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An account of my encounter with a time-honoured drinking tradition in a remote village in Jharkhand.
After years of being away, when I returned to Jharkhand, my home, I felt a deep sense of nostalgia and excitement. Having spent the first 18 years of my life in this beautiful state, I was eager to reconnect with my roots and explore the traditions that shaped my early years. Little did I know that my journey would lead me to a remote tribal village in Khunti. Here, I not only observed but also actively participated in the unique drinking culture of the local community. My friend and I set out to visit his ancestral tribal village in Khunti. We embarked on a journey through the dense forests and rolling hills, finally arriving at his village. The air was filled with the earthy scent of the surrounding wilderness. The villagers greeted us with warm smiles and open hearts, eager to share their customs and way of life. As the sun began to set, the tribal elders gathered in a designated area. I joined them as I was keen to learn about how they prepared their traditional drinks. It was here that I was introduced to mahua and hadiya, the beloved drinks of the community.
Mahua, a potent liquor derived from the flowers of the mahua tree, holds a special place in the hearts of the villagers. The process of making mahua involves meticulous processing—made possible with the knowledge that has been passed down through several generations. Initially, the villagers collect the fallen mahua flowers, which bloom in abundance during the spring season. The flowers are then carefully handpicked, ensuring only the freshest and most fragrant ones are selected. They are then brought back to the village and sorted with great precision. Next, the flowers are left to dry in the sun. This process takes several days, during which the flowers transform, releasing their sweet nectar, and develop a distinct aroma. Once the flowers dry to a rich brown, the petals are fermented for three to five days with yeast-infused rice cakes. The villagers then combine the petals, jaggery, water, and fruit—such as jamun—which is followed by an eight-day fermentation period. Later, the mixture is boiled in a metal pot, with a smaller clay pot placed on top and connected by tubing. To capture the vapour, the gaps between the pots are sealed with mud and cloth. The condensed vapour drips into a metal container and the liquor is ready. The culmination of this intricate process yields mahua, a golden elixir that embodies the essence of the mahua tree and the spirit of the villagers. The liquor is stored in clay pots, carefully sealed to preserve its freshness and potency.
Hadiya, another favourite in the region, is crafted from rice. Although the process of making hadiya is simpler compared to mahua, it is equally significant to the community. The process begins with soaking rice grains, overnight, in water, to soften them. The softened rice is then ground into a fine paste, resembling a thick batter. This paste is placed in large clay pots, covered, and left to ferment for a couple of days. During fermentation, the natural enzymes in the rice convert the starch into sugar, initiating alcoholic fermentation. To expedite the process, a small ball of a herbal mixture, known as ranu, is added to the liquid. As time passes, the liquid transforms into hadiya, a slightly sour and effervescent rice beer that is enjoyed by the villagers.
In the evening, the villagers would routinely gather around a communal fire, sharing stories and laughter. It was during these intimate moments that freshly brewed mahua and hadiya would flow freely, creating a sense of camaraderie. As I immersed myself in their drinking culture, I realised that mahua and hadiya were more than just drinks. They were a reflection of the community's traditions, their deep connection with nature, and their joy in celebrating life's simple pleasures. With each sip, I savoured the rich flavours, and enjoyed the laughter that echoed through the night. At that moment, I felt an indescribable sense of belonging. It felt as if I had come full circle, rediscovering a part of myself that had been long forgotten. While leaving the village, I carried not only the memories of the intoxicating flavours, but also an intense appreciation for the tribal traditions and the deep-rooted connection between nature, community, and culture. Once again, Jharkhand had welcomed me with open arms, offering me a glimpse into a world that I would forever hold close to my heart.
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