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Experience the breathtaking beauty of Mussoorie and Landour on the trail connecting the towns, while exploring the cafes, bazaars, and churches along the way.
I must admit that I was tempted to take a taxi from Mussoorie to Landour. I wondered if ditching the cab and trusting my fitness was a mistake. However, the hike to Landour, the sophisticated sister of Mussoorie, proved to be a unique experience. It was a journey from chaos to calmness, from the present to the past. Let me take you on this journey of transformation as we weave in and out of cafes and check out bazaars as well as churches along the way.
The Mall Road in Mussoorie is the obvious starting point for the trail from Mussoorie to Landour. As I began my journey, I saw the town gradually awaken from its slumber, with shops and cafes slowly coming to life. I had already decided where I would eat breakfast. The morning fog had left Mall Road somewhat hazy. A few steps down the road, I spotted Teatotaler Cafe which appeared to almost cling to the cliff. I popped into the cafe for a classic breakfast of bread omelette and coffee. I spent some time admiring the eco-friendly decor of this adorable cafe.
When I got back to Mall Road, it was up and about, already welcoming visitors with wide smiles. After accommodating a few hotels on both sides, it splits into two, only to meet again a few metres down the line. That meeting point is where the trail gets interesting.
Just on the left is the old and famous Cambridge Book Depot, jam-packed with books and telling the story of Ruskin Bond, India's eminent and children's favourite author. Walking from Mussoorie to Landour is akin to living the life of one of the characters in a Ruskin Bond book, as he always talks about the charm of this magical route. Every Saturday evening, he comes down to this bookstore to meet his fans and sign their books.
I grabbed a copy of his latest book Song of the Forest and marched on to explore what Mall Road had in store for me. For the next 500 m until Kulri Chowk, the road looked a lot like its name, The Mall: tons of branded stores and restaurants cramped between a few Colonial-era buildings which have now been turned into pubs and resto-bars. This stretch of Mall Road receives crowds of tourists, which brings in a lot of business for the locals.
Taking a right from Kulri Chowk, the Mall road breathes a little and the hike gets a tad tough. Another few metres and a bright red and orange column greeted me. It is the Landour Clock Tower, standing proud between the congested streets, entangled in the thick wires and screaming about its existence.
Past that, a viewpoint with iron benches offers a spot to rest for awhile and take in pretty views of Mussoorie. I snapped some shots at this point and continued my walk along the path that appeared to be the end of Mall Road. But it got more interesting as the road narrowed to a street full of vegetable vendors and colourful murals. I came across an age-old restaurant, serving local dishes in brass vessels, as well as a massive colonial structure with shattered glass windows.
The final few steps of Mall Road reminded me that I had left Mussoorie behind and had reached Landour. You can tell with antique shops and abandoned cottages marking the passage from one era to the next. And, of course, the entrance to Landour is marked by a strong whiff of baked goodies from a Dutch-owned cafe called Lotte's. According to the staff, the European decor of the cafe and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee primarily draw travellers to this cosy cafe. I returned to my trail after promising him that I'd be back for my evening coffee.
At the end of Mall Road, take the extreme left and here the route begins to ascend. The sharp turn of the trail is lined with charming cafes on one side and magnificent views of the Garhwal Himalayas on the other side. As I was panting and quietly absorbing the amazing ambience, a kind school van driver offered me a lift which I refused because I wanted to complete the trail by foot.
A few steps later, to the right, I noticed a hotel vividly painted in red, blue and yellow and decorated with embossed golden dragons and other Tibetan motifs. This was the famous Doma's Inn and Cafe, budget hotel with a restaurant with a restaurant serving authentic Tibetan dishes.
The intriguing aspect of this cafe is that it shares a wall with Mr Ruskin Bond's home, Ivy Cottage. I knew I wouldn't be able to catch a glimpse of him, so I went inside for a wholesome bowl of thukpa. It filled my heart and soul, preparing me for the hardest yet picturesque part of the trail.
Thereafter, the cobbled path ascends, taking you deep into the deodar and pine forests. The humans fall silent at this point. Nature also astounded me with the musky scent of woods mixed with the wind, the songs of jaybirds, and the sight of dancing wildflowers across the path.
The tranquillity of the place is occasionally disrupted by tourist cars visiting Landour's famous Char Dukan. It is an aptly named line of four quick cafes serving tea and hot parathas for more than 100 years. With time, the cafes have added pancakes and burgers to their menu to keep up with the trend.
My gaze was soon drawn to St Paul's Church which is located right next to Char Dukan. This church was built in 1839 and is one of Mussoorie's most historic churches. This was the primary church for the British residents of Landour as well as the premier church for the British cantonment.
Beyond St. Paul's Church, the road again scales up towards the steep slopes of Landour. This stage of the trail is perhaps the most peaceful part of the trail. And in this serene atmosphere lies another famous landmark of Landour, the Rokeby Manor, a premium English-style estate that was built in 1840. It is now a luxury hotel.
Engrossed in my thoughts of how the hills of Landour must look during the 19th century, I reached the Kellog Memorial Church. It is located in the middle of the 8-shaped road and looks stunning with its Gothic architecture and stained-glass windows. It was built in 1903 as a Presbyterian Church and during that time, the British were taught Hindi at the Landour Language School within the church premises.
Leaving the church behind, I went straight down to the most exciting part of the hike. Landour was surely growing on me as I walked through the woods and the stone cottages of Bothwell Bank and La Villa Bethany. The old-world charm of Landour is preserved because of the town's no-new construction policy.
Shaded by oaks and deodars, the road descends towards the small bazaar of Landour, known as Sisters Market, which comprises only three shops: a bakery, a grocery, and a handicrafts store. A. Prakash & Co. is a grocery shop famous for its fresh fruit jams and chutneys while the handicrafts store sells local artworks and souvenirs.
As I made my way back towards the crowds of Mussoorie, I noticed the changing realities and was grateful for experiencing the beauty of well-preserved places like Landour.
To top off this incredible loop trail between Mussoorie and Landour, I decided to promenade along the Camels Back Road as well.
Past Kulri Chowk, where Mall Road begins to get super busy, a detour on the right takes you towards a street that offers stunning scenery. Camels Back Road is a winding road in the middle of nowhere that features various shades of the Himalayas playing hide and seek with the fog and sunlight. I arrived just in time for the sunset and witnessed the picture-perfect, unforgettable scenery. Camels Back Road ends at Library Point, completing the whole trail in a loop.
The uniqueness of this Mussoorie-Landour loop trail is that you can begin in either direction and at any time of day. And the walk promises to provide majestic views of the Himalayas and sprawling forests, as well as preserved traces of a bygone culture and civilization that wishes to remain alone.
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