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An exploration of Goa’s idyllic villages
I think I’m in love. All my symptoms point to it. I'm giddy with excitement, and my palms are sweating. I can't sit still and couldn't sleep the last couple of nights in anticipation of what is to come. The object of my affection is not a person, it's a place, and it’s not just me. I look around the aeroplane, and most fellow flyers share my wide grin. The energy in the cabin is electric when we touch wheels on the Sunshine State.
Goa is not just a holiday destination, it’s a state of mind. Ask anyone you meet if they’ve been to Goa, and chances are they’ll say yes or, at the very least, lay out their plans to travel to Goa soon. There are many reasons why Goa is always on everyone’s wish list and why some, like me, make it an annual trip. One of the primary reasons is the natural bounty it shares so generously with visitors. With 103 km of coastline, the Arabian Sea is a constant companion; you are never too far from a beach in Goa.
But this trip for me isn't just about the beaches. I'm here to discover another side of this state, a greener, quieter side devoid of over-enthusiastic, chaotic crowds and drunken revellers. I have had the good fortune of living in Goa for three years during my sabbatical. It was then that I tasted the local flavours. If you want to get up close and personal, you must find the Goa that lives in its villages.
Today, I’m returning to Saligao, the village I stayed for three blissful years. As my taxi leaves the traffic of the main road and turns into a nondescript lane opposite a tiny chapel, I feel a sense of homecoming. We drive past lush paddy fields and down little lanes that zig-zag towards a homestay that will be my base for the next couple of days.
The first thing I do, even before lugging my bags into the room, is call a bike rental service. This is rule number one if you want to switch to a holiday mode here and the best way to explore every nook and cranny of the villages. Once I’ve changed into something comfortable and swapped my shoes for flip-flops, off I go on the bike to grab breakfast at my favourite snack shop.
I believe the best way to experience the culture of a city is through its food. Saligao Deck, near Mae De Deus Church, is just the place to do so, and it has been a local’s favourite for decades. This street-side stall dishes out humble Goan fare not found in restaurants anywhere else. I order a ros omelette, a classic breakfast in most Goan homes; a hot omelette dunked into the ros, or gravy, made from a blend of coconut and ground spices. It is served with the local bread called poie, baked fresh for the day.
Vegetarian options are also available, with the omelette substituted with white peas, rajma beans or mushrooms. Munching on a piece of poie dipped in gravy is one of the best ways to start your day here.
Sated and content with my meal, I make my way to the gorgeous Mae De Deus Church, standing proudly across the street. As I approach the edifice, I marvel at the imposing Gothic façade, the arched entrances, the coconut trees peeking out from the back and the lush lawn. When I step inside, it feels like I’m in a castle rather than a church. The pristine white walls offer a lovely contrast to the geometric patterns that adorn the flooring. There’s an aura of calm and reverence within the cool interiors. More gilded details come into view as I approach the majestic altar. I take a seat in one of the pews and lose track of time, feasting on every minute detail of this grand structure.
After I exit the church, I make my way to the beach, a 10-minute ride from the church. I reach Calangute beach to find it dotted with umbrellas, beach chairs, shacks and the usual trappings of a commercial beach. I stroll by the sea and fill my lungs with fresh air. Slipping off my flip-flops, I follow the shoreline towards Candolim beach, which is slightly less touristy, and plop down on the sand. As the waves crash repeatedly and rhythmically, my mind is empty of all thoughts, except lunch! I have just the place in mind, away from the hodgepodge of mass-market restaurants serving awful versions of Goan food.
I head to Florentine Bar & Restaurant in Saligao, which has hands down the most authentic and flavourful chicken cafreal you will ever taste. Juicy chunks of chicken are marinated in a coriander-poppy seeds paste before cooking in a pan until an amalgamation of flavours rises. This rustic dish is served with hot poie. Pair it with a chilled pint of beer and you’re in heaven. After this indulgent lunch, I understand why Goans take their afternoon siestas seriously.
After a lazy afternoon, I stretch my legs by a walk to the Museum of Goa in Pilerne, close to Saligao. The museum showcases the state’s vibrant history and culture through eclectic installations, quirky sculptures, and gorgeous art. Founded by Goan artist Subodh Kelkar the museum also regularly hosts workshops, art and music festivals and cultural events. Before your visit, go through the event calendar on their website.
Come nighttime, all roads lead to Cantare, the village pub in Saligao. This quaint, cosy bar offers great music, good food and a charming vibe. Every Monday is Jazz Night, attended mainly by locals and a few tourists. If you’re planning to go, reach early and snag a table before the place gets crowded.
The Saligao Institute, behind Cantare, organises the Made In Saligao market every Tuesday. It’s a veritable feast of baked goodies, local snacks, homemade wines, pickles, chorizo, sweets, doilies, arts and crafts, and more. Saligao is a close-knit community, and the market is a chance for the local families to catch up. Everyone is friendly, and they welcome anyone who respects their customs and traditions.
Another village where you can soak up local culture is Quepem. Palacio de Deao in Quepem is a 200-year-old mansion built in Indo-Portuguese fashion. Ancient trees, ferns, flowering plants, creepers, birds and butterflies abound in this sprawling 11,000 sqft property. A sweeping staircase welcomes me into the mansion. I roam from room to room, soaking in the architecture and decorations of this heritage. It also has a library and a restaurant that serves fantastic Indo-Portuguese food.
Another gem near Quepem village is the Dudhsagar Plantations, a spice farm where you can spend the day or a few nights. Day packages include lunch, tea and snacks, a spice tour, and free use of the natural pool. I chose to stay the night in one of their minimal but beautiful cottages.
Wrapped in earthy colours, my cottage is set amid the plantation with a constant cacophony of birds and crickets. It’s the most relaxed I’ve felt in a long time. After checking in, I opt for the Spice Tour, where I follow the guide past towering coconut and areca nut trees, stopping now and then as he plucks a leaf and holds it out for me to smell or taste and identify. We sample peppercorns plucked straight from the vine and inhale the sweet fragrance of cinnamon bark freshly scraped from the tree.
I check out early the next day and head to Dudhsagar Falls. A jeep takes me through the Bhagwan Mahaveer National Park to the bottom of the falls. The thundering four-tiered waterfall is truly a sight to behold. Sign up with a tour company that will take care of the logistics and keep you free to enjoy the sights at leisure. Set aside half a day for this visit, as it takes a while to get there and back.
Goa's delights are varied and plentiful, and it's easy to immerse yourself in the local culture — a unique amalgamation of Portuguese and Indian. Next time, skip the touristy crowds and meet the real Goa instead.
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