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Where bohemian lifestyle and a love for nature combine for a unique experience of tranquillity and meditation.
Amidst the chaos of city life and my demanding work schedule, I found myself craving a respite from it all. Longing for a peaceful sanctuary, I boarded a flight to Pantnagar in Uttarakhand and embarked on a journey toward the mountains. Originally intending to take a bus to Almora, a serendipitous conversation with a bus conductor persuaded me to visit a nearby village instead. As I journeyed 8 km north of Almora, I stumbled upon the treasure of Kasar Devi—Uttarakhand's crown jewel. This picturesque village boasts of every amenity, which makes it an ideal haven for backpackers seeking respite—budget-friendly accommodation, easy accessibility, a serene environment unspoiled by crowds, and friendly locals. The availability of economical stays in Kasar Devi makes it a perfect base for travellers, like me, who wish to explore the surrounding area's verdant hills and quaint villages. The scenic landscape of the village adds to its charm, making it a coveted getaway destination for those who crave a peaceful escape.
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As I meandered through the village of Kasar Devi, a friendly local regaled me with its intriguing history. The story began with the revered philosopher Swami Vivekananda's visit to this place for spiritual solace. Impressed by its serene ambience, he mentioned it in his writings, sparking interest in the area. Soon after, Danish mystic Sunyata Baba established his abode in Kasar Devi, drawing many free-spirited foreigners to the village. With time, the influx of such visitors transformed the place into a hippie utopia, enrapturing all who sought its mystical charm and peaceful ambience. Among the notable visitors to Kasar Devi were the Tibetan Buddhist Anagarika Govinda, the American poet Allen Ginsberg, the English musician George Harrison, and the renowned singer-songwriter Bob Dylan—all left with a life-changing experience. During my first day in this haven, I found it hard to leave the comfort of my lodgings and venture out. Mesmerised with the view from my room's balcony, I couldn't resist sinking into the chair outside, watching the day unfold while savouring a cup of tea. Despite my reluctance, I knew that time was limited, and I wanted to make the most out of this getaway opportunity.
I was eager to delve into the local culture and decided to trek up to the famous Kasar Devi Temple. Perched atop a hill, the temple offered breathtaking panoramic views of the awe-inspiring Himalayas. Despite not being an avid trekker, I felt a profound sense of tranquillity as I climbed the winding stone steps that led to the temple. I was struck by the spiritual atmosphere and the ancient architecture, which was truly captivating. The temple, dedicated to Kasar Devi, dates back to the 2nd century CE. It comprises two groups of temples devoted to Lord Shiva and Bairava, and features an akhand jyoti that burns continuously for years, and a dhuni believed to have powerful healing properties. I was drawn to the exquisite ancient architecture and the serene surroundings. It was an incredibly humbling experience that allowed me to connect deeply with the region's rich spiritual heritage.
As the evening approached, I decided to stroll through Crank's Ridge, popularly known as Hippie Hill. The gentle breeze carried a refreshing aroma, which led me to a quaint tea shop, where I treated myself to a steaming cup of tea and homemade cakes. As I sat there, a bohemian-clad foreigner strummed his guitar and sang Bob Dylan's Blowin' in the Wind, adding to the place's serenity. The idyllic atmosphere and the warm hospitality of the locals made the experience delightful. It was easy to see why Crank's Ridge was a getaway haven for artists, writers, and musicians. The creative energy and breathtaking vistas inspired me to take out my notebook and capture the stunning scenery in a quick sketch or two.
As the days passed, I could feel my worries melt away and a sense of peace washed over me. After a peaceful morning and a delicious brunch featuring ragi roti and bhang ki chutney—a flavorful hemp seed chutney made with cumin seeds, garlic leaves, tamarind, and salt—I decided to explore the nearby Buddhist meditation centre, the Drikung Kagyud Evam ChosKhorling Meditation Center. The serene atmosphere and guidance of the resident monks allowed me to delve deeper into my thoughts. Empowered by this newfound peace, I set out on a trek to Kalimath, a unique temple in India dedicated to the worship of Goddess Kali and her sisters, Saraswati and Laxmi. Legend has it that after slaying the demon Raktbeej, Goddess Kali disappeared underground at this very spot, where a silver plate now covers the point of her descent, and is revered by pilgrims and devotees. The picturesque trails and tranquil mountains provided the perfect backdrop for contemplation and self-reflection.
The next day, my newfound friends and I visited Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. It is a haven for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers. The sanctuary boasts of diverse flora and fauna, making it a paradise for wildlife lovers. A trek through the sanctuary's dense forests was an unforgettable experience, as we witnessed exotic species of birds and animals in their natural habitat. At a cafe, the owner suggested that we indulge in birdwatching in Binsar. We were lucky enough to spot the Blue Whistling Thrush, Brown-fronted Woodpecker, and Bar-tailed Treecreeper, among others.
We then took a village tour and strolled through the nearby villages. The verdant Pahadi landscapes and the rich Uttarakhand culture made a perfect combination for first-time visitors like us. The experience was truly immersive, as we gained insight into the locals' way of life, thanks to their warm hospitality and eagerness to share their stories. We were even invited into some homes. My getaway to Kasar was an experience of a lifetime. The beautiful landscapes, the tranquil surroundings, and the warm hospitality of the locals made this trip unforgettable. The hippie culture and the artistic vibe that permeated the air made it a unique and memorable experience. As my time in Kasar ended, I felt a deep sadness. I wished I could stay longer. The memories of this trip will stay with me forever, and I hope to return someday.
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