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My experience of travelling from Mahe to Gokarna while exploring the beaches of Konkan and Malabar.
“Mangalore Central, right?”
“Yeah," I said.
Finding an Uber from Mangalore Airport is difficult. So I was looking for taxis. I thought INR 600 was a high price for a journey between the airport and the railway station. I was in the middle of negotiating with one of the drivers. At this point, he introduced me to a girl who was doing the same. The girl asked me if I was travelling to the same destination. We hired a pre-paid taxi together.
“Is it your first time in Mangalore?” She asked me.
“No, this is the second time. I couldn’t explore Mangalore the last time I visited. So, this time, I plan to visit northern Kerala and maybe the coastline north of Mangalore too.”
“So, you have no plans? Just travelling on a whim!”
“Yes, that’s right!” I replied.
The girl introduced herself as Archana. She was travelling from Chandigarh to join the Indian Naval Academy in Ezhimala, Kerala. She worked as a trainer, teaching cadets how to use technical equipment.
“My job restricts me from keeping an Instagram account. It’s nice to know that you are into this creative field of travel writing and photography.”
Archana said her goodbyes to me at the train station. This is where my solo trip to India's southwest coast truly began.
I boarded the train to Mahe in a few hours. But before that, I enjoyed a tasty neer dosa and spent some time on the beaches of Mangalore.
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The North Bengre Beach in Mangalore is a stunning sight, with pristine white sand and crystal-clear blue waters. The beach is flanked by coconut trees and provides a great view of the horizon. The breeze from the sea is refreshing and creates a relaxing atmosphere.
I took a ferry from the Old Mangalore port across the Gurupura River. I made my way to Bengre Beach, walking through a charming fishermen's colony. The beach was clean and deserted. Only a few children were present at this time of the day (or, rather afternoon). They were having fun flying kites. The beach was lined with shells and felt peaceful. But there wasn't much to do here. So, after taking some photos, I proceeded to another beach.
Located around 3 km north of Bengre Beach, Thannirbhavi Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in India. The sand is white and soft, and the sunsets are breathtaking. The sea is a stunning shade of blue that shimmers in the sunlight. The waves are gentle and calming, and there is never any litter on the beach.
There are numerous activities available here, including fishing, swimming, sunbathing, and many others. There is also a local market on the beach where you can buy souvenirs. The street vendors here also sell fruits and snacks. As dusk fell, the beach grew crowded with families who had arrived here to take in the sunset. I also had a good time, soaking in the lively atmosphere. I took a ferry back to Mangalore at sundown. My journey to Kerala was about to begin.
My first stop was Mahe which is a small city bordered by the state of Kerala on three sides. It was a former French colony and is now a union territory of Pondicherry (now known as Puducherry). Pondicherry is made up of four former French colonies that are geographically separated. Because the town is so small, it doesn't take long to get to the Mahe harbour from anywhere in town.
I visited Tagore Park which is the town's most popular attraction. The park is situated at the confluence of the Mahe River with the Arabian Sea. Named after Nobel Prize-winning poet and writer, Rabindranath Tagore, this park is a tranquil spot where visitors can relax and enjoy the beauty of nature.
The Mahe Harbour is located right next to Tagore Park and is a great spot for fishing and other aquatic activities. It is also an excellent place for viewing local wildlife, such as dolphins, fish, and turtles. There are also many restaurants in the area that serve a variety of local dishes. Couples from nearby towns in Kerala appeared to enjoy the promenade, with its beautiful views and lip-smacking street delicacies.
I continued my journey the next morning and disembarked at Bekal Fort Station. The rail tracks run parallel to the sea for 100 to 200 metres here. I have to say the views were breathtaking and soothing to the eyes. I soon arrived at Bekal Fort after walking all the way along the beach.
If I were to tell someone about Bekal Fort, the first thing that comes to mind is the iconic song Tu hi re from the Hindi film Bombay. The song was shot in Bekal Fort, giving viewers expansive views of the picturesque ruins. The fort itself offers a panoramic view of the city dotted with coconut trees and the azure waters of the Arabian Sea.
In the evening, I visited Kappil Beach. This is the most popular beach in Bekal owing to the popular resorts around. The Kappil river forms a backwater here which is a beautiful sight to behold. The Taj Bekal Resort is situated next to and overlooks the backwater. At sunset, you will see many honeymoon couples on the beach.
Following my visit to Bekal, I decided to return to Karnataka. From Kotikulam to Mangalore, I took an early morning train. Then I boarded a bus from Mangalore to Udupi and arrived in Malpe.
Malpe beach is a stunning stretch of sand located in the Udupi district, in Karnataka. Hemmed in by lush green palm trees, the beach has spectacular views of the Arabian Sea. It is a well-known fishing port as well as a popular tourist destination.
The golden-sand beach boasts some of the most spectacular sunset vistas. The beach also has a beautiful lighthouse, and the view from the top is a must-see for any beach enthusiast. Boating is another popular activity in this area, and visitors can take boat tours to explore the nearby islands. Be sure to check out St Mary's Island which is popular for its unique rock formations.
Malpe was the busiest and most commercial beach I visited. However, it was much cleaner than I had anticipated. The beach is fairly wide and flat, which makes it ideal for relaxing with family and friends. The beach is lined with street vendors selling seafood. I had a delicious ghee-roast calamari squid with neer dosa here. I also went shopping for beachwear. I resumed my journey the next morning — this time I was headed for Gokarna.
Kudle beach, situated in the mystical town of Gokarna, is one of the most beautiful coastal areas in India. The beach has a picturesque view with its long stretches of white sand, lined with coconut trees and surrounded by lush greenery.
I arrived in Gokarna in the afternoon and found a hostel with a view of Kudle beach. The view was gorgeous as I soaked in a bird's-eye view of the shore. The beach is only a few metres away from the Mahabaleshwar Temple. It was the Shraddh season (according to the Hindu calendar) when I was in town. It is a time when many devotees flock to Gokarna to take a dip in the sea. However, I didn't want to be in a crowd, so I decided to stay put in my hostel and enjoy nature.
In the evening, I headed out to Om Beach, Gokarna. The beach is popular because of its shape that appears to look like "Om" when seen from the cliff toward its south. The seashore is lined with tropical palm trees, rocky cliffs, and white sand. Many solo travellers love this place because of its tranquillity.
In the evening, travellers gathered on the beach to play volleyball and with frisbees. I, too, decided to join them. The games lasted until the last ray of sunlight.
The following morning, I drove to Mangalore to catch my return flight. Thus, my beach-hopping trip through Kerala, Pondicherry, and Karnataka came to an end. It was indeed a surreal experience to witness India's marine beauty.
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