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Visiting the Bow Barracks, posing for selfies at Park Street and indulging in delicious treats are the best ways Calcuttans celebrate Christmas.
Kolkata is called The City of Joy, and rightfully so. A festive spirit pervades the air throughout the year. Not just the famous Durga Puja, but every occasion, big or small, witnesses above-par zeal and enthusiasm. So, it comes as no surprise that the holiday season in Kolkata is an absolutely magical time. Winter mornings in Kolkata are a joyful experience. Elderly men covered in wool gather around tea stalls to discuss sports and politics. Women are seen getting together for their daily morning walk. Children presumably like to sleep in on their holidays, but the grownups enjoy kicking around a football or breaking out the old badminton racquet. Come the week of Christmas, people begin stocking up on Dundee cakes and bottles of wine. The lanes are lit up with decorations. But there is more to the holiday celebration in Kolkata than just the lights and the cakes. When I was a kid, this was a particularly exciting time for me for me and not just because of the much-anticipated winter vacation. With Christmas came an extended stayover at grandparents’ and being pampered with great food and lots of free time to read, play, and explore the somewhat withered garden. It meant grandma’s delicious traditional winter treats like patishapta, dudhpuli, nalen gurer payesh, and mowa. It also meant a carefully curated hamper of chocolates that grandpa would leave near my pillow after I fell asleep on Christmas eve. Much time has passed, and so have the people who made the holiday season so memorable. Yet, the charm the city holds during the two weeks of Yuletide remains everlasting. If you’re in Kolkata during Christmas, here are some of the things you can indulge in.
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In the heart of Kolkata, just behind the Bowbazar police station, lies a hidden gem of colonial-era architecture—the Bow Barracks. Originally built as a garrison mess for the British and Indian armies during the First World War, the residences were later rented out to the Anglo-Indian communities after the British left India. Today, the Bow Barracks is home to around 132 families. Come Christmas time, the Bow Barracks becomes a hub of homely celebrations. The streets are adorned with twinkling fairy lights and cheerful Santa Claus cutouts, while the residents erect Christmas trees to bring the festive spirit alive. A Nativity scene, complete with a crib, is set up beside the grotto where the community comes together to offer their prayers. The Bow Barracks truly embodies the warmth and joy of the holiday season in Kolkata. Numerous events such as sports, games, musical performances, and philanthropic endeavours take place on different days of the celebrations. Some Anglo-Indian families also set up stalls where they display and sell handcrafted products and home-cooked dishes. You should consider yourself lucky if you're friends with one of the residents of Bow Barracks. An invitation on Christmas eve could be a great opportunity to try some of the best homemade wines, roasted meats, and cakes that you have ever tasted.
Once called Hogg Market after the British official who oversaw its construction, Kolkata's New Market is the ultimate shopping destination. For those who remember the time before malls and online shopping, New Market holds a special place in their hearts. Every year, with a couple of weeks remaining before Durga Puja, our extended family would rent a big car solely for the purpose of a visit to New Market. With countless shops within the old building and hawkers filling the streets, there is almost nothing that you won’t find here. From clothes, accessories, and jewellery, to exquisite art, home decor items, and electronics, New Market has it all. Whether you prefer branded stores or budget-friendly stalls, there's something for everyone. As any local will tell you, a must-do thing in New Market during Christmas is to visit the vintage confectionary shop, Nahoum and Sons. Founded in 1902 by Nahoum Israel Mordecai, a Jewish immigrant from Baghdad, this shop is till-date the most popular place for traditional pastry. Their fruit cake, made with nuts and dried fruits; fudge; and rum-soaked plum cakes are Christmas staples. But if you ask me, I’d say don't miss their marzipan, jam tarts, and handmade chocolates.
