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Musings from Mukteshwar

A picturesque destination in Uttarakhand for a quiet, soulful holiday

My friend and I decided its time we sought peace and calm, away from the daily grind! We were looking for a less crowded place with cleaner air. That's when someone recommended Mukteshwar — a scenic and quaint destination in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Mukteshwar is not as famous as its nearby counterparts like Nainital or Mussoorie as it was yet to be exploited by tourism.


Mukteshwar was known as Muktesar during the British Raj. It was renamed Mukteshwar following independence. The town was named after a local temple called Mukteshwar Dham. Mukti means eternal life and Ishwar means God in Sanskrit. 

Table of Contents:

  • Finding beauty inside a window
  • In a mesmerising world of mist
  • In a temple and among the houses
  • How to reach Mukteshwar by flight

Finding beauty inside a window

We decided to travel from Delhi to Mukteshwar by road. The drive through the coniferous forests was picturesque and offered many Instagram-worthy moments. We took many photo breaks to click pictures of the enchanting valley en route.


Finally, we reached our destination after a 6-hour drive. We had booked a villa through Airbnb. Our room had an enviable view from the balcony.


I woke up early to see the sunrise, which reflected the beauty of this destination. The view of the mountains was hazy due to the foggy weather. However, it was amazing to watch the sun rising from behind the mountains. Mukteshwar is about 8,000 ft from sea level, and Its topography is beautiful and offers magnificent views of the Himalayas.


The tranquillity of the place is magical. It is not surprising that Mukteshwar received its stamp of approval from none other than Jim Corbett. This famous British hunter, naturalist, and writer, mentioned Mukteshwar in his book The Temple Tiger. 


We decided to go for a short trek through the fruit orchards after breakfast. June is the harvest season and the best time to see the orchards in full glory. Apples, plums, peaches and apricots are commonly grown here.


We found a lemon orchard with ripe lemons hanging from trees, ready to be plucked. The size of the lemons gave the phrase ‘When life gives you lemons, make lemonade’ a twist to make it ‘When Mukteshwar gives you lemons, make lemonade for the whole village.’ Seeing the glee in my eyes, the owner of the orchard generously offered us fresh lemons from a tree. 


Giddy over lemons the size of melons, we drove to Bhalu Gaad Waterfall, our next destination. This waterfall is near Dhari Village, about 7 km from Mukteshwar. Bhalu Gaad is about 60 ft high.

In a mesmerising world of mist

I purchased entry tickets at the gate. I was informed that bathing in the waterfall is not allowed during rainy seasons. The water levels are high during this time. Only summers are suitable for such activities.


We began a mini trek of about a kilometre to the waterfall after purchasing tickets. The trek involved transversing ups and downs on the hilly terrain and crossing bridges. We found many refreshment joints en route selling quick bites like corn cob, Maggi and lemon juice.


The walk to the waterfall was physically challenging. We were greeted by a double rainbow at the waterfall, making the place even more magical. The water was crystal clear and we spotted small fish in the stream. We dipped our feet in the clear water and sat on a rock to admire the view and sound of the waterfall.


We were hungry after our trek back to the car from the waterfall. Locals suggested local Kumaoni food for our hungry stomachs. We visited Café Chandi Mati for an authentic Kumaoni thali (platter). It was a multi-cuisine cafe that specialises in local Kumaoni cuisine. The restaurant had a hilly vibe with an outdoor seating area offering marvellous views.


The Kumaoni thali was mouthwatering. The platter included a ragi roti, aloo sabzi with Kumaoni raita, and black Kumaoni dal. Each item had a distinct flavour and brought something new to my palate with each morsel. We enjoyed natural jaggery cubes for dessert.


After a satisfying lunch, we visited an interesting NGO commercial outlet named Kilmora for retail therapy. The shop sold woollen garments, toys, honey, local pickles, jams and oils. We picked up local pickles and woollen items and decided to head back to our villa for dinner. The nights in Mukteshwar are starry and balmy. The silence in the valley added to the charm of the place.

In a temple and among the houses

The following day, we visited the 350-year-old Mukteshwar Temple or Shiv Temple. The main deity of the temple is Lord Shiva, and the sacred shrine holds immense religious significance among the locals and the people of Uttarakhand.


Mukteshwar Temple is at a vantage point from where we could view the peaks touching the sky. The Shivling was made of white marble and copper and was surrounded by the idols of Brahma, Vishnu, Parvati, Hanuman, Ganesh, and Nandi. 


We headed on foot to Sitla after visiting the temple. Sitla is a hill station close to Mukteshwar, surrounded by oak and cedar forests. It offered panoramic views of the Himalayas, including Nanda Devi, India’s second-highest peak. We walked by narrow village roads lined with cherry blossom trees in full bloom.


The houses were brightly coloured in shades of yellow, green, red, and orange. The people of this region are warm and greeted us with friendly smiles. Some stood outside their homes and waved at us. The children were forthcoming and posed with us for selfies. The adults were busy with chores like laying chillies for drying, knitting woollen clothes, and managing cattle.


The children were busy playing under the bright sun. Walking through the village was therapeutic. It reminded me of the joys of childhood and a simple life devoid of traffic signs and deadlines. This is probably the reason many tourists are now building homes here. Mukteshwar also offers adventure sports activities like paragliding, river crossing, camping, and many more.


En route to our villa, we stopped at a local cafe for croissants and cookies to end our trip on a sweet note. Mukteswar may not be on most people's travel bucket lists. However, it deserves a place on the list of destinations for soul searching. This place is full of heart and soul!

How to reach Mukteshwar by flight

The nearest airport to Mukteshwar is Pantnagar, about 100 km away. The closest international airport is Delhi International Airport. The distance between Delhi Airport and Mukteshwar is approximately 350 km. Taxis are available for rent from Delhi and Pantnagar airport to travel to Mukteshwar.

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