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Explore the best beaches of Goa during the monsoon
Goa is most crowded during winter. The months from November to January, while super crowded, are too pleasant to miss. It is during this time that the shacks, resorts, restaurants, and pubs are fully booked and packed.
But the monsoons are a different story. The months from July to August are marked by heavy rains and light crowds. As many shops are closed for business, Goa is not open to visitors. At least, that’s what I thought until my car rental provider, Irfan, told me otherwise.
I had rented several self-drive cars from Irfan over the last few years. We became friends and I would even get a waiver on the pick-up/drop charges every time I went to Goa. So, when my last trip to Goa came to an end Irfan said to me, "Drop by during July-August and rent a bike from me. See all the beaches from north to south. You will love Goa even more." I knew I had to try it out.
That August, an unexpected holiday came up. So, I wasted no thought and booked a bike from Irfan. This article records my experiences as I took his unique itinerary of tracing the beaches from North Goa to South Goa.
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As per Irfan's list, I rode straight to Arambol Beach. Although just as long and wide, Arambol was fairly different from the usual party beaches of North Goa. It featured beachfront settlements, where you could see people in deep meditation or in Yoga postures.
"There are over 30 Yoga centres and ashrams here,” explained a nearby tea-stall owner, “People from many countries come and stay for months." The art forms taught here were varied and fascinating–from Zen Meditation to Tai Chi Painting, Sufi Music, and Contact Dance. Arambol seemed dreamy; a place for dreamers and soul-searchers.
The nesting of the Olive Ridley turtles is an annual phenomenon that can be observed during the months of October to March. The nesting site of the Olive Ridley turtles at Morjim Beach can be seen from atop Chapora Fort. Unlike other beaches, Morjim Beach has little to no commercial activity. About 10 km from Arambol, the beach witnesses the confluence of the Chapora River and the Arabian Sea. One can see the sand particles dance above water due to the opposing winds from the river and the sea.
It was fascinating to see streaks of black river sand intersperse with the golden beach. The nesting of the Olive Ridley turtles is an annual phenomenon that can be observed during the months of October to March. The nesting site of the Olive Ridley turtles at Morjim Beach can be seen from atop Chapora Fort. Unlike other beaches, Morjim Beach has little to no commercial activity. About 10 km from Arambol, the beach witnesses the confluence of the Chapora River and the Arabian Sea. One can see the sand particles dance above water due to the opposing winds from the river and the sea.
It was fascinating to see streaks of black river sand intersperse with the golden beach. The nesting of the Olive Ridley turtles is an annual phenomenon that can be observed during the months of October to March. The nesting site of the Olive Ridley turtles at Morjim Beach can be seen from atop Chapora Fort. Unlike other beaches, Morjim Beach has little to no commercial activity. About 10 km from Arambol, the beach witnesses the confluence of the Chapora River and the Arabian Sea. One can see the sand particles dance above water due to the opposing winds from the river and the sea. It was fascinating to see streaks of black river sand intersperse with the golden beach.
The next morning, my itinerary took me to the Chapora Fort. Built by the Portuguese in 1617, this fort was popularised in 2001 through the Bollywood movie, Dil Chahta Hai. Today, only the walls of the fort remain, with rocky outcrops and a cover of grasslands in the interiors.
But the fort walls are not what interested me. Along the boundary walls, there is a non-descript opening to a narrow gravel trail. Unknown to most tourists, the trail leads to a protruding cliff, from where one can see the stunning expanse of Dream Beach and Vagator Beach on the left and Morjim Beach and the Chapora River Estuary on the right. I noticed people navigating this slippery terrain and decided to follow them. After a brief trek, I reached one of the best vantage points in India.
Vagator Beach is the epicentre of the party culture in North Goa, characterised by loud music, a hip crowd, and excellent food. The crescent-shaped beach is famous for its midnight parties. The vibe is different in the monsoons. A plethora of resorts and shacks on the coast remain closed during rain. One can find a quiet spot to enjoy the sound of waves crashing against the boulders. I was reminded of Vagator Beach before the party culture of the nearby Anjuna Beach invaded it. The famous Parra Road is nearby. This lovely stretch of road, with coconut trees and paddy fields on either side, is featured in the Bollywood movie, Dear Zindagi. As I slowly rode through it, I could see several people taking pictures and capturing the soulful vistas.