Park Street is the beating heart of Kolkata’s holiday celebrations. It plays host to the Kolkata Christmas Festival, also known as the Christmas Carnival. The event has been a mainstay in the city's festive calendar since 2011. With live music performances, church choir singing, spectacular lighting displays, and food stalls, Park Street draws throngs of crowds every year pouring in from all parts of the city. As a student of a college located on Park Street, I got the opportunity to see Park Street deck up the week before the holiday season kicked off. It was a rare backstage look at the extravaganza. I witnessed the gigantic Christmas tree beside the boulevard joining Allen Park with Camac Street getting set up with sparklers and candy canes. A jolly Santa Claus was always on hand for photo opportunities throughout the festive week. In 2021, the popular pop-up food vendors made a return after a two-year hiatus. Despite the recently-concluded pandemic, the festivities saw an all-time high crowd. Park Street is also renowned for its culinary offerings, which include some of the best restaurants, cafes, and pubs in the city. From Peter Cat and Bar-B-Q to Moulin Rouge and Magnolia, there's something to suit all tastes. But a visit to the pretty pink-themed Flurys cafe-cum-bakery is an absolute must-try.
Experience the charm of Christmas in Kolkata by taking a tour of its historic churches. The Nativity Scenes and festive decorations add an extra layer of warmth to the already magnificent churches. Although these churches are open to visitors throughout the year, the Yuletide celebrations see a huge influx of people. Some of the must-visit churches during Christmas include St. John's, St. Paul's Cathedral, St. Stephen's, St. Andrew's Kirk, Mission Church, Duff, Greek Orthodox Church, and the Portuguese Church. City-based heritage groups organise guided church tours to help visitors participate in the welcoming of Christmas at midnight on December 24th. The Roman Catholic St. Thomas Church is also renowned for its midnight mass.
Kolkata is a city that loves its food. On top of having delicious regional cuisine, the eating-out culture of the city is top-notch as well. Come Christmas, almost every little and big restaurant in Kolkata offers special menus to attract crowds. They are quite successful as well, as it becomes very difficult to find a table anywhere unless you arrive early. Head to Flurys to enjoy their traditional Christmas spread, buy a Christmas cake buffet at Mrs Magpie, or try your hands at the famous Chelo Kebabs at Peter Cat. You can also visit Mocambo for some unmatched continental delicacies or visit the historic Olypub. For those in the mood for Chinese cuisine, Tiretta Bazaar China Town, Tung Fong in Park Street, and Jimmy's Kitchen & Bar in New Market are popular choices. Meanwhile, those looking for authentic Bengali flavour can visit 6 Ballygunge Place or Oh! Calcutta. If you're a fan of Korean food, my personal recommendation would be King's Bakery Cafe in Jodhpur Park and Hindustan Park.
Many people use the Christmas season as an excuse to explore the nooks and corners of the city. You can take a ride on the Kolkata Connect Double Decker Bus and tour the heritage sites of the city, including colonial and post-colonial edifices. You can also experience the vintage beauty of Kolkata by taking a boat ride down the Hooghly River. As part of their Christmas packages, the state transport corporation of Kolkata has introduced a special tram and river cruise with live music to allow tourists and residents to enjoy the festive season to the fullest. Winter also marks the annual racing season at the Royal Calcutta Turf Club. However, getting an invitation to the races is not easy. Only members or their guests are allowed inside this exclusive establishment to witness the races.
Although far limited compared to Delhi or Mumbai, Kolkata's nightlife has a charm of its own. From clubs like the Tollygunge Club, the Calcutta Club, and the Bengal Club, to bars and lounges like Shisha, Tantra, Underground, and Roxy, each venue offers its best Christmas parties. For those not keen on exploring crowded streets or churches but still want to experience the festive atmosphere, these nightlife spots are worth checking out.
Kolkata is a place that runs on nostalgia but also welcomes the future with open arms. Anyone who visits the city finds themselves teleported back to a slower, softer, more laid-back time. The look of the cityscape is less-than-perfect, but its fabric is impeccable. Celebrations in Kolkata are heartwarming, and residents come together to soak in the festivities for Durga Puja, Christmas, and Eid-ul-Fitr alike. If you visit Kolkata during Christmas, do remember to check off all the aforementioned places.
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