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Every Irani cafe has its own little story and one-of-a-kind treats.
Britannia & Co was started in 1923 by Roshan Kohinoor and is arguably the most popular cafe in the city. Every now and then, I still go back to gorge on the beri pulao and sali boti, concluding the feast with their perfectly sweetened caramel custard. Over the past decade, as a self-proclaimed foodie and culture lover, I've been captivated by numerous Irani cafes in Mumbai. Many of these charming establishments have become my go-to places, especially for breakfast. When I was a student at St. Xavier's College, I stumbled upon Kyani & Co during my walk to the college from Marine Lines station. It was the whiff of chai that drew me to what many say is the city’s oldest Iranian cafe. Mornings at Kyani’s were always a busy affair. There were plates of bun maska slathered with butter on almost every table along with cups of chai. This combination was heavenly, especially at the start of the day. Over the years, I explored the other items on their menu—the chicken farcha, keema pav, and rum ball were ordered almost every time. Even today, my best friend and I, although knee-deep in the corporate world, are happy to make an early morning trip to Kyani’s for their sweet and milky chai and delectable bun maska.
Another Irani cafe, not as far out in South Bombay, is Koolar and Co. It is right by King’s Circle, Matunga. I first visited the cafe after spotting it in the movie, The Lunchbox. I am not sure what I find more fascinating at Koolar—the bun maska called brun maska or its cheesy variant. Either way, both have been perfect accompaniments to the cafe’s chai and omelette. When in Bombay, especially South Bombay, we are spoilt for choice. Not too far away from Kyani & Co is Sassanian Boulangerie. When I was in college, I made weekly visits to take home their plum cakes and chicken patties. On a few occasions, I have sat at the cafe, which was once known to be a pitstop for Iranian jockeys before their polo matches. It’s said that in 1960, the basic goods store turned into the famous cafe it is today. My regular stops often included a helping of its lagan nu custard, a must-try.
For many, visiting an Irani cafe is not just about the culinary delights but a journey to connect with Mumbai's cultural heritage. Some time ago, I had the opportunity to attend a photo exhibition and discourse titled 'Histories of Bombay' at Café Dela Paix, carried out by Anushka Gupta—a historian, poet, and storyteller. The owner of the cafe, Gustaad Irani, was present during the talk, and spoke at length about the history of the establishment. He mentioned how the cafe's former Francophile landlord insisted that it be named after the iconic one in Paris. Pitching in, Gupta indulged attendees with snippets of stories about Bombay, reminding us all how Irani cafes like Gigaum's Café Dela Paix give this bustling city so much character. I haven’t visited the cafe since Gupta’s exhibition. But I am pretty sure that my next visit will include a chat with Irani about his stories of Bombay over a cup of mint tea and a plate of khaari biscuits.
My first thought, when I saw the exterior of Yazdani Bakery in Fort, was that it looked nothing like the other Irani cafes. A Google search later, I found that it was built in the early 20th century and used to be a Japanese bank. In 1950, Meherwan Zend established the bakery, named after the city of Yazd in Iran, where his grandfather hailed from. The bakery delighted customers with its assortment of bread, chai, and baked goodies. Today, visitors can't get enough of Yazdani's apple pies and mawa cakes. And of course this... A trip to Yazdani is incomplete without a photograph of the bakery's exterior, whose colours evoke a nostalgic charm reminiscent of Wes Anderson movies. When I look up the history of Irani cafes in Bombay, I am told that until the 1980s, there was a cafe at the corner of every bustling street—maybe even close to 400. However, today, the list of authentic Irani cafes in the city is limited to a couple of dozen. Apart from the ones I frequently visit, there are other establishments worth mentioning.
Cafe Excelsior serves up a mean salli boti while Cafe Military is a must-visit for their delectable chicken biryani and refreshing Kangaroo beer. The latter has a star-studded history of visitors including M. F. Husain, Nutan, and Sharmila Tagore. The sweetest jam puffs can be found at B. Merwan & Co, which sits right opposite Grant Road Station. Jimmy Boy, located in Horniman Circle, has been a long favourite of those who love their seven-course wedding thali. From their vintage furniture to tiled floors, checkered tablecloths, high ceilings, and the constant fragrance of bun and chai, the Irani cafes in Mumbai are places where history comes alive.
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