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Find out why the Garden City is a Mecca for bibliophiles
Way back in 2009, I made a trip to Bengaluru. I don’t remember much about that short break, except that it was post-Christmas, deliciously cold, and we ate a lot of great food. The one thing I do remember, in vivid detail, is the first time I stepped into Blossom Book House. I remember how my hair stood on end upon witnessing rows upon rows of books: paperbacks stacked higgledy-piggledy, coffee table books used as makeshift coffee tables (see what I did there?), and comics stuffed into every corner.
My heart exploded! I ended up returning to Blossom three more times that trip alone. A few months later, I returned to Bengaluru with my bookworm daughter and an empty suitcase, with the sole intention of raiding Blossom. Let’s just say that excess baggage was paid for on that trip. Worth every penny!
I’ve travelled to Bengaluru several times since then and, even during the briefest of trips, squeezed in a dash to Church Street and the bookish wonders it holds. I soon discovered that Blossom was not the only holy grail of bookshops in the city. On Church Street, and around Garden City, several bookshops catered to every book nerd’s wishlist. I made it my mission to discover more and more of these gems with every trip I took.
There are several theories about the rapid multiplication of bookshops in Bengaluru. Some attribute it to the rising middle class, others insist that the city’s many educational institutes and large student population have something to do with it: there are murmurs about the IT boom causing the resurrection of reading, but no one pays much heed to this theory.
I, on the other hand, don’t care much for the numerous whys; I'm more interested in the where: Where will I find that second-hand copy I’ve been looking for? Where can I get the best bargain? Where will I be able to spend hours nestled uninterrupted with a stack of books? These are the answers I need.
We begin with the 'big daddy' of bookstores: as you leave the metro at MG Road and walk towards the ever-bustling Brigade Road, you can’t miss the imposing structure of the city’s oldest bookshop - Higginbothams. Established in 1905 as a sister store to the original Higginbothams in Chennai (touted as the oldest bookshop in India), the bookstore was the talk of the town.
MG Road was then known as Victorian South Parade Road, and as the name connotes, it was the place to see and be seen. While MG Road today may have paled in terms of glamour, Higginbotham’s continues to draw crowds. The three-storey edifice remains a testament to the fact that books and reading still flourish.
The store recently underwent a complete upgrade and now boasts a compact cafe, a dedicated children's and young adult section, and a whimsical cerulean blue ceiling painted with clouds and birds. There are books for everyone here. So whether it's manga or Michael Crichton that gets you going, head on down and be amazed.
After MG Road and just before getting lost in the shops and mini-malls that line Brigade Road, take a turn onto Church Street. A 750-metre stretch parallel to MG Road, Church Street, underwent a complete facelift a few years ago.
Today, vibrant street art and murals liven up drab commercial buildings while food stalls and gift shops joust for your attention. Named after St. Mark’s Cathedral (which stands at one end of the street), a walk down Church Street is a lovely way to spend a morning. Don’t forget to pop into Third Wave Coffee for a fortifying espresso before diving into the real attraction - the bookshops of Church Street.
Just opposite the colourful metro station is The Bookworm. From the outside, the store looks disconcertingly modern. I step into the neon green entrance with a fair bit of trepidation, sure that I am walking into another giftshop-masquerading-as-bookshop. Thankfully, my fears are put to rest almost immediately. While the front of the store is spiffy with all the usual rom-com, teenage angst titles and self-help books, the real treasure awaits deeper.
Turn a corner and the modern world fades away: bookshelves groaning with tomes, stacks of novels ready to trip you up, and stools and benches placed for optimum escapism! I found a couple of impossible-to-find detective fiction novels for my murder-mystery-loving mother, older edition sci-fi titles for the husband, and a joyful plethora of old-school Enid Blyton for the kids. The Bookworm ships to wherever in the country you are, so if a lot of shopping is what you plan to do, never fear!
We moved on, wonderfully burdened with bags full of books, to my favourite place in Bengaluru - Blossoms Book Shop. There are now two Blossoms on Church Street: the original, and a second outlet above Matteo Cafe. While the newer store seems more extensive and more organised, the dusty, jam-packed original Blossoms is where my heart lies.
Mayi Gowda, the owner of Blossoms, is a well-known name among the city’s literary circles. An engineer turned librarian/bookshop owner, Gowda is determined to infect all those who enter his stores with a love of books. Blossoms has a buy-back policy, where you can return your books and buy more at a discount - a popular option among the locals.
Blossoms boasts a vast range of books in every genre you can think of. There are rare and first-edition titles, comic books and graphic novels, pre-loved romance novels, popular non-fiction, and a children’s section filled to bursting! Be warned your day can slip away from you as you tunnel through the book stacks. I also recently discovered that Blossoms has an online shopping site - a very dangerous discovery indeed.
My most recent addition to the must-visit bookstores is Champaca. I first came across Champaca during the pandemic. I read about their book subscription service and loved it: every month, Champaca chooses a theme and sends out a curated novel, and maybe a companion one, along with a postcard or stationery from local artists. I thoroughly enjoy this unique opportunity to read books I may never pick up.
Not too easy to find, this independent, women-run bookstore is nestled on the first floor of a bungalow on Edward Road. Surrounded by swaying branches, Champaca has a distinct feel of a magical treehouse. A tiny cafe offers juices and home bakes (the quiche was delicious), and there’s an adorable children’s corner/lending library tucked away in a corner.
By and large, you are left to your own devices and can while away the afternoon browsing, reading, and collecting a satisfying stash of titles, from cookbooks and historical, to take home. I hear from friends that Champaca also arranges indie film screenings, workshops, and music evenings at their gorgeous little space, so definitely check them out and support this local cultural movement.
There are several more independent bookshops on Church Street and around the city that I haven’t yet visited but are much-lauded. There’s Goobe’s Book Republic, known for its collection of second-hand books.
This basement store, I am told, stocks some esoteric titles and a gorgeous collection of cookbooks. There’s also The Bookhive if you are looking for classics and first editions. Gangarams is known for its collection of textbooks, academic guides, and fiction. These have been added to my must-visit list for my next trip to Bengaluru.
My friend, who shares my obsession with books and bookshops, summed up our love for the bibliophilia in the city perfectly, “If Paris has Shakespeare and Company, Bangalore has Blossoms." The managers at these bookstores are always helpful and are game to help you find every obscure title on your reading list.
Church Street has several stores that display a curated selection of books to lure you in, and you almost always walk out with more books that you can read or carry. That’s something I haven’t experienced in any other city in India for sure: a city that welcomes and comforts readers like no other.
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