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In the streets of Pondicherry, friendship finds you in the vibrant colours of the town, its quirky cafes and one-of-a-kind experiences.
Right when I was preparing for a solo trip to South India, the pandemic disrupted my plans. As soon as the world got back on its feet again, I booked my flight to the one destination that championed my travel bucket list—Pondicherry. I was welcomed by evening showers in Chennai, not uncharacteristic of South India in October. Though the airport is now operational, the drive to Pondicherry on the East Coast Road is unmissable. The road looks daunting on gloomy evenings, but the two-hour drive is straight out of a movie, especially if you love driving. If not, you could book a taxi at the airport. Pondicherry has several accommodation options in White Town. However, for my stay, I booked an Airbnb that was centrally placed between White Town and Auroville. I also befriended a fat cat on the premises!
Pondicherry is made up of a bouquet of cafes, each with its own little quirk. On this trip, I made it my mission to eat at as many cafes as possible. Lured by its rustic, Chettinad-style interiors, I began my first day with breakfast at Cafe Crepe In Touch. The experience was elevated by the kitchen's thick, creamy iced coffee accompanied by sugary crepes served with fruits. As a Tamilian myself, the cafe felt like home, all thanks to its verandah seating under shady trees, purple and pink floral paintings on vibrant walls and bohemian-like seating. The walk-in store was the cherry on top—I purchased journals bound with handmade bamboo paper and hippie-style bags that I now carry everywhere.
After breakfast, I headed to the Cluny Embroidery Center. The Center is a convent that has been working for women's employment welfare, and has been in operation since the 1800s. Women masterfully work at making crocheted needlework items to regional tunes. I treated myself to bedsheets and pillow covers, and now spend the moments before bedtime admiring the craftsmanship of the handicrafts. Lunch was at PY Cafe and Restaurant. My meal was quick, but I took time for selfies and food photography amidst the cafe's pink and teal interiors. The modern pinks were a nice contrast to the antique(ish) decor. I ordered a chicken sandwich, which disappeared just as quickly as it came. Though I had only a passing moment in PY, the cafe is perfect for a large group of friends to pass the time playing board games. Keep an eye out for the event board at the cafe! Before I headed back for the day, I went out to Promenade Beach for a breather. My loyal companion was my journal. I wrote about my day to the sound of crashing waves. Before I knew it, the sun had set. For dinner, I returned to my room and enjoyed a good old dosa with sambar.
Auroville's reputation for its spiritual experiences is rightly earned. Like any motivated tourist, I visited the Auroville Visitor's Center on day two of my itinerary. Pro tip: The best way to commute around Pondicherry is to rent a bike. There are bike rentals at almost every corner of the town with negotiable rates. Bonus points if you can speak some basic Tamil. The Visitor Center is an exposed brick structure with several cafes serving everything from fruity coolers to Korean gimbap. The highlight of the Visitor Center is Svaram, a museum of musical instruments. The museum is inside a souvenir store selling hand-made journals, toys, pottery and clothes. The staff gave me a tour of the museum and played a note on all the instruments.
The best part of the tour was a little nook in the corner, where I was asked to lie down and close my eyes. Soon enough, the sound of my breath in the quiet room was accompanied by the sound of instruments playing in the room—one even underneath my bed! I spent the rest of the day drinking many cups of tea and talking to a friend I made at the Visitor Center. He was a woodworker of mixed heritage, being part Iranian and part Punjabi. His life in Auroville revolved around his artistry and conducting workshops to impart his skills to others. From him, I learned that people in Auroville start their day as early as 5 am and work only till the afternoon, leaving their evenings to be with their friends and family. The stark contrast between his life in the village and mine in the metropolis sparked profound discussions that completely altered my outlook. Leaving Auroville, I carried with me a transformed worldview that would remain with me for a long time.
The third and last day on my travel itinerary began with brunch at Cafe Des Art. This is one of the largely popular cafes in White Town. The yellow exterior of Cafe Des Arts beckoned me to come in, and I obliged willingly. The outdoor seating area exuded a breezy ambience, with plants adorning every corner and people engrossed in discussions. The aroma of fresh bread wafted through the air, adding to the mellow atmosphere. Everyone who walked in seemed like they were a writer, a painter, or a photographer. The interiors of the cafe exuded a cozy and vintage charm, adorned with just the right touch of nostalgia. My croissant sandwich and watermelon cooler were top-notch. The soft bread almost melted in my mouth and was perfectly complemented by the refreshing drink.
Walking around White Town, I stumbled upon Craft Bazaar. It was time to fill my shopping bags yet again. The Bazaar had a great line-up of stalls selling everything from handmade jewellery to snacks and souvenirs. My favourite pick-up from the Bazaar was the traditional clay and ceramic-infused davara tumbler. I wanted to take home the experience of drinking South Indian filter coffee, which involves mixing it traditionally and pouring the coffee between the tumbler and the wider cup. Since the Bazaar opened into Promenade Beach, I enjoyed a walk along the shoreline before heading to Coromandel Cafe.
Where Cafe Des Arts announces itself, Coromandel Cafe—another popular spot—hides amidst White Town's architecture. Coromandel has an extravagant expanse with lush al fresco seating and a bar, which sets it apart from its sister cafes. Promising to return soon, I said goodbye to Pondicherry with a tall iced latte and their signature blueberry cheesecake. As I cruised down the East Coast Road back to Chennai, Pondicherry bid me farewell with a gentle drizzle. I arrived in this city as a misplaced 19-year-old, and it transformed me into a grounded 24-year-old woman. The entire experience offered me a fresh perspective on life.
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