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The little French pocket of South India brought two travellers together, transforming what appeared to be a simple holiday into the beginning of a lifetime of romance.
Pondicherry's morning leaked through the cracks of my curtains. The baroque corridors of Villa Mon Chéri, my residential sanctuary in the city, were embraced by the gentle warmth of the sun. The red and green hues surrounding me felt like a warm welcome. Soon I was stumbling out the door, stuffing my backpack while mentally planning my day. White Town's cafes, art shops and bazaars beckoned me, and I wanted to make the most of my trip. Any exhaustion I felt from the flight and the drive from Chennai quickly dissipated, and was replaced by a growing eagerness to explore.
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In my rush to get out, I walked right into someone, making his bags tumble. No harsh words were exchanged. Apologising profusely, I assisted him with his bags to his room. He offered to accompany me to breakfast in exchange for helping him settle in. I accepted, excited to be in the company of someone new. Le Jardin Suffren was the perfect spot for breakfast in Pondicherry. As we waited for our crépes and omelettes— while sipping on our coffees—I learned that he, Jacob, was from a little town in Italy. Jacob had covered much of India in the last two years and his adventures were still going strong. He talked about Ladakh's snow and Meghalaya's forests, and how excited he was to finally booze up in Goa, where he was headed after Pondicherry.
After breakfast, we set out to find a bike rental store. I told him about my first-ever solo trip to Singapore and how I was more foolhardy and brave at 17 than 24. He laughed and said I am still braver than I think. We rented our bikes and parted ways, hoping to see each other around. I rode my bike to Tasmai Art Center, reminiscing about breakfast and how our conversation flowed naturally. At Tasmai, I spent time gazing at beautiful artworks created by artists who have spent their lives in Pondicherry. Keiko Mima's watercolour paintings of flowers with delicate gradations, Akmal Hussain's rural farm portrayals and Ejoumale D's life-like momentary stills were my favourite pieces from the gallery.
As an student of literature, the Romain Rolland Library was a must-visit spot on my list of places to visit in Pondicherry. The library had a vast collection of French, Tamil and English books. I eventually settled for a Jhumpa Lahiri novel that kept me engrossed for a few hours. As evening approached, I made my way to the outdoor verandah of the library to journal about my day. Right before I sat down, I caught sight of a familiar face from the corner of my eye. Jacob's teal kurta made him stand out against the sunny backdrop of the verandah. Hunched over, nose-deep in a thick book, he had to be snapped out of his concentration. A look of pleasant surprise was soon followed by playful banter; we decided to grab an early dinner together.
At Chitra's Cuisine, plates of Prawns Koliwada and Garlic Paneer disappeared just as quickly as they arrived as Jacob and I discussed our day. I rambled about the art exhibitions at Tasmai, and Jacob listened patiently with a gleam in his eye. He told me about his afternoon at Kerala Ayurveda and how their spa and massage had seemed to revitalise every fibre of his being followed by a visit to Romain Rolland. The next day, I was greeted by Jacob pacing back and forth outside my room, waiting to ask if I would like to join him for breakfast. I took him up on his offer, and even asked him to accompany me to Chunnambar for the day.
We made a quick stop at Le Petit Four to pick up breakfast. Armed with a cold coffee, a strawberry milkshake, a croissant, and chicken sandwiches, we made our way to the Chunnambar River for boat rides and thrilling water sports. I was terrified to try the jet ski ride, but Jacob encouraged me. He laughed at how I squealed on our jet ski ride together and almost tipped our kayak over to scare me. However, his child-like teasing, delivered with an endearing gentleness, was quite appealing. He stayed close when the banana ride dropped us into the depths of the river, keeping me calm in my moments of panic. Later, I watched as he clumsily devoured fish gravy with his hand while animatedly talking about a family trip. Watching him while he spoke, I realised that this chance meeting seemed to be heading towards more than just a simple friendship.
Jacob and I agreed that the following day would be a time for relaxation and rejuvenation. Our first destination was the renowned Cafe Des Arts, nestled in the heart of White Town. Jacob appeared as I stepped out of my room, his warm smile accompanied by a delicate bouquet of vibrant sunflowers. The butterflies in my stomach danced with joy, embracing the moment with pure bliss. The antique, Dravidian facáde of Cafe Des Art had a very artsy feel. Over coffee, banana crepes and ham sandwiches, Jacob and I conjured up a game that involved creating stories about the people who sat around us. We spent the afternoon discussing my stories from Mumbai. Jacob's face amusingly contorted into shock, laughter, worry and adoration when I told him about the shenanigans my friends and I get up to. We downed two glasses of mango lassi before leaving for a stroll around White Town.
White Town has an overwhelming number of handicraft and clothing stores. Amidst trials and rejections of kurtas and scarves at stores like Meraki and Anokhi, the end of our trip slowly crept up on us. The wooden and ceramic souvenirs we bought from La Tienda and Craft Bazaar clunked together like a clock ticking on the future of this little romance. We watched the sunset over the horizon of Promenade Beach, writing little notes to each other—neither of us trying to hide our sorrow anymore. Jacob accompanied me to my room and expressed gratitude for the wonderful time he had with me on this trip. In return, I wished him the best for his upcoming adventures. It was time to return home and share the story of Pondicherry with my friends.
My story of Pondicherry ends with Jacob waiting outside Mon Chéri, his bags stacked up neatly and a taxi ready to leave. Like a romantic comedy, he said he just could not leave in regret. I came to Pondicherry not knowing what to expect, and left, finding the missing piece of my life that would enrich it infinitely.
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