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Finding myself in a cozy little inn on a hill
A small sleepy cantonment was nestled above the bustling crowd in Mussoorie. Landour is the best-kept secret of the queen of hills. This charming town brims with gabled cottages, cobbled streets, vintage cafes, and crisp mountain air.
However, the best part of this town is that not many people know about it, and thus, do not consider it an ideal vacation spot. This is why Landour is perfect for writers, poets, artists, and creatives! No one will disturb you here as you go about your day with your work! With this thought in mind, I decided to spend a day in the lap of this quaint Himalayan town. And so began my journey to Landour.
I boarded an overnight train from Lucknow to reach Dehradun in the morning. It took me 9 hours to reach Dehra, from where I took a cab to Mussoorie. A private cab generally costs around INR 1,200-1,500, but if you go for a shared taxi, it can cost as low as INR 300 per person. Another cheaper method is to buy a bus ticket from the station. But it takes hours to get a ticket at the single ticket counter!
I reached Mussoorie within two hours, thanks to the cab driver! I reached Mussoorie around 10 am. A cab is the only way to get to Landour from Mussoorie and it costs around INR 500-400. At first, I decided to walk to Landour, but soon I realised getting a cab was a better idea since I am not a local who knows the terrain.
So, I hired a coolie who charged me about INR 150 to my hotel. Still, it was a straight climb and took me about an hour to reach there.
To say that I was mesmerised by the beauty of Doma’s Inn would be an understatement! Yes, it was an absolute delight to soak in the beauty of Doma’s Inn, a vibrant place with quirky decor inspired by East Asian culture, mostly Tibetan. I had my eyes set on this stunning cafe since 2019, but I never got a reservation in any of its rooms! It is full most of the year! So, this time, I didn't have many expectations but viola! It was like magic since they had only one room left, and I jumped at the opportunity!
The place looks bewitching to a first-timer! It is nestled inside the Ivy Cottage, next to the writer Ruskin Bond’s house. From the moment you enter this hotel, you are at a loss for words to describe the beauty of Doma’s Inn.
The fierce red colour splashed across its walls, the big vintage windows, the windchimes hanging at the end of every entrance, the vintage cafe serving Tibetan, East Asian, Chinese, and Continental food, the spiral staircase on the extreme corner at the reception – everything about Doma’s Inn was unique and yet it reminded me of a Ghibli movie I watched long back.
Whatever it may be, all I knew was that I had checked off my to-do list by booking a night’s stay in Doma’s Inn. Like Chihiro, I started running up and down the hotel! I gave myself a full tour of my room. It was big and no, it wasn't like your typical hotel room. It was red and yellow and had Tibetan-style beds on the ground floor and the first floor – there were stairs inside my room that led me to the first floor!
There was a bed on the first floor along with a reading table and a small lamp that glowed like a full moon. The decor of the deluxe room was simple but unique. The room can host at least four people at a time, and here I was, a solo traveller, all set to make the most of my night! But first, I had to take a bath! By the time I was out of the washroom, darkness had fallen, and I could admire the beauty of Doon valley that sparkled with the twinkling of lights from the balcony.
The staff played folk songs from northeast India that I thoroughly enjoyed. I wrote some poetry and headed back to my room for the night. By 10 pm, the hills fell silent, and I knew it was time to sleep no matter how much I wanted to stay up. I was so tired that the minute I closed my eyes, dreams took over.
The chef was in the kitchen and the receptionist welcomed me with tea and breakfast, which was complimentary with my stay. I stayed in my bed for a while admiring the beauty of the perfect hilly morning.
I, soon, got up and freshened myself to plan my day. I went to the cafe and was again taken aback by its beauty that carried the 90's charm. There were several wall posters of old Bollywood and Hollywood films, 80s bands, and east-Asian TV shows.
I was in awe of the entire place! I ordered dim sums and thukpa, and I have to say, I was not disappointed by the taste and food aesthetics! They knew exactly what they were doing with the place! I had no complaints, none whatsoever.
I thank my stars for choosing a place as dreamy as Doma’s Inn, and recommend everyone to book a night’s stay there, especially if you are two or more. They charged me INR 3,000 per night and going by the rooms and the place, it was worth it!
From having momos, bun omelet, and Maggi at the Char Dukan and buying peanut butter from the popular Anil Prakash Store at Sister’s Bazaar to having conversations with local writers over a cup of coffee at the famous Landour Bakehouse, my day was full of delight!
Returning to my hotel, it was time to pack my bags and check out before the darkness fell. I thanked and tipped the young staff for their warm hospitality and climbed down the road to Mussoorie. I turned around to have one last look at the Doma’s Inn, and the Chihiro in me sighed heavily as the Spirited Away hotel will soon become a memory, until next time!
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