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This gastronomic gem of an experience with its varied offerings is one that nobody should miss out on.
One sunny afternoon, I embarked on a culinary adventure in the vibrant streets of Humayunpur in Delhi. With anticipation fuelling my taste buds, I set out early to beat the scorching summer heat. As I stepped into the neighbourhood, I was greeted by parched streets, with only a few locals leisurely strolling around. A shopkeeper engrossed in the cool breeze of his trusty table fan, cast a nonchalant glance in my direction. In the distance, an elderly gentleman, one hand clutching a hookah pipe and the other fanning himself with a straw fan, gazed back idly.
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As I strolled through the narrow alleys, my eyes were drawn to the blue door of the restaurant. Upon entering, I was welcomed into a quiet, dim setting. The warm ambience and light music instantly set the mood for the food which was to follow. I opted for their signature chicken thali, which comprised rice, tender meat curry along with aloo bhaja (shredded potato fries). The highlight was the gundruk ko jhol—a traditional Nepalese curry made with fermented leafy greens. The novel flavours were a fitting beginning to the culinary wonders of Humayunpur.
A fusion of Tibetan and Chinese, I had heard of this legendary "hole in the wall" with its barely noticeable entrance, making the restaurant hard to find. I started with the legendary taipo—a large soft bread with your choice of fillings, which was served along with chilli oil—the perfect condiment. The menu offered a variety of delectable options, but it was the taipo that stole the show. The plump and juicy momos, whether steamed, fried, or in soup, would delight anyone. I also indulged in their chilli garlic fried rice. Freedom Corner's low, affordable pricing and delectable flavours, made it stand out for me.
After trying Tibetan cuisine, I made my way to The Categorical Eat-Pham, a place known to serve authentic Manipuri flavours. I ordered their Manipuri thali—a complete meal that comprised an assortment of duck, pork, potatoes, and greens, and was accompanied by a fragrant rice bowl and lentil stew (daal). Each bite highlighted the unique spices and ingredients of Manipuri cuisine. To end the meal on a sweet note, I tried the black rice kheer—a simple and delightful dessert.
No exploration of Humayunpur's food scene would be complete without a visit to Hornbill Restaurant—a famous spot for enjoying authentic Naga cuisine. The menu featured a range of Naga specialities—from the aromatic axone pork to the tantalising chicken with seasoned leaves. The highlight of my visit was the jhol momos—steamed dumplings infused with Naga curry. Each dish at Hornbill Restaurant was a testament to the dedication and passion of the team behind it.
I now jumped borders again, and headed to my ancestral home ground. Despite the limited seating, Mohinga had me completely smitten. Owing to my Myanmari roots, I had tasted some of dishes served here, at home. The Mohinga Ramyun, Mala Hin, or Chicken San Piau—I couldn't help but reminisce fond memories made with relatives over food. The simplicity of the place only added to its charm, and I found myself planning my return along with my family.
After indulging in a diverse range of flavours, I sought a cosy corner to relax and sip a cup of steaming coffee. Café Serendipity, a charming coffee house nestled in the heart of Humayunpur, was my choice. As I entered, the aroma of freshly ground coffee beans greeted me. I ordered a cappuccino that was prepared by their skilled baristas. The smooth, velvety texture and the rich aroma of the coffee transported me to a state of bliss. A perfect ending to my gastronomic excursion. As the day ended, the streets quickly filled up with locals. Although the lanes were still a maze, the markers I made a mental note of earlier were still identifiable. Graffiti lined the blank grey walls. A web of wires hung in the air. The mannequins in the thrift stores stood just as still as the old man and his hookah I'd passed before. The stores were now crowded. The air was filled with the symphony of Northeastern dialects, backed by vehicle horns. The final marker was a park where most food deliverymen hung out, busier than ever.
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