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Don’t be a tourist, be a food traveller
Did you know that Rajasthan is the largest state in India? Known as the Land of the Kings, the Rajputana was home to several dynasties before the British. Their influence on every aspect of life is evident in the culture, lifestyle, and cuisine of the people today.
The desert climate impacts the way people live and cook here. Water scarcity in these parts pushed the locals to develop creative cooking techniques. Food was packed with spices to increase its shelf life. This and other unique methods give us the delicious Rajasthani food as we know it today. Every city has something special to offer. So join me on this gastronomical journey through Rajasthan!
The first thing I noticed while travelling through Rajasthan was the colour codes of the cities. Every city was identified by the colour in which it was painted. I hadn't seen this anywhere else in the country.
My food journey began in Jaipur where I decided to try the local snacks at Laxmi Misthan Bhandar. I started with a delicious Pyaaz Kachori – a crunchy puff pastry filled with onions, potatoes, and ground spices, served with tamarind chutney on the side. I would also recommend the Mirchi Vada, a stuffed chilli fritter. Don't worry, they aren't as fiery as they sound. They usually remove the seeds from the pepper.
Next, I headed to Masala Chowk to sample the Aam ki Launji, a sweet and sour pickle of raw mangoes. I also savoured the popular and healthy Karmi Vada, made from a batter of chana dal (split chickpeas), green chillies, onions, and spices, and served with a minty chutney.
For lunch, I recommend you begin with the signature dish of the state – Dal Bati Churma at Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar. The batis (wheat balls) are baked and served with dal (lentil curry made using five pulses) and a sweet churma (powdered wheat). Each bite melts in your mouth. The dish has a lot of ghee (clarified butter) that makes everything taste magical.
My next course was at the stunning 1135 AD. Set inside a majestic fort, this restaurant gives you the royal dining experience. I gorged on the Rajasthani Kadhi, a spicy yellow curry served with steamed rice. This dish remains a staple among the locals to date.
By now you must be wondering, 'Where are the famous Rajasthani meat offerings?' The royals took great pride in hunting various game meat, and recipes from those days are a mainstay even now. Mutton and chicken are popular and many of the original royal dishes can be tasted here.
I relished the Mohan Maas – a mutton dish rich in dry fruit. It is cooked in milk and cream and topped with cardamom and cinnamon. I'd suggest you wash it down with some tangy and refreshing jaljeera.
When you think of Rajasthani food, Laal Maas has to be the first dish that comes to mind. Here is a bit of history. The dish dates back to the 10th century when it used to be prepared during royal hunting expeditions. The king and his guests would travel in a large entourage, including the royal chefs. The game they hunted was sent back to the camp to be marinated in preparation for the evening feast, while the hunting party would return slowly on elephants. The highlight of this feast was Laal Maas.
Laal Maas, which translates to red meat, gets its name from the fiery red colour of the gravy owing to the red chillies in the recipe. Unlike the days of game hunting, tender mutton is now the meat of choice. The aroma and richness of the dish are indescribable. I ordered it a few times on my trip but my favourite was at a restaurant called Saffron in Hotel Nachana Haveli.
If the spice is too much for your palate, try the Safed Maas (white meat) instead. It is also a hugely popular and traditional dish prepped with milk, cream, curd, and cashew paste.
For those who do not eat red meat, Bhuna Kukda is a deliciously authentic alternative. A dish made from chicken marinated overnight in spices and cooked till it is tender, this delicacy is served with fresh coriander for garnish and is best enjoyed with steaming hot parathas (flatbread).
Vegetarians have a plethora of choices as well. I was surprised to learn that most of the locals were vegetarian. They have adapted much of what was readily available in the desert to create some of the most interesting food. Head over to Zoya Ka Zayeka and have their Gatte ki Sabzi. It's a dish that has gram flour (besan) dumplings filled with handfuls of nuts, deep-fried and cooked in gravy.
The City of Lakes, Udaipur, should definitely be on your list of places to visit in Rajasthan. I had the chance to visit Udaipur for a wedding and had the most memorable culinary experience.
There is a restaurant called Traditional Khana in Udaipur that serves the best Ker Sangri. It's made from ker, a wild berry that grows in the desert, and sangri, dried wild beans. This dry dish is prepared with raisins to add to the richness. Originally from the region of Marwad, this dish is best enjoyed with steamed rice and kadhi.
A summertime favourite of this region is Gunde ki Sabzi – made of gunde or gumberries. They are cooked in a spicy gravy consisting of mustard, chillies, and chopped raw mangoes.
Masala Chhach, a spiced buttermilk drink, is an integral part of meals in the summer. It is how I stayed cool in the warm weather.
Bajra, or pearl millet, is a staple food across Rajasthan. When you are in Jodhpur, you must try bajre ki roti, a flatbread served with lehsun chutney (a tangy garlic dip). It is a heavy meal and keeps you full when you are on the go.
Now for my favourite part of this culinary journey – the desserts! There are so many amazing options to choose from, it's impossible to taste them all in one trip. Here are a few of my personal favourites.
Mohanthaal: Also known as Besan ki Barfi, this sweet is made with roasted gram flour, sugar, and lots of ghee. It is served at most weddings and other important celebrations in Rajasthan and is one of my personal favourites.
Ghevar: This winter dessert is made from ghee, flour, paneer, and sugar and will be a delight for your sweet tooth.
Churma Laddoo: Wheat flour, jaggery and desi ghee are combined to produce this rich goodness. This dessert can be found almost everywhere.
Mawa Kachori: Kachoris can be sweet too. The mawa kachoris from Jodhpur are stuffed with sweetened milk solids (mawa) and crispy dry fruits and served hot.
Alwar ka Mawa/Kalakand: Milk, paneer, sugar, and dry fruits are cooked together to make Kalakand. This famous dessert originated in Alwar, Rajasthan.
So no matter which city you choose, Rajasthan has a lot to offer on the culinary front. It is a true treat for all the senses and is a must-visit for those who are looking for that life-changing trip.
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