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Losar festival: Experience the ancient rituals of the Buddhists in Ladakh

Watching age-old traditions come alive in Leh.

Amidst the breathtaking landscapes of Leh, I witnessed the vibrancy of the Losar festival. This ancient festival is rooted in the rich history and mythology of the region. As I joined the joyous celebrations, I immersed myself in the rich tapestry of cultural traditions and spiritual rituals. In late February, I embarked on a flight from Delhi to Leh to partake in the festival. Leh, at the time, was marked by intense cold, with the temperature dropping to minus 15°C at night. The daytime conditions were equally unforgiving as the temperature rose to only 8°C. Nonetheless, my determination to witness and photograph the festival remained steadfast. Taking a day to rest and acclimatise to the high altitude, I readied myself for the upcoming day to fully immerse in the festivities.

History and Mythology

Losar means 'New Year' in the Tibetan language. Celebrated by Tibetan and Ladakhi communities, it traces its origins to the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. This practice later assimilated into Tibetan Buddhism. The festival holds great significance—it marks the beginning of a new agricultural year and a fresh cycle of life. It is believed that during Losar, good triumphs over evil, and the earth rejuvenates itself—a time to welcome a year of prosperity and abundance.

The Festivity

The festival was a sensory feast that unfolded over three days. Each day had its own unique significance. Here's a glimpse of how the event transpired. On the first day, known as Lama Losar, the air was thick with anticipation and reverence. Tibetan Buddhists gathered to pay homage to their dharma teacher, expressing gratitude for the wisdom and guidance bestowed upon them. Losar celebrations involve making butter, brewing chang (barley wine), preparing pork and mutton dishes, cooking guthuk soup and dough balls, and more. Traditionally, sprouted barley seeds and buckets of tsampa (roasted barley flour with butter) and other grains are offered on home altars to ensure a good harvest. Amidst the ceremonial rituals, I marvelled at the profound devotion exhibited by the lamas. Their offerings to the high dharma protectors resonated with profound spiritual energy.

It infused the surroundings with a sense of sacredness. The second day, i.e., Gyalpo Losar, honoured the spirit of community work. This day is devoted to recognising the efforts of those who selflessly contribute to the betterment of society. In reverence to historical customs, the day echoed the tradition of kings distributing gifts during public festivals. The streets buzzed with joy as individuals and organisations were acknowledged for their valuable contributions. It fostered a spirit of unity and gratitude. On the third day, known as Choe-Kyong Losar, the atmosphere took on a mystical aura. People came together to make special offerings to the dharma protectors. They sought blessings and guidance for the year ahead. Prayer flags fluttered proudly from mountain peaks and rooftops. The air was heady with the scent of burning juniper leaves and incense sticks. The day was a blend of spiritual purification and reverence.

Amidst the festivities, I saw the enchanting Cham dance at the Hemis Monastery. Adorned in elaborate costumes and masks, the monks moved with grace and precision. It is believed that they embody deities and spiritual beings. The rhythmic beats of drums and cymbals filled the air. My mind moved to a realm where the sacred and the artistic intertwined. It was a visual spectacle that left an indelible impression; a testament to the rich cultural heritage preserved within these ancient walls. The climax of the Losar festival was marked by the dramatic display of the "Metho" or "Fire Devouring" ritual. With great reverence, the lamas offered prayers and lit a massive bonfire. This symbolised the destruction of negativity and the purification of the soul. As the flames flickered and danced against the starry night sky, a sense of serenity and hope enveloped the entire gathering.

The Food

Throughout the festival, the aroma of traditional Ladakhi cuisine wafted through the air. To celebrate the abundance and prosperity for the year ahead, the food included "guthuk" (a hearty soup with dumplings), "paba" (roasted barley flour), and "khura" (butter tea). All these items delighted my taste buds. There was also an exchange of "khata" (silk scarves) between friends and family members. This is said to be a gesture of goodwill and solidarity. Witnessing the Losar festival in Leh was a wonderful journey into the heart of Ladakhi culture and spirituality. The festival's historical significance and mythical roots added depth and meaning to the celebration. As I bid farewell to Leh, I carried with me the memories of the Cham dances, the joyful laughter and the spirit of unity.

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