Slow Travelling In the Lap Of Dhauladhar

Palampur

During the ride, the Kangra Valley reached a higher elevation, and the Dhauladhar range appeared in the north. It took a little more than an hour to reach the quaint neat town of Palampur.

My stay was close to the tea gardens in Bandla. It overlooked the Dhauladhar in the north, the Neugal Khad stream in the west and a small village to my east. The road to the south led to the Bandla tea estate and its many cafes.

I spent the first week of my stay in Palampur, working in the mornings and spending evenings walking through the tea gardens or sitting beside the gurgling water of Neugal Khad.

Beside the Neugal stream is a nature park called Saurabh Van Vihar. It was named after an army hero, Subedar Major Saurabh Kalia, who sacrificed his life saving his comrades during the Kargil War in 1999. The park has several picnic spots, including a children's park, ideal for nature lovers.

Bandla village has one more army hero to cherish. Captain Vikram Batra, a wartime hero posthumously awarded the highest Indian Military honour, was also born here. Palampur, especially Bandla, takes pride in the son of their soil who immortalised his name with his bravery. There are many streets and buildings in Palampur named after Captain Vikram Batra.

The beauty of Palampur lies in its simplicity. The town was named after the many streams that flow here. It's easy to overlook the picturesque but humble mountains of Palampur when visiting Himachal. However, its serenity and simplicity make it ideal for extended stays. Many retired army personnel built their forever homes in Palampur.

Baijnath

I travelled to Baijnath—in the lap of the Dhauladhar mountains and on the banks of the Binwa River—on the first weekend of my stay. The journey of 18 km took half an hour by local bus.

Baijnath is known for its ancient Shiva temple dating back to the 12th century. I spent a morning capturing the temple's classic example of Nagara-style architecture on camera.

Baijnath is also a popular trekking destination, known for its beautiful forests, waterfalls, and hilltop temples.

The area around Baijnath is rich in culture and history. After a particularly gruelling work morning, I visited the Tibetan Buddhist Tashi Jong Monastery. The monastery is home to a community of Tibetan refugees and is an important centre for preserving Tibetan culture and religion.

The monastery's main temple is dedicated to Lord Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche. Lord Padmasambhava is regarded as the second Buddha, as per Tibetan Buddhism. The complex is also home to a traditional Tibetan school, which imparts traditional Tibetan culture, language and religion.

Rajgundha Valley

The second weekend was a long one, especially with the holiday for Gandhi Jayanti. This gave me time to travel to Bir along with friends.

A friend's colleague rented Kath Kuni house in a nearby village called Gunehar. We spent the night there and hiked to Rajgundha Valley the following morning. The hike was a common grazing route for the sheep of Gaddi herders; it was a beautiful sight to watch the white dots moving lazily in the green valley.

We spent the night in the tranquillity of the magnificent Rajgundha Valley. In the morning, the panoramic views of the valley with the Uhl river snaking its way through is a sight to behold! We trekked back to Bir, crossing the take-off points for paragliding at Billing.

We came across small temples of local deities along the way. The locals entertained us with amusing tales of the deities' power and charisma. We spent an evening at the Baba Balak Nath temple in Gunehar and slept in a traditional Himachali house at night. My friends dropped me back in Palampur the following morning.

Jia Valley

I must admit I enjoy walking. Hence, I decided to explore the Jia Valley on foot at the third weekend. Jia Valley, also known as Jia Bhangal, is a remote and isolated valley. It is surrounded by the Dhauladhar mountain range and is famous for its natural beauty and traditional rustic lifestyle.

Jia Valley is home to the Gaddi and Gujjar communities. These communities are primarily involved in livestock rearing and agriculture. The valley's remoteness with few roads helped preserve its traditional culture and way of life.

I may have walked over 10 km through Jia Valley that day. I went around the villages taking photographs and observing people. I didn't meet any other traveller that day and felt like a pioneer coming across a new civilisation for the first time.

Yol Bazaar

Yol is a blink-and-miss market on the way to Dharamshala from Palampur. Hardly any tourist knows about, and I found Yol by chance on a local's recommendation of Yol's Himachal Dham. Dham is a traditional Himachali platter.

I may have visited Yol for food, but I found something more interesting. There was a turquoise stream opposite the market. I spent an hour by the stream admiring its clear and scintillating beauty. The Himachali Dham platter had a range of savoury and sour lentils served with rice. The platter is better described as homely comfort food.

Remembering the Delicacies

Later, I found more opportunities to try many other local delicacies. The locals of Palampur swore by their mutton rara, which I would also highly recommend if you are a non-vegetarian travelling to Palampur.

Palampur also has a small kiosk called Treet Ice Cream, selling ice creams in the middle of the tea gardens. I also discovered a smooth local liquor, best for those extra chilly nights. I also managed to taste some of the most nutritious tawa chapatis in the valley in Palampur.

My stay in Palampur helped me find solace and tranquillity after the dread of Covid. When it was time to return, leaving this quaint town with slow-paced life is difficult. I enjoyed the time away from the honking and pollution. Sadly, I never returned to Himachal after that trip.

I am joking. I made a trip to Lahaul Valley the following week.