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In the organised chaos of McLeod Ganj's jazzed-up store displays and delicious street food lies a calm, meditative oasis
Around 9 km north of Dharamshala, in Himachal Pradesh, lies the charming suburb of Mcleod Ganj, nestled amid the Dhauladhar mountains. Famous as the pulsating commercial heart of Dharamshala for its vibrant cafe scene and shopping outlets, McLeod Ganj also has a strong spiritual side, apt for a soul-searching sojourn.
McLeod Ganj is the abode of His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama, and is home to a sizeable Tibetan population. A walk around town takes you past Buddhist shrines with rows of prayer wheels and vibrant prayer flags fluttering in the wind, lending a distinct character to an otherwise touristy town. Over the years, the town has been a bevvy of activities, with meditation and yoga retreats mushrooming everywhere. However, if you are like me, who needs to be in the lap of nature to connect with the inner self, there isn't a better way to experience its raw essence than in the picturesque environs of McLeod Ganj!
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It was a crisp, bright morning in McLeodganj as my bus pulled into the crowded bus station. I felt a surge of excitement course through me – this was going to be my four-day solo trip in the mountains for a bit of soul-searching. After checking into my homestay and refreshing myself, I began my exploration in the evening. I was delighted to find a lovely café nearby, with a well-stocked library and majestic views of the valley. I ordered a delicious pasta dinner and retired for the day, dreaming of the adventures to come.
The following day, I woke early to chirruping birds and crisp mountain air. I set out to explore Little Lhasa, as McLeod Ganj is popularly known. My first stop was the Tsuglakhang Complex and Namgyal Monastery, which are adjacent to each other. Home to the Dalai Lama, the Tsuglakhang Complex is a monastic village with two temples and a Tibetan Museum. I walked across the sunny central courtyard to the Kalachakra Temple, which enshrined striking Buddhist imagery and mandalas.
A short walk from the complex led me to Namgyal Monastery, which is believed to be the largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet. The 3rd Dalai Lama, Gyalwa Sonam Gyatso in 1564, founded it. The monastery was named Namgyal in 1571 to honour the female deity of long life and purification, Namgyalma. I paused on the balcony running the perimeter of the building to take in the gorgeous valley views. The prayer room has a colossal golden statue of the Buddha. As I stood before the image, I felt small in the vastness of the universe and the wisdom of all the generations that came before me.
I spent time in the monastery complex, soaking in the peace, observing the maroon-robed monks go about their chores, whirling the colourful prayer wheels, and admiring the beautiful chortans (stupas) — slowing down to let the spiritual essence permeate through me. A short pranayama session energised my spirit, and it was time to hit the road again!
After a late but hearty breakfast of fluffy pancakes at Crepe Pancakes cafe, I set out on a 4-km trail to the famous Bhagsu Naag Temple, northeast of McLeod Ganj. The temple attracts crowds of devotees who come here to pray to Lord Shiva and his naag (snake). Legend has it that the idol of Lord Shiva here is around 5,000 years old.
A short walk from the temple leads to the ever-popular Bhagsu Naag Waterfall. I took the walkway adjacent to the waterfall for a good view. The waterfall is best visited during the monsoon season when crystal-clear waters plummet from 30 ft. I precariously balanced myself on a large rock at the base of the waterfall, observing the species of fish swimming about. I dipped my tired feet into the cool waters to soothe my nerves, and a group of fish gathered around my feet to offer me what seemed like a fish spa! The leafy environs, lilting breeze, and fresh waters did refresh my city-worn soul.
I made a pit stop at the legendary Shiva Café, known for its carefree hippie vibe, to enjoy a delicious meal. As dusk fell, I returned to McLeod Ganj for some café and store-hopping. With my mind, body, and soul rejuvenated, I checked into my homestay and rounded off the day by writing a poem — something I hadn't done in a long time.
On Day 2, I was keen to go back in time for history lessons. The destination for the day was Kangra Fort, the largest fort in the Himalayas, also one of the oldest forts in India, dating to the 4th century CE. Irrespective of whether you are a history lover, a spiritual seeker, or simply an adventurer, this place has something for everyone! The fort is around 25 km southwest of McLeod Ganj, so begin early to make the most of the morning hours at the fort.
As my vehicle approached the site, the fort loomed dramatically on a hill. The audio guide of the fort, narrated by Roshan Seth, is a must when visiting the fort. As I made my way, I was astonished to know that the fort put up a successful resistance against an invasion led by Mughal Emperor Akbar. However, his son, Jehangir, established his control over the fort in 1620, forcing the great Raja of Chamba of the Rajput Katoch Dynasty to submit to Mughal rule.
While exploring the fort, I couldn't help but ponder how life was a constant struggle back then – even for the royal family. The fort's crumbling walls, alleys, pathways, and ramparts conjured up political struggles of a bygone era, and stories of unparalleled strength and valour. As I listened to the story of the Rajputs of the Katoch Dynasty, my mind was transported back in time, my worries seemed to fade away, and I decided to practise gratitude for what I had.
It was lunchtime when I returned to McLeod Ganj. This time, I checked into the Tibet Kitchen. After all, what's better than a comforting bowl of traditional thukpa to warm the soul?
A visit to McLeod Ganj is incomplete without trekking to Triund hill for a panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks of the Dhauladhar Range. I checked the trek from my to-do list on my penultimate day in McLeod Ganj. I was all set to ascend, enjoy the views, camp overnight, and hike down at daybreak. As the first rays of the sun fell on the mountaintops, I took a rickshaw to the starting point. After double-checking the gear, my guide and I started the trek.
The 9-km-long Triund trekking trail was easy to moderate (depending on your level of expertise). As the trail grew steeper, I felt my legs grow numb from all the walking and climbing! Midway, I was happy to sip piping hot tea at the Magic Chai Shop, which claimed to be the oldest chai shop (since 1984) in this region.
The last leg of the trek was a bit difficult, with a few treacherous sections. The mesmerising views of the great Dhauladhar Range turned out to be well worth the effort! I will never forget the jaw-dropping vista of the mist-shrouded mountains under a brilliant blue sky. I was glad to be welcomed by green meadows and a flock of sheep grazing at a distance. I pitched my tent and made my way to a rocky outcrop to soak in the dramatic view of the mighty Dhauladhar Range. It was the perfect point for enjoying a splendid sunset, and as the last rays bid goodbye, solitude engulfed me.
After a hot dinner of Maggi, I lay down on the green grass outside my tent, gazing at the night sky, not a care in the world. Here I was in the lap of nature, surrounded by mountains, with no one or nothing to wake me up to the reality of a stressful working day. My mind had already travelled across time and tide, eyes peacefully drooping into a blissful state of sleep. For tomorrow, the first rays of the sun would reveal blue skies and green meadows – nature’s way of ushering in a new day just for me.
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