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Here's how we painted the town pink on a 48-hour visit to Jaipur to ring in the New Year.
Jaipur is an extremely popular tourist destination. Just three hours from Delhi and Agra, it’s part of the hallowed Golden Triangle of Indian sightseeing meccas. Crowds of tourists flock to Jaipur for its historical landmarks, majestic forts, delicious food, and all sorts of amazing shopping year-round.
Although the main focus of our short year-end break was to visit Ranthambore, we added two days in Jaipur at the last minute. Since we were so close to the 31st of December, we thought we might as well ring in the new year, Rajasthani style.
We arrived in Jaipur on a cold winter’s day, still in awe of having spotted an elusive tiger at Ranthambore National Park the evening before.
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After a few days of scouring the net for a deal, I chanced upon a gorgeous homestay. And wonder of wonders – it was available for New Year’s eve. Dileep Kothi is the private home of the erstwhile royal family of Barli. From the moment you step in through the gleaming white entrance, you are greeted with the legendary Rajasthani hospitality. Even though the three-storied home belongs to the 16th generation of royals, the rooms and public areas are modern and chic. Each suite is lovingly restored and decorated with a harmonious blend of the old and new.
The hotel has only six rooms spread over three floors. There is a generous lounge area on each floor, which provides that extra space you need to work or read. Breakfast is a genteel sit-down affair, where you are served a delicious choice of Indian and Western options. The staff are on call around the clock and the location is central enough – without it being noisy and crowded – to travel around anywhere you want.
So, we were here in one of the loveliest hotels in Jaipur, feeling pretty pleased with ourselves. Next came the difficult task of deciding what could and could not be squeezed into our two days in the Pink City. We decided that there were three categories that we needed to fulfil. The first was the food. There was lassi to be guzzled; mithai to be relished; and traditional Rajasthani dishes to be devoured. The second involved shopping. We arrived in Jaipur with empty bags ready to fill them with local jewellery, traditional textiles, and even some funky footwear. And our final category included visiting the historical landmarks around the city.
Surprisingly, the last one proved to be the toughest to arrange. We had one full day at our disposal on the 31st of December – probably the worst possible day to venture out for sightseeing. Private cabs and tour guides had been booked months in advance and those who were available did not want to get stuck in the inevitable traffic jams that New Year's eve celebrations tend to bring. We were left with no other option but to put off our plans to visit Amber and Nahargarh forts. Instead, we decided to visit the old city and walk around the bazaars and visit the ancient observatory of Jantar Mantar.
Just a few hints before you book a sightseeing tour in Jaipur. Keep in mind that there are two rates applicable: one for Indian tourists and the other for foreigners. Extra fees are also charged if you are carrying video equipment or even DSLR cameras. With regards to the best time to visit, you should visit places like Jantar Mantar or Nahargarh Fort during the day. Amber Fort hosts a sound and light show in the evening but the full impact of the fort and its inner rooms and courtyards are lost in the dark. Places like Hawa Mahal, City Palace, and the Albert Museum close by early evening, so be sure to check the timings before heading out.
The Jantar Mantar observatory is located next to Jaipur City Palace. I recommend hiring a guide when you are there to make the most of your visit. You will find several guides milling about the place and their charges are ridiculously affordable for the wealth of information they impart. The entry fee is only Rs. 50 per person and our guide charged us Rs. 400 for an hour’s walk around the complex. As a scholar of astronomy himself, he answered all our questions and patiently explained all the wonders of Jantar Mantar. Even if you are strapped for time, I suggest squeezing in at least an hour to visit this amazing ode to science and engineering.
We visited two of the biggest markets in Jaipur to get our fill of local handicrafts and souvenirs. Johri Bazaar is the place to be if you are looking for jewellery. You will find consecutive shops selling everything from costume jewellery to precious stones. Don't miss a visit to Maniharan ka rasta which is an entire street dedicated to shops selling lac bangles, a speciality of the region. However, remember to always bargain. Our rickshaw driver helpfully suggested cutting down the price by 35%. And it worked!
Bapu Bazaar around the corner from Hawa Mahal is a profusion of shops selling textiles, ready-made traditional clothes, and leather mojris. It’s best to visit Bapu Bazaar either mid-morning or early evening to avoid the crowds. We also made a quick dash to the Anokhi store in Ashok Nagar. Known for its ethnic block prints and western designs, Anokhi also makes beautiful tote bags, aprons, and bedspreads. They make the perfect gifts for loved ones back home.
Let’s be honest – there are only that many meals one can squeeze into two days, but we tried. We slowly but surely ticked the must-dos off our list and were left fuller of tummy and happier of heart. High on the list of places you must eat and drink at is Bar Palladio in the Narain Niwas Palace Hotel for the Insta-pretty decor and the perfect Jaipur martini.
There’s Niro’s on MI Road which is a popular family restaurant that has been hosting its patrons since 1949. In between shopping and haggling, we managed a quick stop at Laxmi Misthan Bhandar. Famous for their mithai, chaats, and lassi, there is also plenty you can pack and take away as awesome gifts for food enthusiasts. Check out their mirchi vada and malai ghevar. The stuff of legends!
And finally, there is Handi Restaurant. With several branches all over the city, we dined at the MI Road one. On a friend’s recommendation, we ordered the keema batti – exquisite dough balls wrapped around a kheema (mince) and fried. Served with a bowl of soup gravy and the spiciest of red chutneys, keema batti is my new favourite winter food.
When I knew I was going to spend the New Year in Jaipur, I asked all my friends and contacts for recommendations on what to do and where to go. "What’s the scene like in the city," I asked. The resounding answer was that the locals prefer private parties at homes or farmhouses outside the city. It’s very much a situation of who you know that determines where you are going. Fair enough, but what about if you don't want to party, what then?
I know very well that if you are in any city during New Year, reservations and prior bookings are a must for parties. Furthermore, we were told that we must stick to five-star hotels or well-known venues. Some recommendations were The Lalit Hotel, Rajasthali Resort, Blackout, House of People, and Extreme.
One of my friends, living in Jaipur, also shared her time-tested tradition for a fun New Year’s eve plan. "We usually drive out of the city earlier in the evening. Several dhabas along the highways are perfect stops. Places like Nahargarh Fort or Sambhar Lake are gorgeous at night. There are scenic viewpoints and places where you can even pitch your tent and celebrate under the stars."
In the end, with no private party invites and no intention to dance till dawn at a fancy hotel, we were a bit confused about what to do. Luckily for us, we discovered that our hotel was hosting a New Year's eve get-together. It was a small, intimate soirée on the terrace complete with a bonfire, cocktails, and delicious snacks. Not at all a bad idea! What a perfect way to end the year that turned out to be. As we bade goodbye to the old and welcomed the new, the sky around us was lit up by fireworks. The small group of guests around cheered on and the future seemed so bright. A happy new year indeed!
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