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Darjeeling's Christmas Carnival

During the Yuletide season, Darjeeling undergoes a captivating metamorphosis, turning into a magical wonderland adorned by the towering Himalayan peaks and dreamy misty surroundings.

Tucked away in the foothills of the mighty Himalayas, Darjeeling is located in the northern part of West Bengal. This mesmerising hill town, with influences from its Colonial past, exudes an old-world charm that resembles the British countryside. Despite the constant influx of tourists and growing commercialism, Darjeeling hasn't lost its appeal among holidaymakers. Its ever-hospitable locals add to the beauty of this place.    Besides acres upon acres of tea estates carpeting the hillside, Darjeeling welcomes you with its quaint cafes, steaming momos, piping hot tea, wooden architecture, and misty roads. As I made my way around the town, I couldn't help but pause awhile to simply admire the gleaming crown of the Kanchenjunga in the distance. The breathtaking scenery of Darjeeling becomes even more enchanting during Christmas celebrations. Once the summer residence of high-ranking British officials, the town has kept up its tradition of celebrating Christmas on a grand scale. The town is home to many historic churches and cathedrals, which come alive during Christmas. During the holiday season, the cafes, clubs, and pubs on Darjeeling’s famous Mall Road remain open till late, serving festival-special drinks and delicacies. Moreover, Darjeeling organises a ten-day Christmas Carnival every year which sees the best of local art, music, shopping, and food.  Let’s take a quick look at all the ways you can enjoy Christmas in Darjeeling.

Festive cheer at the Darjeeling Carnival

Darjeeling's biggest winter celebration takes place in November, and music plays a significant role in the festivities. North Bengal is famous for its rock bands that produce fantastic fusion music. These local talents actively participate in making this spectacle a huge success.   The 10-day Darjeeling Christmas Carnival was first organised in November 2003 by a group of young people. They created the Darjeeling Initiative—a team to support common people in difficult times. The Darjeeling Initiative strongly believes that the issues faced by the people of the region could be effectively dealt with by spreading the culture of cooperation and holistic development along with a constant dialogue with the government. The group consists of members from all walks of life. The ten-day Christmas extravaganza offers plenty of opportunities to pamper your inner child. I had a whale of a time attending the poetry-reading sessions, photography exhibitions, and a delightful tea-tasting ceremony; watching car rallies and regional music as well as dance performances, and so much more. It was equally fun browsing through numerous stalls selling an eclectic collection of handicrafts and other hand-made merchandise and shopping to my heart’s content. Additionally, the carnival offers a variety of traditional beverages and ethnic dishes to savour.

As the sun sets behind the mountains, the footfall begins to increase, with people getting back home from work or school. Locals and tourists alike gather in the historic Mall area to immerse themselves in the festivities of the season. Every vendor greets you with a smile at every stall, whether or not you choose to purchase anything.   The festive ambience of the Darjeeling Christmas Carnival was set by the chilly air and live music playing in the background. Some of the songs played during the event included English classics, such as Summer of 69, Smells Like Teen Spirit, Sweet Child O’Mine, and Miss American Pie, among others. While exploring the festival grounds, I was captivated by some Bengali and Nepalese tunes and followed them for a while.   One of the main attractions at the Darjeeling Christmas Carnival was the Russian Cultural Centre's participation. It was a remarkable effort towards nurturing cultural exchanges between Russia and India. The centre presented an exhibit of the famous Russian artist Nicholas Roerich’s productions. He spent some of his most productive working years in Darjeeling in the 1920s. The centre also organised a photography exhibition.

Art, music, and food

The huge celebration inspires many other ceremonies and exhibitions that take place around this time of the year. A four-day art carnival—the Teesta Triveni Art Carnival—is organised in the first week of November. The festival features great music, excellent art, interesting photography exhibitions, workshops, and fashion shows. It is a one-of-a-kind festival that brings musicians and artists together on a single platform. The festival venues are usually located in Peshok Rishikhola, Teesta Triveni, and Sillery Gaon. During the week of Christmas, a fair called Gundri Bazar is organised and it brings together food, music, and art. It is named after an old market that no longer exists and is the result of the efforts of Vik-Run Foundation and Decibel Events who rehabilitated small businesses and workers afflicted by the COVID-19 pandemic. Young entrepreneurs around the state come together to set up stalls at Chowrasta Mall. You can expect organic products, homegrown spices, traditional packaged food, homemade desserts, confectionary items, and much more, at this fair.    When it comes to food, Darjeeling has plenty to offer. During a visit to the town, I was invited by a friend who lives here to explore its local cuisine. I was greeted with fresh seasonal fruits, rich plum cakes, and fried snacks, and they were so tasty that I couldn’t have had enough of them! My sumptuous dinner consisted of roasted meats, vegetable curries, chimfing paste, shilam dip, and sel roti (a traditional Nepalese ring-shaped fried sweet bread).

Other winter activities to look out for in Darjeeling

The three-week Ghoom Festival is organised at the end of December. It primarily showcases local art, culture, and cuisine. There are music and dance performances and even dog shows. The Ghoom Festival also offers joyrides aboard the heritage Toy Train in the evening, allowing visitors to take in beautiful views of the town. The festive atmosphere of the Darjeeling Christmas Carnival was carried over into the New Year celebrations. Darjeeling's Lepchas and Bhutias celebrate the New Year with vibrant street dance performances. These lengthy processions are a visual feast. The Darjeeling Carnival, with its impressive display of art, music, and culture, has grown to become one of the most important community events in the town. These spectacular events, abundant displays of amazing talent, and heartfelt camaraderie among the people provide an incomparable experience that you must witness at least once in your lifetime. And I consider myself fortunate to have witnessed such wonderful life celebrations!

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