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How I survived the year of the COVID-19 pandemic by exploring the parks and forests of Delhi
As a native of Delhi, it is only natural for me to love the city. However, it is a bigger compliment to any city if a migrant falls in love with it. Having spent the first 18 years of my life in the thick forests of Jharkhand, I moved to Delhi and spent five years here, pursuing my undergraduate and post-graduate degrees. After spending some time in Mumbai, Ahmedabad, and Chattisgarh, I had the opportunity to return to Delhi for another three years. During this time, I saw a side of the city that most citizens do not get to see.
On the other hand, my brother hates Delhi. To him, it is a city of crime, corruption and, of course, pollution. Every time he has flown down here, he has been witness to smog, scorching heat, or unbearable cold. I don’t blame him for not thinking much of Delhi. But to me, Delhi has a bit more nuance because of my unique experience in the city.
I was stuck in a small apartment in Delhi when the lockdown was imposed in March 2020. My flatmate and I took turns cooking meals and running errands during the harsh claustrophobia of those months. It was too much for me.
As months rolled by, the lockdown gradually eased and we were able to roam around in the city during specified hours. However, interstate movement was still heavily restricted. I had to get my fix of greenery while trapped within the confines of Delhi.
During this time, I discovered some incredible green spaces and open areas. City life can be claustrophobic even without a lockdown. So, whenever I felt stuck within my flat, these spaces provided me with an escape into nature.
I'm sharing these spaces with you in the hope that you will find them as useful as I did.
Located in the heart of the posh colonies of South Delhi lies the Hauz Khas forest. Covering an area of around 300 acres, this forest is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna. Its muddy trails wind through a web of trees and provide excellent opportunities for birdwatching and wildlife observation.
The forest is also home to the historic Hauz Khas Complex, which features many ancient structures, such as a mosque, tombs, and a stunning lake. The complex is a popular destination for history buffs and architectural enthusiasts as it provides a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the region.
Every evening before sunset, I used to take on the busy roads of Malviya Nagar and cross the Outer Ring Road. I would enter a narrow iron gate to get to Hauz Khas forest for my 7-km walk. The avenues of Moulshri would make way for a beautiful pomegranate grove. There was also a small cricket field, surrounded by parijat trees, where old folks would gather to set grains for the birds. Babblers, mynahs, and pigeons were a common sight. Sometimes, peacocks would also make a cameo. By the time my walk ended, it would already be dark, and a small owl would bid me goodbye at the southern gate of the park.
Just a minute's walk away, a swarm of cars would wait for the traffic signals to turn green. I wonder how many of them know that a world of wild creatures awaits them just metres away.
Located to the east of Malviya Nagar and southeast of Hauz Khas Village lies the expansive Jahanpanah Forest. Covering an area of approx. 4.5 sq km, the forest is home to a variety of trees, including neem, peepal, and mango.
Besides its rich plant life, Jahanpanah Forest boasts a diverse range of wildlife, from porcupines and mongoose to many bird species. The forest also has a beautiful lake. Surrounded by lush greenery, it is the perfect place to enjoy a picnic, a quiet walk, or spend time birdwatching.
Within the forest lies Jahanpanah City, an ancient archaeological site. The city once served as an extension of Tughlaqabad Fort. It was built by the ruler Muhammad bin Tughlaq in the 14th century as the fourth city of Delhi.
Whenever I had free time, I explored the Jahanpanah Forest. Since the park closes at sunset, I have never been able to fully explore it to my heart's content. It will take you several trips to fully appreciate all the trails Jahanpanah has to offer.
Sanjay Van, adjacent to the Qutub Minar, covers an area of over 10 sq km and is teeming with a wide variety of plant and animal life. There are several hiking and walking trails throughout the park, making it a popular destination for nature lovers. Visitors can various species of birds, deer, nilgai, and other animals in their natural habitat. The many small lakes in this park are home to thriving aquatic life.
Despite not being very close to Malviya Nagar, I would eagerly walk the long and busy streets to reach this forest, especially when I felt adventurous. As I entered the park, I would head straight to the centuries-old ruins of Qila Lal Kot. Qutub Minar looks even more majestic in the foreground of Babool trees. It is not uncommon to spot mongoose, peacock, or nilgai here. On one rather unusual day, I spotted a wild boar too!
Satpula Park, also known as Satpula Dam, is one of those hidden gems in Delhi that is often overlooked by visitors. Situated within the Hauz Khas complex, this historic park is spread over an area of 12 acres. Satpula Park, which means 'seven bridges' in Hindi, is named after the series of interconnected bridges in the park that spans across a large water channel.
Dating back to the 14th century, Satpula Park was originally built as a dam to provide water to the nearby Hauz Khas village. Over the centuries, the dam fell into disrepair. But in recent years, it has been restored and transformed into a park and recreational area.
Satpula Park was located right next to my apartment, so I would regularly come here for my morning walks. The south end of the park opens right in front of Select City Walk Mall, which served as a landmark. In the evening, the park would come alive with people playing football. I would often interact with them or just engage in some people-watching.
Besides my regular visits to these mini-forests and parks, I also explored Delhi Ridge and Butterfly Park as the lockdown eased. These nature visits and forest walks helped me unwind and calm my nerves. I understand if many of you feel apprehensive about Delhi like my brother did. But if you take your time to explore Delhi, you will discover many such hidden gems around the place, and you may also end up falling in love with the city.
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