During a crowded month, Anjuna Beach would be the spot for rave parties, dance, late-night music, and binge drinking. A dream destination for the young crowd, the hippies, and backpackers, I had always avoided Anjuna due to the crowd.
However, this part of Goa looks almost unrecognisable in the monsoons. The waves are stronger, the wind blew much harder, and the water almost touched the shacks. The rocky outcrops on the beach shone brightly under the intermittent sunshine. The few restaurants that were open, offered great deals on the menu.
Heading south to Goa, I was struck by the region's picturesque beauty. In all those years of driving in Goa, I had not realised how spectacular it was. The Western Ghats emerged as I rode ahead of Margao. Small ghat roads began to appear, surrounded by thick vegetation, with towering mountains looming ahead. The scenery was breathtaking, and I finally understood what Irfan had been referring to. Riding a bike on freshly drenched roads with a slight intermittent drizzle was an exhilarating experience.
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As I ventured further, I made my way towards the Cabo De Rama Fort, about 30 km from Margao. Though the fort's ruins were little more than a crumbling wall, the road leading to it was nothing short of spectacular. It was a straight road that appeared to end at a cliff's edge, with the Arabian Sea beyond. From a distance, it seemed like the road would lead into the sea. As I peered over the edge, I saw the gradual slope of the cliff, ending in the sea with a secluded beach. The view from above, with tall coconut palms fringing the coastline, was mesmerizing. I realized that during the rainy season, when the sky is scattered with clouds, the sunset looks magical. It looked as if the sky was painted by an errant painter running amok in no particular direction.
Agonda Beach is arguably one of the most picturesque beaches in the region. Flanked by gorgeous green mountains on either side, Agonda used to be a secluded paradise. However, in recent years, small properties have sprung up, though the charm of the place remains intact. When I arrived, it started to rain. I took a leisurely stroll along the narrow road that runs along the beach stretch. I parked my bike in one of the shops, rented an umbrella, and enjoyed the blissfully quiet atmosphere with a scarce crowd.
Next on my list was Palolem Beach, often dubbed the Anjuna of the South, though more accommodating to a diverse range of visitors. While it remains a favourite among western backpackers, it boasts a few upscale accommodations too. One of my favourite aspects of this beach was the variety of food joints. From Italian to Spanish cuisine, the beachfront is filled with an array of options, though some were closed at the time of my visit. However, some significant properties remained open year-round and served exceptional food.
As the tourist trail usually ends at Palolem Beach, Irfan had recommended three more beaches in the south: Rajbag Beach, Colomb Beach, and Galgibaga Beach. I had booked a stay near Rajbag Beach, but after seeing so many beaches, I began to wonder what else could be different. Little did I know how wrong I was.
The brilliant beaches of Rajbagh and Galgibaga fly under most tourist radars. During monsoons, these two are a treat to visit. The reason being the lovely rivers of Talpon and Galgibag draining into the sea at the southern end of each of these beaches respectively.
You can walk to the exact location where the river meets the ocean. It's surreal to see the swirling water of the river blend calmly into the waves. As I surveyed this enchanting scene and took in a lungful of clean crisp air, my heart swelled with contentment.
I saw a lone girl sitting on one of the rocks, watching the estuary with a book in hand. I suddenly wished I had a book, too, instead of a phone. She wasn't clicking pictures like me but was more engrossed in enjoying the moment. Inspired, I put my phone down and followed her gaze. She was oblivious to my presence. Together we saw the golden sun fuse into the amber horizon.
Each time I visit Goa, I discover a little more of its character and rhythm. It is an unfolding story, without an end. In monsoon, Goa looks and feels pleasantly different. There is plenty to see apart from the beaches. Verdant green fields, blue fishing nets, and brightly coloured homes create a dreamy tapestry. It rained intermittently and I had to make multiple stops. However, it was worth the effort.
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