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This is your ultimate guidebook for Chennai Music Festival
Every year, the city of Chennai turns into a melting point of culture, music & dance during the month of Margazhi. From mid-December to mid-January, the city of Chennai opens up to music & dance lovers from all over the country for the Chennai Music Festival. Given the religious significance of Margazhi among South Indians and the pleasant weather in the region, the city serves as a perfect place to host the music festival, where, at least 7,000 performers come to participate. If you are an ardent Carnatic music buff and want to witness all the enchanting performances live, I have created this one-stop-destination for you. So, here’s everything about the Chennai Music Festival & what you need to know before planning your trip.
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Chennai Music Festival is among the most awaited cultural events in the south of India. The festival aims to provide a platform for young artists & veterans to showcase their musical dexterities and talents to a large audience. In the initial years, Chennai Music Festival was called the Madras Music Season. I met with Rajesh Murugan, a local artist manager who enlightened me that the festival was first organised in 1927 & was held in concurrence with the All India Music Conference across various cultural organisations in Chennai. As I was talking to him, he informed me that in order to put it all under one roof, Sir CP Ramaswami Aiyer inaugurated the Madras Music Academy on the August 18, 1928, at the YMCA Auditorium of Madras (present-day Chennai).
Cultural organisations or 'Sabhas' are responsible for moderating all the performances at the Chennai Music Festival. Many of these Sabhas host free concerts for the morning and afternoon slots & the evening slots are usually ticketed. One of the most popular places to be is the Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan at Mylapore. I usually head there as many famous artists perform at Bhavan. I’ll recommend that you must read about which hall and sabha are holding which concert so that it is easy for you to plan your day. Bhavan is usually crowded so don’t feel disheartened if you don’t find a spot there. Here is a list of 'Sabhas' that are revered for organising concerts in the Chennai Music Festival:
All the Sabhas have been working hand-in-hand for decades to expose the world to the greatness of Carnatic music, dance and drama. It is a must-visit for all the connoisseurs of art in the world. If you are in Chennai during Margazhi then you are in for a treat and will surely not be disappointed.
Back home, my morning usually starts at 9, but during the Music Festival, I like to start early. That’s because most of the concerts at popular Sabhas start at 8 am, and the slot is allotted to the senior artists who spell magic on the stage. The mornings are the best time to start afresh as there’s hardly a huge crowd. Other than performances, many veterans conduct lectures that will teach you a thing or two about Carnatic music and its different aspects. After the concert, don’t be surprised to find yourself at a canteen savouring some fluffy idlis or crispy vadas. Good food and great music make the best combination ever. Even if you miss the morning shows or coffee, you will still have many musicians and food options to explore. Quick tip, the mid-morning concerts are crowded so you can explore some of the hotspots of Chennai. But make sure to find your way back for some unique post-lunch Kutcheris as the crowd is very small during this time, and you can witness all the young artists up close. Usually, these performances are held in the mini halls of numerous big Sabhas. For the evenings, getting tickets for the 7 pm concerts at the Chennai Music Festival will be next impossible. However, I suggest, you should try your luck and make a booking in advance. But even with a ticket, make sure to reach the venue early so you can get to your seat without hassle.
For aspiring musicians, Chennai Music Festival is an ideal place to showcase their talent. In one of my conversations with the artist manager Rajesh Murugan, he revealed that if a young artist can deliver some successful concerts at the Margazhi, their career can change for the better within a week or two. This made me wonder that the popularity of the set aside, this quick recognition and rise in stardom attracts a lot of budding Carnatic musicians to the festival. And every year, there’s been an exponential growth in the performance venues, which has opened up more opportunities for artists to show their talent to the world.
There are a numerous ways to reach Chennai, it all depends on where you are coming from. For me, a Tamilian born in Mumbai, I prefer train journey. But for folks with time crunch can always rely on flights. And for those who live near Chennai, the highways leading up to the city is one of the finest. Bottomline is no matter where you are coming from, there’s a way to reach Chennai.
By Air: Chennai International Airport is one of the busiest airports in the country and is situated around 20 km away from the city centre. The Kamaraj Terminal here is dedicated to all domestic flights. It will take you approximately 45 minutes to get there from the airport. Fast-track taxis to the Central Station will cost you somewhere around Rs. 500.By Rail: There are three railway stations in Chennai. They are Tambaram, Egmore and Central. They are well-connected with all the major towns and cities of the country. I like train journeys, hence I never miss an opportunity to travel with the Indian Railways.
Being a metro city, Chennai offers multiple accommodations ranging from luxury to affordable. But keep in mind that during the Chennai Music Festival, most hotels are booked in advance, therefore, prioritise & act accordingly. Here are a few recommendations:
The Leela Palace : Located near the Ayar river, is one of the top-end hotels you can consider staying in. Telephone number: 044-66651234. Tariff: Rs. 10,000 to Rs. 1,00,000.
Vivanta by Taj Connemara : It is one of the rare heritage properties you will find in Chennai. Telephone number: 044-66000000. Tariff: Rs. 8,500 to Rs. 45,000.
YWCA International Guest House : This one is a good option if you are looking for budget-friendly and cost-effective accommodations. Telephone number: 044-25324234. Tariff: Rs. 1,550 to Rs. 2,860.
Hotel Kanchi : My brother & I prefer to stay at Hotel Kanchi. Not only the hotel is budget friendly and cover all the basic amenities, it also centrally located making our commute to various Sabhas easier. Telephone number: 044-28271100/9000. Tariff: Rs. 1,300 to Rs. 2,000. The low-budget hotels and guest houses get booked very fast, so make sure you get your reservations done as soon as possible to avoid the last-minute hassle.
Unlike rest of the year, the month of Margazhi makes the city of Chennai a pleasant time to be. Hence, it is an ideal time to wear what you want & not worry about the humid weather. One thing to keep in mind is that you have to walk a lot during the music festival. With multiple performances happening at different Sabhas across the city, you will have to go from one venue to other. Sports/walking shoes should do the job, but water-resistant sliders can also work for you if you are comfortable with it. When it comes to clothing, there’s no restrictions on what you can wear to the festival, but the idea is wear something that is comfortable for you. For women attendees, Jumpers/rompers or skirts or the classic Demin & T-shirt combo can work wonders. For men, classic trousers or denims paired with cotton shirts is a must. But to really get in the groove of the music festival, my brother & I stick to traditional Indian attire. Cotton Kurta paired with comfortable denims & sliders is the attire we go with. Many women don easy-breezy Kurtis with linen pants or palazzos or go with sarees to celebrate the culture.
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