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This once-quaint hill station has kept its tranquil essence, despite the growing population and tourism
When Ashu suggested we drive up to Coonoor, I was apprehensive. The last time I'd been there, more than a decade ago, Coonoor was just an obscure little hill station in Tamil Nadu. Back then, the place was blissfully free of 'travel bugs' – that's what I call the selfie-stick-wielding wanderlusters who trundle to popular tourist spots on the YOLO bandwagon. The Coonoor I knew was just a handful of quaint properties set against the backdrop of undulating tea gardens.
Cut to eleven years later, in the here and now, I was traveling to Coimbatore for work along with my colleague Ashu. He hadn’t been to Coonoor before and since we had a few free days, he suggested we book a self-drive to the place. I wasn’t sure if Coonoor would still be the same after 11 years, but I decided to try taking off my sepia-tinted glasses. 'Sure, let's go,' I told Ashu.
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As we reached the outskirts of Coimbatore, a middle-aged man in khakis stopped us. 'Please don’t litter anywhere in the mountains. Kindly dispose of all waste properly,' he said. Unsure what to make of this, I kept mum. A green tax was duly collected from us before we entered the Nilgiri region. This reminded me of North Sikkim, where each car is diligently checked for plastic bottles and containers.
Flat roads gave way to bends, and gentle hillocks started appearing in our rear-view mirror. Verdant hills rose in the distance and the roads grew steeper. Manicured tracts of tea plantations on either side welcomed us. The clouds hung over the view in a dream-like veil.
As we entered the town, our reverie was brought to a rude halt by bumper-to-bumper traffic. Buildings had mushroomed everywhere since my last visit. The marketplace was crowded with hagglers. Thankfully no high-rises yet, but a bus stand had cropped up right in the heart of Coonoor. I felt a predictable tug of sadness. My 'obscure little hill station' was no longer as I remembered it.
But my disappointment gave way to relief soon after we left the town centre. The familiar greenery of the outskirts embraced us, the mountain breeze cool and fresh against my skin. And as we approached our final destination, I knew this weekend would be perfect after all.
We had booked a beautiful property nestled amidst the tea gardens. Coonoor's lovely cottages blended nicely with the sloping terrain. Our property sat along a narrow road with tea plantations on both sides and a panoramic view of the Nilgiri Hills.
The next day, we woke before dawn for a rejuvenating morning walk. Dew drops glistened on the leaves as the sun rose. We met some plantation workers on our way. They always had smiles on their faces, the usual question 'had your breakfast?' ready on their tongues.
We ambled towards the Highfield Tea Factory to experience their legendary brews. 'If you are cold, tea will warm you, if you are too heated, it will cool you. If you are depressed, it will cheer you, if you are excited it will calm you.' These words by William Ewart Gladstone, former PM of the UK, echoed in my head as I took the first flavorsome sip. After paying a nominal entry fee, we entered the factory. The manager showed us how green, black, and white tea leaves are sorted, processed, and packaged – it's worth seeing!
The term 'park' doesn't really do justice to Sim's Park. It’s more like a jungle, spread across a whopping 12 hectares of land. Sim's Park is one of the biggest of its kind in Tamil Nadu. A picturesque maze of cobbled pathways, arched bridges, water bodies, rose beds, and French hydrangea patches, the park is every nature lover's dream come true.
Coonoor, and by extension Sim's Park, has a temperate climate. A large variety of flora from across the world is planted here. Regardless of the season, the park is always a blooming paradise – but it has a special charm in the winter.
Just wait for it,' I said. Beside me, Ashu was grinning from ear to ear.
We were leaning against a watch tower overlooking Lamb's Rock. Scattered clouds rushed up toward us from below. Standing there with our eyes closed, anticipating the moment the clouds would touch our faces – now that's what I call bliss! At Lamb's Rock, you're always standing above a carpet of white clouds.
The name holds an interesting story. No, a shepherd did not stumble upon this place with his lambs. Mr. E. B. Thomas, the Collector of the region during the British era, coined the name. He fondly named the place after Captain Lamb, a British officer who laboriously carved out the small trail that is still used to reach this lovely, treacherous spot.
With its sudden drop of 800 ft, Lamb's Rock is as deadly as it is beautiful. On my previous visit, there had been no protective barrier at the cliff edge. I learned that owing to a few tragic events, the place had begun to be described as the Suicide Point. Shuddering, I glanced again at the metal railings.
The names were getting to us – Lamb, Dolphin! Why on earth were all the rocks here named after mammals? Though Lamb's Rock has nothing to do with the actual animal, Dolphin's Nose is different. This rock formation jutting out from the mountain face actually looks like a dolphin's snout.
Dolphin's Nose is about 1000 ft above sea level and offers a stunning, unobstructed view of the rugged ravines on both sides. The higher reaches of the beautiful Catherine Falls glimmer in the distance. It's a good idea to visit Dolphin's Nose during the early hours of the day, so the landscape around you isn't blurred by the haze or fog.
The way to Dolphin's Nose is very scenic. The road first crosses a dense, cloud-covered forest, then gradually opens up to rich green slopes full of tea plantations. The expansive estates spread over waves of rolling hills all the way to the horizon, creating an incredible vista.
We found several breathtaking viewpoints around Coonoor. Lady Canning's Seat was one of them. The story predictably goes that a certain Ms. Canning frequented this spot to enjoy the mesmerizing view.
'I can understand why the Lady sat here. Do I look lady-like?' asked Ashu, striking a majestic pose. Being a true friend, I poked fun at his self-proclaimed nobility.
The Kodanad viewpoint is in Kotagiri, about half an hour’s drive from Coonoor. It offers one of the most spectacular vistas of Tamil Nadu. The Rangaswamy Pillar (400 ft), a protruding rock with a distinct shape, is visible from here. The panorama of the Nilgiri ranges combines with the tranquil atmosphere to create a powerful experience.
I think there's always something therapeutic about sublime vistas. We stood transfixed for a long time, admiring the scale and grandness of everything.
'Has Coonoor changed?' asked Ashu with earnest curiosity.
I wanted to say no. Sometimes you cling to the things you loved, holding on to the way they were, rejecting what they are now.
'Yes, it certainly has,' I replied – but I was smiling. Yes, the town center has evolved. There are crowds now, and increased traffic. But the green tax and local efforts help prevent littering. And the mountains still stand tall, the clouds still arch over them, the people are still welcoming, and the fresh tea from the gardens is still rich with flavour.
As we got in the car for the drive back to Coimbatore, I felt a deep sense of relief. Despite the inevitable change, one of my favorite hill stations hadn’t lost its pristine greenery or tranquil essence. I knew I'd come back.
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