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A guide to some of the most interesting finds in food, fashion, and furnishings in the Blue City.
There is a sea of blue as far as the eye can see. No, I'm not looking at a lake or ocean, but at a jumble of houses painted a vibrant blue and squished together in the ancient, winding streets of Jodhpur.
I am in Rajasthan’s second-largest city, admiring the view from my perch atop the Mehrangarh Fort. It's my first morning in the beautiful Desert State, and I've made a beeline for the imposing fort. A cultural gem, Mehrangarh has been the setting for several movies, festivals, and concerts.
But I can't stay here long. Jodhpur is calling to me, with its endless list of sights to see and artisanal treasures to discover. That’s Rajasthan for you, brimming with culture, art, colour, hospitality – and shopping!
It’s no wonder that the state's treasure trove overflows, given its rich and illustrious heritage – a heritage that locals have kept alive and continue to respect. This is most evident in Jodhpur, home to the state's finest artisans and loveliest handicrafts. For shopaholics (like me), this city is paradise.
As interested as I am in Mehrangarh and its history, I am keener to explore the Museum Shop (www.mehrangarh.org/museum-shop) in the fort. I find beautiful stationery with Rajasthani motifs and hand-embroidered tote bags. I see one with the kings of Jodphur and their glorious moustaches that’s sure to turn heads.
I also eye the hardcover diaries depicting scenes from folklore and mythology, but decide to forego those in favour of a set of elegant gift cards imprinted with the cheel (or black kite). An interesting factoid: this bird also adorns the royal flag of Jodhpur.
After traipsing through the fort for the better part of the morning, I make my way down to the busy streets for a quick stop with masala chai and mirchi vada at a roadside tea stall. Both are incredible, and when I compliment the owner, he points me toward the Clock Tower to pick up some spices and chai masala for home. Once the refreshments have worked their magic, I’m ready to head there.
The Clock Tower is an area bustling with street vendors, wide-eyed tourists, and smiling locals mingling with each other. There’s a shop for every item imaginable – shoes, clothes, groceries, vegetables, bags, kitchenware, home décor, furniture, you name it. Among these, I seek out MV Spices (www.mvspices.com) as recommended by the affable tea stall owner, and my olfactory senses go into overdrive as soon I step into the store. The heady fragrance – pepper, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and spices I can’t even name – entices my senses.
Run by the daughters of Mohanlal Verma, after whom the shop is named, this store is easy to locate as it has become a landmark in the area. The proof of their fame is prominently displayed outside the store; a giant signboard proclaims that MV Spices has been recommended by renowned international travel publications. The women behind the counter are friendly and happily engage with the shoppers. They patiently answer questions from the many curious tourists poking about their store.
The store owners source the ingredients and grind the spices themselves. She asks me to sample their most famous spice blend. I'm handed a cup of saffron tea, which is at once calming and invigorating. I immediately pick up a packet of the saffron tea blend, the masala tea blend, and some freshly ground spices. On my way out, I spot Rajasthan’s famed mathaniya chili powder, which lends a deep red colour to your curries without the accompanying heat.
I’m told the chilli powder is oil-free and not too spicy, so I promptly decide to add a packet (or two) to my purchase. After inhaling my fill of all the heady aromas, my stomach grumbles in protest. It’s nearing lunchtime, so I grab a quick meal, eager to get to my next stop – where I’m certain I will be spending the rest of the afternoon.
Ganesh Handicrafts is a family-owned shop, like many of the businesses here. It’s a veritable riot of colours. There are curios, artefacts, shawls, scarves, paintings, lanterns, and brass figurines in every nook and cranny of the store. I spend a few blissful hours peering at all the items on display, making a mental checklist of what I’m going to buy and which item will adorn which corner of my home.
I spot a stunning, intricately-carved console table. Furniture, especially unique, antique-style pieces, is my Achilles' heel. When I inquire about these tables, the store assistant offers to guide me to their factory, a 30-minute drive that I’m more than happy to make as I prefer to see and feel the items myself. Picking out furniture from a catalogue somehow doesn’t quite capture the essence of these artisanal pieces.
The enormous factory houses some of the most gorgeous furniture I have ever laid eyes on. Scattered across the warehouse floor are elegant console tables with cabriole legs, wooden almirahs carved with detailed designs, full-length mirrors framed in white-washed wood, and bedside drawers studded with metal bolts resembling treasure chests. I’m as impressed as I'm tempted to buy absolutely everything.
But you don't have to travel away from the city for interesting curios and furniture in Jodhpur. Lalji Handicrafts on Umaid Bhawan Palace Road has rows and rows of traditional Rajasthani furniture, jewellery boxes, lawn ornaments, keyholders, centrepieces, and lampshades. There are jharokhas, which would make lovely photo frames, and a delightful blend of vintage and modern furniture. If you prefer home décor that is elegant yet eye-catching, this store should be on your radar.
Jodhpur’s treasures extend beyond furniture and home décor, though. Take, for example, the eponymous Jodhpur polo breeches. These pants, now considered haute couture, were originally adapted from the churidar worn by the Maharaja of Jodhpur for his polo games. My husband and I make our way to India Tailors on High Court Road to get a bespoke pair of these pants. The third-generation owner of the store offers helpful suggestions on design, fabric, and buttons. Sadly, there are few options when it comes to shopping for men. Luckily for me, women have a myriad of choices.
Off I go to Sadar Bazar, which is brimming with saris and kurtis with the classic Rajasthani leheriya patterns. I spot bejewelled mojris or jootis (traditional Rajasthani shoes) in all the colours of the rainbow. I also see some bangles, but I have my sights set on the famous Bibaji Churi Wale, one of the oldest bangle sellers in the city. The elderly gentleman claims his business is over 100 years old. Don't be put off by his surliness or the tiny storeroom of a shop. He has been dressing royalty and celebrities alike with his beautiful bangles for decades. You can find bangles in any size, colour, material, or budget you fancy.
The last stop on my shopping spree is the Pukhraj Durry Udhyog, a weavers' cooperative in Salawas village, approximately 22 km. from the city. This village is home to artisans who weave cotton rugs, or durries, the traditional way – on handlooms, using natural vegetable dyes. I am told each durry takes several days to complete by hand. The best part is that you can watch these rugs being made.
They have intricate geometric patterns in a range of colours as well as subtler monochrome options. I'm torn between the two and end up picking one of each. As the village is a 45-minute drive from Jodhpur, be sure to set aside three hours or so for your visit.
Jodhpur has surprised me with its treasures. The city's heritage and culture have seeped into every aspect of a visitor's experience, making shopping in the city a charming affair. If you’re looking for high-street fashion or big labels, you’re in the wrong place. However, if you’re an admirer of fine arts, you will find that any object you bring back – every artefact, painting, sari, or shoe – holds untold stories of Jodhpur's regal past and its legacy of the finest craftsmanship.
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