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This Diwali, journey back in time to one of the world's oldest cities, adorned with thousands of diyas and enveloped in glorious legends.
The first place you fall in love with holds a special bond, much like the connections we share with people. In my case, that place is Varanasi, also known as Kashi. During my extended stay near Dashashwamedh Ghat, I spent over four weeks exploring the city's food, frenzy, and follies. Fortunately, my dates coincided with both Diwali and Dev Diwali. I suspect the festivities, along with the ancient ghats and the city's whimsical ways of functioning, made me fall in love with the city. Varanasi is a city steeped in history, spiritualism, and countless legends of gods and goddesses. Would it be surprising, then, that Banarasis celebrate Diwali with such fanfare? The festival falls during the most pleasant time to visit the city. Between October and November, the winter season casts a pinkish hue and riverside strolls become unforgettable. And of course, there’s the delightful winter cuisine.
The stories of Kashi’s chaats are never-ending, with two renowned old shops in the city offering a variety of these flavourful little parcels of delight. Both shops are a short walk from Dashashwamedh Ghat. On crossing Godowlia, you will spot Kaashi Chaat Bhandar to your right. If you are fortunate, find a seat in the cosy two-storeyed outlet and indulge in palak patta chaat, aloo tikki, and a plate of gulab jamun. A few hundred metres ahead, you'll discover Deena Chaat Bhandar. This shop serves the most delectable kulhad of tamatar chaat. Don't miss out on trying their bhalla papdi chaat, chura matar, and paani puri for a heavenly conclusion to your culinary exploration. During the winter season, the streets of Kashi introduce a unique dish. Malaiyo, made with milk and dew drops, is prepared overnight—under the moonlight for the weather to work its magic. If you explore the markets of Banaras early in the morning, you will find local shops selling fresh malaiyo in kulhads. Alternatively, visit Markandey in Thatheri Bazar before 11 am for a taste of the city's finest malaiyo. While wandering through the flavourful alleys of Banaras, make a point to stop by any of the local shops or homes. A friendly encounter might lead you to witness an authentic Dev Diwali celebration. That's precisely what happened to me during a brief hour on the auspicious day. As I strolled through the lanes beyond Meer Ghat, I unintentionally found myself on the premises of the Yadav family. The encounter turned into a 30-minute chat, during which I discovered more about the local traditions and celebrations of the festival.
While Dev Diwali is celebrated in only a few parts of India, the residents of Varanasi welcome it with unforgettable fanfare. The auspicious day begins with Kartik Snan, a ritual in which devotees immerse themselves in the holy waters of the River Ganga. After the bath, people decorate their homes with rangoli, which is made using flowers and powdered colours. The atmosphere in many households is filled with the continuous recitation of the Akhand Ramayan. This spiritual practice is accompanied by a flavourful bhog of halwa, puri, chana, and more. As the day progresses, the entire city converges upon the 84 ghats of Varanasi. People worship the gods and goddesses by lighting diyas and decorating the ghats as if they were their own homes. Thousands of lamps illuminate the ghats, casting a mesmerising reflection in the flowing river. The day reaches its climax with the Ganga Aarti at the Dashashwamedh, Assi, and Raja Harishchandra Ghats. Here, thousands of devotees and tourists gather to witness the annual spectacle of shimmering diyas, creating a breathtaking vista.
After my conversation with the Yadavs, I made my way to the ghats. The sun painted the sky with a gentle pink hue, and men and women were already busy decorating the steps. A group of women sang prayers as they crafted fresh diyas from wheat dough, while another cluster of young boys and women carefully rolled delicate wicks from cotton. Worshippers meticulously arranged the diyas in intricate patterns and adorned them with marigold garlands, while colourful LED lights adorned the ghat structures. The hours leading up to sundown felt like a beautiful celebration of togetherness. Everyone—strangers and relatives alike—moved in harmony, each aware of their role in the preparations. It was a sight unlike anything I had ever witnessed before. I boarded an engine boat to behold the splendour of the ghats from the river. From the boat, I marvelled at the magnificent decorations. As the sun dipped lower on the horizon, the diyas began to twinkle, one after the other. The shimmering lamps below were soon joined by dazzling fireworks in the sky above. Rainbow-coloured firecrackers danced in the air, creating a mesmerising rhythm as if the entire city was building up to the grand Ganga Aarti. While I had witnessed the aarti numerous times before, there was something special about how the hour unfolded during Dev Diwali. To fully immerse yourself in the sensory experience, it is best to board a boat and arrive at the periphery of the Dashashwamedh Ghat about 30 minutes before sunset. While the boat ride might be slightly steeper than the usual fare, it is well worth it. Once you are on the tranquil waters of the Ganga, it becomes all about witnessing the spiritual spectacle. The pandits gracefully sway the diyas, agarbattis, and thalis of worship, offering their devotion and a piece of their hearts to the city’s lifeline.
After the aarti, as you make your way to the bustling streets, you'll notice numerous shops along the ghats and the immediate vicinity. Take a moment to savour the iconic Banarasi paan at any of these local shops. After all, there is nothing quite like ending the night on a sweet note and paying homage to the city in the true Banarasi way.
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