over the past year of living in Bandra.
For a moment’s peace, head to Mount Mary Church – also known as Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount – atop a hill overlooking the Arabian Sea. The legend goes that Portuguese sailors found the statue of Mother Mary in a shipwreck and built a church around this holy relic. It is believed that making a wish at the Mount is bound to come true and the church attracts hundreds of visitors every day.
For a slice of living history, make your way down to Bandra Fort. Yes, the very same fort that was built by Portuguese pirates/invaders. Also known as Castella de Aguada or Waterfront Fort, it survives to this day as a brilliant example of architecture. Today, you can pack a wee picnic or just sit on the ramparts and enjoy the spectacular sunsets.
Speaking of sunsets and sundowners, there’s no better place in Bandra than the breeze-blown Bandstand and Carter Road Promenade. Both these sea-facing walkways have been beautified and pedestrianised for maximum appeal. It's the best place to enjoy a brisk evening walk, fortified with warm roasted peanuts and fresh coconut water. If you prefer your morning run with fewer crowds and fewer street dogs, head to Jogger’s Park at one end of Carter Road. With three types of walking/running tracks and an idyllic duck pond in the centre, it's a lovely place to burn off those calories.
For blingy jewellery and trendy clothes, there are no better shopping destinations than Linking Road and Hill Road. With fashionable footwear, handbags, and accessories, the stretch of Linking Road is crammed with boutiques and street stalls to suit every budget. For factory surplus clothes, evening wear, lingerie, textiles, and handicrafts, make your way to Hill Road. There are plenty of eateries and food stalls along both roads to address those mid-shopping hunger pangs as well.
For a blast from the past, Ranwar and Chuim Village are hamlets within the buzz of Bandra. Wooden roofs bow under the weight of bougainvillaea trees, cottages with wrap around verandahs and brightly coloured doors go back decades, and narrow pathways meander through these ‘modern villages’. If you would like to know more about Ranwar and Chuim, companies like Khaki Tours conduct walking tours through the area.
For your Insta-feed, don't miss out on the extremely photogenic Bandra Sea Link Road. While it's not open to pedestrians, a taxi or car ride will offer the most scenic views of the Mumbai coastline – unless of course, the smog has settled in for the day.
Thrift Store by Bombay Closet Cleanse for awesome pre-loved fashion at budget prices
A single visit to Bandra will only scratch the surface of this vibrant, multicultural, and dare I say it, trendy neighbourhood. It begs you to return again and again and discover something new with every visit. As time goes by, the place gets under your skin. You begin to stride through its streets comfortably. You know where the best deals are and which restaurant serves the best coffee, cake, and kebabs. Soon, people ask you for your recommendations and that’s when you know – you are finally home.
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