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A tale of Varanasi’s magical blend of traditions during the festive season.
As I strolled along the ancient ghats of Varanasi with my parents on Christmas Eve, a sense of tranquillity enveloped us, contrasting with the bustling preparations for the upcoming Christmas and New Year celebrations. It was quite fascinating to see the spiritual aura of the city blending seamlessly with the festive spirit of Christmas.
My parents and I decided to visit Varanasi after a unanimous decision to explore the ‘oldest city’ in the world. And this isn’t unusual for us; for the past decade, we have been exploring different parts of the country to welcome the New Year. It started back in 2013 when we decided to explore Chakrata in Uttarakhand. From spotting Tigers in the jungles of Bandhavgarh, MP to seeing the Himalayas turn into a snowy winter wonderland at Rohru in Himachal, we three are always game for new experiences. So, when it came to welcoming the New Year 2024, my parents expressed their desire to explore the spiritual city of Varanasi. With the holy city on my travel list for years now, I booked the tickets without wasting any moment.
We arrived in the evening and without wasting any moment, I took a stroll on the ghats of Varanasi. Looking over the curves of the river Ganga, I saw the sun dip below the horizon, casting a warm glow on the river. As the sun set and the cold winter night engulfed the city, I found myself drawn to the vibrant markets lining the narrow streets. My parents and I walked into the market where the stalls adorned with twinkling lights showcased a fusion of traditional Banarasi silk and Christmas decorations, a testament to the harmonious coexistence of diverse cultures in this sacred city.
Known as the ‘spiritual capital’ the city of Varanasi stands as a symbol of mysticism & calm. As I was exploring the city with my folks, I couldn’t help but admire different facets of Kashi and wondered, when did this love for Varanasi start?
It was clear that my fascination with the holy city of Varanasi started at an early age. Growing up, it was the Satyajit Ray classic - ‘Aparajito’, which introduced me to the city of ‘ghats’. The director showed the city in its raw, unabashed form, which struck a chord with me. I want to explore the ancient temples, get acquainted with its history and get lost in the labyrinth of lanes this city has to offer. And like every soul who visits Varanasi, I, too, wanted to spend the evening on a ghat and get mesmerised by the captivating Ganga Aarti.
Wandering through the alleys, I stumbled upon a quaint shop where locals and tourists alike were picking out candles and festive trinkets. The elderly shop owner greeted everyone with a warm smile. I spent some quality time there as he shared stories of how Varanasi welcomed the holiday season with open arms, embracing the joyous spirit of Christmas and the anticipation of a new year.
On Christmas morning, we decided to pay a visit to St. Mary’s Church near Patel Nagar, in the cantonment area. As I was walking towards the church, I couldn’t help but notice the church being modern despite being almost 2 centuries old. After that, it was time for us to explore various delicacies the city has to offer.
Our first stop – Ram Bhandar. Tucked away in the narrow lanes of Thatheri Bazar, we stopped for some mouth-watering Kachodi-Sabzi served with sweet and sour sauce. Working nonstop since 1887, this small yet highly functioning outlet will invite you with its aroma of spices & desi ghee lingering on the streets leading up to it. While the house-grind spice blend and strong flavour of devil’s dung made the Sabzi stand out, it was the crispy-on-the-outside and soft-on-the-inside Kachodis that tied the dish together. And sweet and sour sauce ensured a rollercoaster of flavours in the mouth. As I saw hot Jalebis being dipped in saffron sugar syrup, I couldn’t resist and helped myself with two servings of hot & piping Jalebi.
On our way out to the main street, we chanced upon another small outlet called ‘Shri Ji’. This small shop had a huge iron pan in front, which was topped with Malaiyyo. Served in a clay pot called Purva, this saffron-flavoured milk cream was simply out of the world. With the first bite, I could feel the fluffy, rich, creamy texture of Malaiyyo simply melting away in my mouth. By the time I was done, the small outlet was covered with a sea of crowd all wanting a thick cup of Malaiyyo.
Another must-have for any visitor is authentic saffron & mixed-fruit lassi from Blue Lassi Shop. Wondering how the name came to be? The shop owner shared that a few years ago, a South Korean girl visited Varanasi and came to his shop for some lassi. She loved the drink so much that in one of her blogs about the city, she mentioned the lassi but forgot the name of the shop. The only thing she could recall was the blue coloured walls – so she called the name Blue Lassi Shop. Soon enough, the blog became popular and people started visiting Varanasi looking for Blue Lassi Shop.
If you are in Varanasi, another must-have is Malai Toast & Tea at Laxmi Chai Wala. In the by-lanes of the market, you can find yourself sitting at Laxmi Chai Wala for a hot cup of milk tea served in Purva. The golden brown bread toast, charred directly on the simmering heat of charcoal brings an authentic experience like no other.
The ghats came alive as the sun set down on December 25th, the flickering candles and the sweet melodies of carols echoing through the air. Pilgrims and travellers gathered at makeshift stages for cultural performances that seamlessly blended classical Indian tunes with the enchanting notes of Christmas carols. The confluence of cultures became a visual spectacle, as the ghats sparkled with the glow of lanterns, reflecting off the sacred river.
The spiritual energy in Varanasi can infuse you with a sense of renewal and positivity. The following few days, leading up to New Year, we explored almost everything the city had to offer.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple: One of the must-visit temples in Varanasi is Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple has beautiful architecture with intricate carvings on every pillar and wall. The temple will allow you to immerse yourself in the aura and serenity the city has to offer.
Boat ride on the Ganges: The view of the ghats is exactly as beautiful as it is shown in movies and shows. And one can experience the same with a boat ride by the Ganga River. During winter months, the river is calm, so you can simply glide over & witness the morning rituals at vibrant ghats.
Sarnath: On the outskirts of Varanasi lies Sarnath. After attaining enlightenment, it was in Sarnath where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon. You can either roam among the ancient monastery or check out the majestic Dhamek Stupa.
Ramnagar Fort: Bang opposite Tulsi Ghat sitting on the bank of the Ganges, this Rajputana architecture packs a story waiting to be told. This is a must-visit when you are in Varanasi.
It was beautiful to see the city of spirituality turn into a dome of prosperity on New Year. As the clock struck midnight, the skyline illuminated with fireworks, symbolizing not only the end of the year but also the beginning of new possibilities. The city bathed in the soft glow of a thousand lights, radiated a sense of unity and shared joy, transcending religious and cultural boundaries.
The transition from Christmas to New Year brought renewed energy to Varanasi. Locals and visitors flocked to the ghats to witness the first sunrise of the year; a ritual believed to bring blessings for the months ahead. Pilgrims, clad in colourful attire, offered prayers, creating a vibrant tapestry against the backdrop of the ancient temples and river.
As I bid farewell to Varanasi, my parents and I carried with us the memories of a unique celebration that seamlessly wove together spirituality and festivity. The city, with its timeless charm, had once again proven that in Varanasi, every celebration, whether rooted in tradition or imported from afar, finds a place to coexist in harmony along the sacred Ganges.
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