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For an indulgent weekend away
Every year, my best friends and I plan three days away from our busy routines. This was our third year. We seem to have finally cracked the code of a successful girls' trip:
We'd already done Goa and Bangalore, and this year, we wanted to be a little more adventurous – so we decided to visit Pondicherry (or Puducherry, as it is now called). Situated near Chennai (three hours away by road), Pondicherry is a union territory town that was once a thriving French colony. Today, the only hints of Pondicherry's past remain around the elegant but very small French Quarter. It has chic pastel-coloured bungalows and street signs, which could have been transplanted directly from Paris. Here is a Rue Surcouf, and there is a Rue Saint Martin – with their names written in Tamil and French side by side! It is all deliciously exotic.
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To reach Pondicherry, we hired a taxi from the airport. A warning to all those thinking of doing the same – don’t! Regular taxis are not allowed to ply outside city limits. We only learned this later. At every toll point, our driver engaged in frantic mutterings and pleading with the authorities. Luckily, they allowed him through, but it was an unnecessary waste of time. We should have just let our hotel send us a car. For a thousand rupees less, the taxi was not worth the extra hassle. Plus the driver took us by the boring highway route. Instead, the fun way to get to Pondicherry is via the East Coast Road. This road offers scenic views of the Bay of Bengal. We discovered this only on our way back to Chennai, after our holiday. Well, at least we saved some fun for next time!
We had booked a stay at La Villa, located in the heart of the French Quarter or the 'White Town', as it is colloquially called. La Villa is opposite the Lycée Francais – a bright mustard-coloured building on Rue Surcouf. As we exited our taxi, we were tired from the long journey. The grey gates of La Villa held the promise of shade and peace. From the time we entered its leafy courtyard, this 100-year-old bungalow welcomed us with open arms. It had cool white walls, authentic athangadi tiles, wicker furniture, and luxurious fittings, all of which created an ambience reminiscent of period novels and old-world charm
La Villa has only six suites, making it perfectly suited to romantic escapades or small groups looking for a quiet interlude. No children below the age of 16 are allowed. This is another deciding factor for those looking for the perfect place to rest, recuperate, and renew the romance. The four of us lucked out – we got two of the three suites on the first floor. We skipped past the compact pool that stretched near our front door to reach the suites. The rooms were surrounded by verdant foliage and comfy lounge furniture – perfect for the evening cocktails that we were anticipating. La Villa's designers have cleverly used large and spacious rooms to create a sense of indulgence. Local artefacts and handicrafts blend effortlessly with modern amenities. Plug points are built into platform beds, lamps double up as art installations, and there are walk-in rain showers.
My suite was called 'Timeless', and it was huge. There was a large bed with a fluffy mattress and blindingly white linen. It shared space with a wooden armoire, a kitschy wooden ‘tree’, and a traditional charpoy painted an untraditional silver. Wooden French doors led to a large verandah. Here, sheer white curtains fluttered around white marble pillars. A daybed fought for attention with an orb-like rattan swing. The other suite was slightly smaller with a more compact terrace, but the bathroom was larger. It also had a welcoming lounge/work area with a writing desk and coffee table. The vibe could inspire you to create something.
Days at La Villa passed by in a haze. We could have breakfast (included in the tariff) in the courtyard restaurant or our room, so we chose to take it on our verandah. Each morning, we awoke to the brilliant sight of our coffee table. It would be laden with fresh croissants, baguettes, fruit bowls with yoghurt and honey, platters of local artisanal cheeses, eggs made to order, fresh juices, and filter coffee or masala chai. No wonder our breakfasts lasted an hour! They ended in a stupor that only another nap could remedy. We also tried the highly touted hotel restaurant. We enjoyed a refreshing mango and chicken salad and an adequate club sandwich by the pool one afternoon. Each room had a complimentary mini-bar that was replenished daily. It was stocked with miniatures of all the favourites: beer, coffee, tea, biscuits, wafers, and nuts. We could splurge to our heart’s content without breaking the bank. The reason for this generosity was that the hotel was still waiting for its alcohol licence. Well, we weren't complaining!
We didn't only eat, sleep, and drink. We also managed to leave the hotel. We walked the French-named streets, admiring the brightly coloured villas and restored houses. But the heat and humidity took their toll. We often cut short our walks to run back to La Villa, or we popped into one of the other boutique hotels. We dined at Palais de Mahe one night, feasting on traditional dishes such as fish moilee and prawn pepper fry with appams. We also had an excellent dinner at Buddha by the Bay – an Asian-inspired rooftop restaurant overlooking the Bay of Bengal. The restaurant prides itself on its enviable position on Goubert Avenue, otherwise known as the Promenade. The Promenade is home to morning walkers, evening time-passers, and tourists looking for the ‘real’ Pondicherry. It is wide, exceptionally clean, and a perfect way to spend an evening.
At Buddha by the Bay, we enjoyed their experimental cocktails, better-than-average sushi, and dim sums. But we should have avoided the nasi goreng (more like fried rice) and basil cheesecake (more like baked custard). Still, we enjoyed the cool sea breeze and the party vibe. Another lunch worthy of a mention was at Le Club. This cafe is located around the corner from La Villa. It looks like a beach hut with a thatched roof and cane furniture. The alcohol prices were on the higher side. But the menu had many continental staples such as steak and fries, prawns in white sauce, and chicken à la Kyiv. It was perfect for a lazy brunch.
We visited Auroville one morning. We hired a car for half a day and then walked to see the iconic Golden Globe or Matrimandir. The principles on which Auroville was built remain inspirational. The township is startlingly clean and green. The visitor’s centre and a few shops sold handmade soaps and incense. However, I was a bit disappointed and thought it was not worth the effort. Maybe we should have taken a guide for a proper visit. Note to self for the next trip! Speaking of the next trip, there were many things we didn’t get to do in Pondicherry. We merely glossed over the Aurobindo Ashram and library in town. We didn’t venture too far into the Tamil Quarter, where one can find delightful antiques and traditional food. We also skipped the beaches that have their own set of charms. All this could be saved for another time. What mattered was that we succeeded in accomplishing our original purpose – celebrating three unadulterated days of friendship, fun, and food!
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