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A trip to an old colonial town with mesmerising views of the Pir Panjal mountain range.
Dalhousie was discovered in the 1850s by a Viceroy of the same name. This rustic hill station, though a bit commercialised now, still features remnants of its colonial past. I wanted to explore the same and capture any vestiges of the bygone era. I had also read about the unmediated views of the Peer-Panjal range from Dalhousie, and how this town was the ideal place to visit many nearby attractions.
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Upon reaching Dalhousie, I headed out to explore the town centre. It felt like any other touristy hill station. It is defined by two popular chowks, Gandhi Chowk and Subhash Chowk. Both are bustling with cafes, restaurants, garment shops and souvenir outlets. There is even a Tibetan market near Gandhi Chowk. There's plenty to do here for couples and families. At Gandhi Chowk, I bought a few shawls made of Yak wool and had ginger honey tea in one of its famous cafes (Monga Cafe). I also tried the famous Peanut Chikki from a roadside vendor and had an Italian dinner at Dalhousie's oldest restaurant, Kwality. At Subhash Chowk, I had a delectable North India affair at Sher-e-Punjab and visited the largest church in town—the St. Francis Church.
My quest to find fragments of history in Dalhousie was fulfilled in the old market. Situated towards the lower stretches of the town, it’s a beautiful juxtaposition of old shops and ancient residential buildings. Very few tourists come to this part of the town. Wide concrete stairs wind in and out of the market. The western side of the market has an old temple and an open grassland overlooking a valley. Flanked by deodar and fir trees intermittently, walking here surely felt like being in another time.
This lake came about as a result of the construction of the Chamera Dam. It is a beautiful expanse of water body surrounded by hills. Located an hour's drive from Dalhousie, it is a popular spot for boating. The road to the dam runs by the reservoir, making it an extremely scenic drive. A 400-year-old temple sits on a hilltop at the eastern part of the reservoir. I went there thanks to my driver's recommendation. "Any wish you make here will come true," he said. I wondered about this cliché that is popular at so many religious places. Regardless, at 3,800 ft. above sea level, it provided lovely views of the hill ranges and water bodies.
Easily, the highlight of my trip was the lovely green meadow at Khajjiar. The vast expanse of carpeted green made me feel like I was in Switzerland! At a height of 6,500 feet above sea level, Khajjiar bears a resemblance to the climate of Switzerland. Only an hour away from Dalhousie, it is probably one of the best getaway spots in India, notwithstanding the throngs of tourists who visit from all parts of India. However, there is a pathway encircling the meadow that led me away from the bustling crowd and vendors. I kept walking on the path, shaded by dense deodar and pines, and soaked in the peaceful surroundings. There are numerous benches on the way to sit and relax. I could see some horses grazing freely on the wonderful grassland. It certainly felt like a place in Europe!
Kalatop is a reserved forest that is spread over an area of 20 sq. km. Lakkarmandi, at the base of the hill, is where the 3 km trek starts. The path is even more scenic during winters when myriad sheets of snow cover parts of the lush green vegetation. At 8,200 ft above sea level, it provides great views of the Dhauladhar range. The reserved forest is also home to the mighty Himalayan Black Bear. When I reached the summit, I saw a beautiful forest rest house. I had seen it somewhere before. As I was trying to connect the dots, my driver said this place had been used in many Bollywood movies. There were also a few small shops near the rest house that served snacks and hot beverages.
The trek to Dainkund was a surreal experience. Seldom will one get a chance to reach such heights via dedicated steps. The cemented narrow stairway runs along the steep incline of the hill. During winters, it becomes a bit tricky as in many places, the melting snow makes the steps very slippery. However, only in winter will one get such an untrammelled view of the snow-clad peaks of the mighty Dhauladhar range. As you continue going higher, the air becomes slightly thinner. It took me around 40 minutes to cover the 400 stairs to the top. I could see the adjoining valleys and mountains covered in a dazzling white cloak of snow. I was standing on the highest point of Dalhousie. On my way back, I saw a family of three (father and two kids) huddled around a fireplace. On closer look, I realised they were selling piping hot Maggi! With temperatures in single digits, a plate of the famous noodles never felt better! Dalhousie is a vibrant hill station with shades of the colonial past hidden in a few nooks and corners of the town. There are plenty of places to see in the vicinity of the town, which makes it an ideal getaway destination for any visitor. Dotted with luxury hotels, posh restaurants and high-end cafes, it ticks all the boxes for the perfect holiday.
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