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The aroma of baked goodies is simply irresistible. And the fascinating stories behind Mumbai's oldest bakeries make the experience even more delightful.
I have always been a fan of vintage recipes. I often find myself yearning for these tried and tested recipes enjoyed by many generations. It was the charm of these old-world delights that took me to the bylanes of Mumbai.
To my delight, I found several nondescript yet evergreen bakeries, beckoning me on a culinary and cultural extravaganza! These historic bakeries are more than just places to savour baked goodies. They embody pure emotion, connecting generations and cultures. Many were started decades ago by their owners to pursue their dreams. Today, they stand proud and tall, iconic of their die-hard spirit!
So, this is how I spent a day out in Mumbai on a food spree, gorging my way through the offerings at these bakeries. It was a delightful experience and left an indelible mark on my memories.
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Tucked away in a small alley in Bandra, A1 Bakery is hardly what I'd call fancy. The place has a subdued aura, yet the aroma of maska and mawa had me glued to the place!
Owned by the Fernandes family, A1 Bakery is a landmark near the Holy Family Hospital that dates back many decades. As I waited for my milkshakes to be whipped up and served, I struck up a conversation with the elderly brothers, Melvin D'Sa and Steven. Melvin and Steven regaled me with tales of their father, J Hearsch, a passionate German baker who took over the small shop in the 1960s.
As the story goes, a Colaba baker called Sophia Fernandes later took over operations from Hearsch. She was formerly the owner of Connaught Bakery in Colaba. Hearsh decided to return to Germany and handed over his labour of love to Sophia.
Fast forward to the present times, I learned how the staff at A1 Bakery wake up early to knead, bake, and fry delicious delicacies. As I slurped my milkshake and relished the yummy mawa cake, I remembered my college days and the long lines in the evenings to taste their famous puffs. The chicken rolls here are hard to beat and the taste has remained the same over the years. My list of favourites here includes croquettes, patties, French loaves, and mutton chops.
Looking around, I watched early morning walkers making a beeline for the bakery. Many of them sat on the large rocks strewn around, enjoying the delicious treats. The relaxed and informal vibe made me feel so at home.
After my early morning refreshments, I decided to visit another eclectic place, situated just a stone’s throw away. With an aura that harks back to 100 years ago, this classic bakery belongs to the Carvalho family. Francesco Carvalho started the bakery in 1908 to share his love for food and baking.
I ordered a blueberry cheesecake and apple pie. As I waited for my order, I chatted with the staff here. An interesting fact came to light – can you guess? The bakery derives its name from the speedy delivery of its goods to American cruise ships!
While waiting for my order, I couldn't resist packing some fruit and nut biscotti and cinnamon rolls. I still remember the plum rum cake and lemon tarts I ordered for Christmas last year. They were excellent!
Next, I headed to South Mumbai to indulge in the timeless culinary delights of Yazdani Bakery. I have always been a fan of Parsi food, and I was eager to explore the goodies at this traditional bakery tucked away in the by-lanes of the fort.
The moment I stepped inside, I was greeted by the irresistible aroma of freshly baked goodies. The rustic setting lends a vintage charm to the place. Yazdani Bakery dates from 1953 when a Parsi baker, named Meherwan Zend, started baking to make a living.
As I took a seat in the restaurant, I noticed the constant chaos and humdrum that seemed to add a unique character to the place. People were dipping khari cookies into their mint-scented cups of Irani chai while buttery bun maska was being enjoyed over freewheeling conversations. I observed people around me and was fascinated to see someone quickly finishing a fresh cake. The person was perhaps taking a sweet break before resuming the day’s work!
As I savoured my favourite chai, I noticed a plaque declaring Yazdani Bakery as an "Urban Heritage Monument" in 2007. I finished the warm and crumbly apple pie and continued my journey.
It was almost lunchtime. Even after indulging in quite a few sweet treats, I was still up for a lunchtime snack. All the walking along Mumbai's lanes had surely worked up my appetite! After a short walk towards Churchgate, I arrived at Gaylord and joined the long queue for my turn.
Originally known for its bakery, Gaylord shot to fame for starting the concept of fine dining in South Mumbai. It gained popularity when India’s film icon, Raj Kapoor, started frequenting this place in the evenings with Shanker Jaykishan to compose music.
Gaylord offers an array of cuisines, especially Continental and its fine-dining setup is suitable for family outings and gatherings.
I indulged in the flaky richness of their croissant, followed by their classic chicken kebab, which were both so tasty! Afterwards, I took a short walk enjoying the sea breeze on Marine Drive.
Although I was already feeling quite full, I decided to visit Kyani and Co. The old wooden décor captured my attention and spoke of the cafe's Irani roots. I'd read that the Zoroastrians had migrated from Iran during the 19th and 20th centuries. Kyani and Co. is proof of their love for exquisite food.
Since 1904, Kyani has been standing tall for its quality and old-world charm. Khodram Marezaban established this cafe to woo Mumbaikars with hearty Parsi food. The red chequered tablecloths and glass jars filled to the brim with baked goodies gave off traditional Parsi vibes.
I made myself comfortable at Kyani for a mid-evening tea and ordered kheema pav to go with it. The owner came over to ask me if I enjoyed the food which added a personal touch to my visit.
Kyani is not just a food culture, but a historic institution in its own right. The cafe served as a venue for freedom fighters who held meetings of national importance here. The timeless portraits of British-era Mumbai here are impressive. I was fascinated to see the portrait of Aflatoon Shokri, the father of the current owner, signed by none other than MF Hussain!
My culinary tour came to an end and it was time for me to go back home. My hands were full of packets of food I had picked up from all of these superb bakeries. Despite being stuffed, I couldn't help but pick up these goodies. I can't wait to return to these bakeries for more of these treats!
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