Exploring Varkala—Kerala's Underrated Beach Town

The Coastal Way in

Just before Christmas, we rented a Mini Cooper from Fort Kochi and drove through the bucolic roads of Kerala. We cut through backwaters, swivelled by the shoreline, and waved hello to the many colourful towns with thriving coconut and banana trees. The five-hour drive by the shoreline of Kerala cuts through the backwater towns of Alappuzha and Kollam. The best part is that nearly anywhere you make a stop, the beach is less than a five-minute walk away. Undoubtedly, this route is a blessing if you’re fond of road trips, and I cannot think of a better way to explore the shoreline of "God’s Own Country". "Why Varkala?", you might ask. Well, the town offers the perfect mix of Kerala's enchanting backwaters, pristine beaches, and a hippie coastal vibe. Nestled atop a cliff, the town is an idyllic place where you can unwind to your heart's content, enjoy some light revelry, and spend a significant portion of your day close to serene water bodies. Anticipating a breezy holiday, we arrived at our Airbnb in the afternoon. Nestled on the South Cliff, our villa provided an ideal location for our stay. It was within walking distance of the cliff, tucked away from the bustling central areas. The villa was a cosy place run by a loving couple, Ethna and Yunis. Ethna had moved to India to practice Yoga, host travellers, and surf her days away. Whereas Yunis, born and brought up in Kashmir, was a snowboarding instructor in Gulmarg before he moved to Varkala. Later, he would tell us about the similarities between snowboarding and surfing.

Surf Guide for Newbies

At 7 the following morning, fully geared up, we gathered at the cliff beach, clutching surfboards that barely fit our grips. After a few initial minutes of rehearsing our moves in the sand, we were escorted into the water. We were asked to “walk along” the waves till we reached a point far enough from the shore. Then, the act of balancing, tumbling, and sliding began.  If you're planning a getaway to Varkala that is any longer than three days, I highly recommend that you take a small surfing course. It's easy to find contacts of local (certified) trainers —by asking around at your hotel or at a cafe—who can give you a solid introduction to the sport. Alternatively, you can reach out to popular surf schools at Varkala, which include Surf N Sea, Ruasta Surf, and Soul & Surf. While single-day lessons are available, I recommend that you go for a 4-7 days' course to get a grip on wave balancing. We spent the next six mornings following our active morning regime. On our final day, we were taken to the black sand beach. Here, we were greeted by fellow young surfers and the occasional water babies, playing frisbee in the distance. We spent the final surfing hour celebrating our minor balancing victories, promising to learn more about the sport in the future.

Beaches, Backwaters and Binge Eating

While we spent mornings toiling in salty waters and pinching sands, we kept the rest of the day for intentional leisure. Walking to Inda Cafe for their hearty breakfast became a ritual. If I had to sum up our cafe experience in Varkala, I would say this—Inda Cafe is the perfect choice for breakfast, and their sister restaurant—just across the street—True Thomas, has the most impressive traditional fare. For afternoon refreshments, Coffee Temple serves delicious cold coffees, and at the end of the day, Cafe Darjeeling is lovely for a group dinner with cocktails. During the initial days, we spent the daylight hours making it to the closest sightseeing spots. Kappil and Edava beaches, Anjengo Fort and Lighthouse, and the golden Island of Ponnumthuruthu were some of the initial places of interest. When in Varkala, you can also drive down to the beaches at Odayam, Chilakoor, and Thiruvambadi, for a slice of 'everything-Kerala'.

After thoroughly exploring the local attractions, we moved to the peripheries of our tentative holiday map. We drove to the nearby towns of Kollam and Kovalam to explore more beaches. Kollam treated us to a beautiful sunset on the shoreline and a rainbow right opposite it. Whereas Kovalam was a slow, scenic affair, once we walked past the crowded (but beautiful) beach towards Taj Green Cove. The highlight of our getaway in Varkala was a trip to Munroe Islands. Currently, it is amongst the popular tourist haunts, but back in 2020, the area was sparsely visited and even emptier due to the first wave of COVID. We met Ajji, the boatman at a recognised entry point to Munroe, and sailed off in his rustic wooden canoe. Handmade with a pointy black nose that gave them more character, these boats entail a long history. Generally, the locals here are happy to tell you about their lives, boats, and the region, so try to find an English-speaking boatman if you’re not well-versed in Malayalam.

We spent nearly three hours on the boat, readily dunking at Ajji’s prompts while crossing under canal bridges, pestering him with questions about prawn farming, and photographing the majestic mangroves. You can also look forward to locals practising coir making, fishermen fishing about, and villagers going about their day, on the roads just above the canals. But what is likely to take your breath away is the brilliant lining of coconut trees over emerald waters and the slow, gentle rowing of the boat that uncovers bewildering landscapes with each titchy turn. Another day trip would take you to Jatayu’s Earth Centre, where the world's largest stone sculpture of Jatayu will greet you in all its grandeur. You can pair this visit with a hike to Vallabhankunnu hilltop, where a sprawling valley view awaits you with pretty sunset skies.  Our days went by chasing violet sunsets and driving down to any place that had a semblance of exploratory potential. My heart, however, is hooked on surfing. I hope to return someday to surf by the shores of Varkala at sunset.