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The only food guide you'll need in the capital.
My travel escapades have led me to explore the food culture in different regions of India. While planning my trip to Delhi, I wanted to make sure I try all the food the city has to offer. After all, I was in street food heaven. I wanted to explore the oldest, most famous and authentic food joints in Old Delhi and curate a food trail of my own, starting at Jama Masjid and culminating at Chawri Bazaar. That evening, a friend picked me up from my hotel, and off we went towards the noisy streets of Chandni Chowk. Finally, I was here to sample all the delightful flavours of Delhi. We parked near the Lal Qila Market and walked towards the narrow lane beside Jama Masjid.
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First on my list was a rich rosy beverage I had been craving for years—Sharbat-e-Mohabbat—at a shop with the same name. This cool, refreshing drink is a concoction of Rooh Afza (squash), watermelon juice, and juicy melon cubes with just the right amount of sweetness. After a long day of exploring Delhi, this drink was like an elixir and just what I needed to pick me up. My friend isn't a fan of Sharbat and prefers her chai instead. So she took me next door to Haji Tea Point in Matia Mahal. Their most famous offering is the Doodh Ki Patti, a whole-milk tea made without a single drop of water. The first sip revitalised my tastebuds, cutting through the sweetness of the Sharbat. I was now hungry for some food.
We continued to walk past the 17th-century mosque towards Chandni Chowk. The market alleys were lined with jewellery shops that glimmered in the night. As pretty as they looked, my mind was focused solely on satisfying my taste buds. We proceeded towards Dariba Kalan Road and stopped at Natraj Dahi Bhalla, a shop serving the best Dahi Bhallas since 1940! As I looked around, I was fascinated by these popular places that have become institutions, preserving the quality and taste across generations. This dedication has kept their businesses alive for generations. "A plate of Dahi Bhalla, madam," said the sweet man, with a friendly smile, in chaste Hindi.
My friend and I were starving. We ate in complete silence, with the occasional murmur in appreciation of the delicacy. The dish consists of fried lentil fritters soaked in sweet curd, topped with tangy tamarind chutney. Red chilli powder and pomegranate pearls are sprinkled over the top to give it the perfect blend of flavours. It was the most delicious and no-nonsense Dahi Bhalla I've ever had. We crossed the road into an alley brimming with the heavenly aroma of fried Indian bread. This was the legendary Parathe Wali Gali—an entire street lined with stalls selling delicious Parathas with curries and chutneys. Our next stop was at the end of the street—Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala, a tiny stall serving Kachoris since 1971. I ordered my favourite Pyaaz Kachori, served with their signature kachalu chutney, which elevated the flavour to the next level. If you're wondering why I didn't stop for some parathas... I had to hold myself back—one paratha and I would be full, and wouldn't be able to sample anything else.
Back at Dariba corner, we went to Old Famous Jalebi Wala. I was excited to taste the freshly-fried hot Jalebis dunked in sugar syrup. We asked for the minimum order of 100 gm and devoured it in no time. This place had been recommended to me by many people, and I could see why. I was starting to feel full, but thankfully, the stroll to our next stop, down Chandni Chowk, helped me rebuild my appetite for Delhi's next popular street snack—Samosas.
Shiv Misthan Bhandar was not on my list, but my friend insisted I try their Samosas. We ordered a plate, and as soon as I took the first bite, I nodded at her in agreement. The outer layer was evenly fried and flaky, complimenting the soft and well-cooked potato filling. I relished the flavourful Samosa without even touching the chutney. Thanks to my friend, I will now be recommending this place to anyone asking for the yummiest Samosas in Delhi.
We walked on to the end of the main road to Gole Hatti. Named for its circular shape, Gole Hatti has been serving authentic Punjabi food since 1954. I had one of their signature dishes, Chawal Chhole Palak—a simple dish of plain rice loaded with ghee, chickpeas and spinach curry, and garnished with freshly-cut onions and carrots. It didn't take us long to finish this exquisitely cooked meal. It always helps to have company when you're out on a food trail. I'm glad the two of us could share the small portions, allowing us to sample the various regional food. I was beginning to feel quite full, but we had more food joints to cover. Next on my list was an antiquated dhaba, just a few steps away, called Kake Di Hatti. They have been serving authentic flavours of the north since 1942. My friend swears by their Dal Makhani and assured me it was unlike any I'd ever tried. One spoonful of the creamy curry, and I couldn't agree more with her!
A food walk must end with dessert! Our next stop, Shyam Sweets, was a 15-minute walk towards Chawri Bazaar Road. We took our time getting there, preparing ourselves for the dessert binge. Here, we tried the Nagori Halwa. It is a semolina sweetmeat served as a stuffing inside a fried Semolina Poori. While Delhiites prefer to have it for breakfast, it was the perfect dessert for me. My Delhi food walk was nearing its end. Crossing the busy shopping lanes of Chawri Bazaar, we made our way to our last stop, Kuremal's Mohanlal Kulfi Wale. I was fascinated to see that this tiny shop, panelled with glossy tiles, had been an iconic eatery serving cream-based desserts since 1906.
Their menu and freezer were both overflowing with varieties of fresh-fruit Kulfis. I decided to go with their speciality, a stuffed mango Kulfi. It is prepared by stuffing a mango with kulfi and freezing it. While serving the dish, they cut the fruit into slices, revealing the frozen Kulfi bordered with fresh fruit. I was blown away by the improvisation. The Kulfi was silky smooth and melted in my mouth. After all the spicy offerings from earlier evenings, the refreshing dessert served as the perfect palate cleanser. From the Sharbat to the Kulfi, my food walk through Old Delhi was mouth-watering. Although Delhi is an infinite paradise for street food lovers, I was thrilled that I was able to explore so many eateries in a day. Going through the rich culinary history of Old Delhi is not only about tasting different flavours; it is an assortment of cultural experiences while wandering through the vibrant and energetic lanes around the area.
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