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Experiencing unexpected hospitality in the middle of nowhere.
Hitchhiking through Ladakh's Trans-Himalayan region had always been on my bucket list. Finally, the day had arrived. I found myself in Turtuk after a breathtaking journey from Leh. I traversed beautiful winding mountain roads and crossed majestic high passes to get here. This hidden gem in the Nubra Valley offered a glimpse into the unique Balti culture. For two days, I immersed myself in the vibrant tapestry of Turtuk. With the spirit of adventure travel, I wandered through its narrow lanes, marvelled at the ancient stone houses and interacted with the friendly locals. The village exuded an aura of tranquillity and authenticity. It all seemed untouched by the rush of modernity. As my time in Turtuk drew to a close, I realised that catching the early morning bus back to Leh was crucial. With a heavy heart, I bid farewell to the village and its warm inhabitants. The next morning, I woke up before dawn. I was up to the brim with anticipation and a tinge of sadness at leaving this picturesque paradise behind.
I reached the bus stop to embark on the journey back to Leh. But fate had other plans. To my dismay, I discovered that the bus had already departed. Panic crept in momentarily. But then an idea struck me—why not hitchhike? Between 6.30-9am, I found myself sitting outside a closed shop, burdened with all my luggage. I made do with the apricots and berries I had plucked from the homestay. I munched on them as I waited for a chance to leave. Every person I approached confirmed my fear—the last bus had departed. My only hope was to catch a ride with a local heading toward the city. However, it was too early for anyone to be making such trips. I watched as numerous army trucks rumbled past us. The drivers gave me friendly waves but not stopping to offer a lift. Regulations likely prevented them from picking up tourists like me. It was disheartening to see my options dwindle as time ticked away. But I refused to lose hope. Sometimes, fortune favours the persistent and the patient. I held onto the belief that a kind-hearted soul would come to my rescue. I sat there, stranded yet determined. The taste of apricots and berries lingered on my lips, reminding me of the beautiful days I had spent in the serene homestay. Little did I know that my patience was about to pay off, and my journey would soon take an unexpected turn. I found a truck ready to leave for Bogdang, a place 20 km ahead, toward Hunder.
The barren mountains stretched as far as the eye could see, with their rugged faces displaying the test of time. The landscape transformed from golden dunes to picturesque valleys adorned with colourful wildflowers. Crystal-clear streams meandered through the arid terrain, offering a glimpse of life, as well as that of travel and adventure, in this harsh environment. Each passing mile was a revelation as if nature was guiding me through its inspiring creations. We reached Bogdang in no time. I had to get down and wait for another vehicle again.
One of the cars that had previously ignored my request for a lift suddenly turned around. The driver, whom I later came to know as Raza, asked if I needed a ride. Uncertain if he offered it for free, I asked if he expected payment. To my relief, he agreed to drop me off at Hunder for Rs. 500. During the drive, Raza explained that he had seen me asking for a lift earlier but had passengers to drop off before returning. He mentioned that he and his friends were also planning to camp in Hunder that night. Raza quickly deduced that I was a backpacker, and as we headed toward Hunder, he proposed an intriguing plan. He revealed that he used to operate a homestay near Leh, which had suffered due to the lack of tourists during the past year because of the pandemic. He recognised my affinity for backpacking experiences and suggested I stay with him, offering a chance to revitalise his homestay. We could spend some time exploring Hunder together, and later he would take me to Leh. He offered accommodation at his homestay for a reasonable rate of Rs. 250 per night. In return, I agreed to pay him Rs. 500 for the ride from Hunder to Leh. This arrangement seemed like a great deal considering that a taxi ride alone would have cost me around Rs. 3,000. While the bus was the cheapest option between Hunder and Leh, it would have been a slow and somewhat uncomfortable journey. With excitement and a sense of adventure, I accepted Raza's offer, grateful for the unexpected opportunity to explore Hunder and support a local entrepreneur in restarting his homestay.
Hitchhiking in Ladakh proved to be more than just a mode of transportation. It became an opportunity to connect with the locals and immerse myself in their way of life. At Raza's homestay, we cooked food together. While Raza learned how spices are used in my region, I figured out that the purple potatoes in Ladakh take much longer to boil. Raza also participated in the pre-Muharram events and activities in his village, giving me an insight into the lives of the locals there. This extraordinary adventure travel journey through the cold desert of Ladakh taught me invaluable life lessons. It reminded me of the kindness of strangers, the beauty of human connection, and the resilience within us. It taught me to embrace uncertainty and appreciate the serendipitous moments that make travel truly unforgettable.
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