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What happens in Meghalaya, stays in Meghalaya – quite literally.
A paradise for naturalists, the state of Meghalaya came into existence as a separate state in 1972 when it was carved out of Assam. This mesmerising land is known for its picturesque landscapes, pretty lakes, gushing waterfalls, and the hospitality of Khasi culture. The natural beauty of the place and pleasant weather make it a dream tourist destination.
My tryst with Meghalaya happened when a bunch of us decided to tour the Northeast: mainly Assam and Meghalaya. We hired a self-drive Zoom car for the trip and decided to explore this underrated wonder at leisure.
We were a group of 6 people, so we hired two Zoom cars – it's a good idea to hire two hatchbacks or sedans as it is more economical than renting an SUV. Additionally, the luggage can be equally split between the two vehicles, balancing the load for a smooth ride. Remember that the roads in Meghalaya – except Shillong – are awful with potholes and fissures.
We began our journey from Guwahati at around 4:30 pm after picking up some essentials for the road. The drive was comfortable as we drove through the two major cities of Guwahati and Shillong. The National Highway has six wide lanes. However, once you cross Assam and enter Meghalaya, you will see limited streetlights along the way.
Although it was just 6:30 pm, we decided to eat an early dinner since it gets dark by 4:30 in the Northeast. We stopped over at the roadside Sardarji Dhaba on the highway. There are several dhabas of the same name on either side of the highway at a fair distance from each other. I'm not sure if they are the same franchise, but I can assure you that the food is authentic North Indian and very tasty! You will find most North Indian favourites along with several tandoor options at the dhaba. They even serve snacks, such as samosa, kachori, and chole bhathure.
We decided to stay in Cherapunji which is also known as Sohra because we wanted to explore places off the tourist trail in Meghalaya. We couldn't find many accommodation options as we planned the trip on the spur of the moment. So, we ended up staying at this tiny place called Sky View Resort. It is a newly built homestay, with rooms that come with en-suite bathrooms (₹5000 per night, excluding food). They even have tents outside but since the temperature dropped to 7°C degrees Celsius at night, we decided to opt for the comfort of cosy rooms.
Roads in Sohra are not in the best condition as it is one of the places in the world that receives the highest average annual rainfall. Getting to the property was challenging, but the owner helped us navigate a different road to bring us to the resort’s parking area. The homestay looked pretty with a lovely lawn area and a bonfire. There were two additional tents outside for solo travellers.
Just as we were settling in, we were told that there was no power and that we will get an inverter the next day. We were already freezing in the chilly weather, and the thought of sleeping without the heater felt terrifying! But since we didn't have any alternative for the night, we had no choice but to stay at the resort. Our phone batteries were drained since we had used them to help us navigate to the place. The water running from the taps was ice cold.
That night, we sat around the bonfire, basking in its warmth. When we glanced at the sky, it was a sight to behold! The sky was a clear midnight blue, with a full moon the size of a football, and infinite shining stars surrounding it. I had forgotten the last time I'd seen such a beautiful starry sky back home in the city. It was the most beautiful night sky I had ever seen!
As we sat surrounded by the Himalayas underneath the splendid night sky, we took some pictures using other people’s phones, experimenting with the night modes — we all got new DPs for our social media handles! Since we'd eaten an early dinner, we asked the owner to help us with some Maggi as a bedtime meal and tucked in right after.
The following day, we woke up to see the gorgeous sunrise from the resort. I sat in peace, gazing at the mountains, and did a little sketch of the surrounding landscape. When we enquired about power being restored, we were disappointed to learn that the inverter would only arrive by evening. Some people had smartly put their phones on aeroplane mode through the night to be prepared for such a situation. Around 8.00 am, our breakfast arrived. We ate sandwiches and omelettes and sipped on hot tea while planning our sightseeing for the day. The owner arranged for hot water for us to take showers.
As the day progressed, we got ready and set off to visit the famous Wei Sawdong waterfall. The place was about 40 minutes away from the resort. Wei Sawdong turned out to be nothing short of a natural wonder. The route to the falls is treacherous to navigate as it’s a steep descent. You may not find any concrete steps leading down to the falls but only bamboo ladders, tree roots, and loose mud – so be sure to wear shoes with a good grip if you plan to do this trek. Although it takes around an hour to reach the falls, the trek feels well worth the effort!
The moment we reached the falls we realised that the arduous trek was worth the time and effort – clean, sparkling waters and spectacular views! There were several tourists and school kids who had come here for a picnic. We spent time enjoying ourselves, clicking photos, and climbing the rocks to another branch of the waterfall. I was reminded of my childhood as we scuttled about like excited kids!
After spending time chilling at the falls, we decided to head to our next stop: Nohkalikai Falls which is the tallest plunge waterfall in India. There are numerous shops and vendors, selling chaat, fresh fruit, and handicrafts, right opposite the viewing area. The waterfall looks majestic as it plunges 340 metres down into a pool and you can hear the water gushing even at a distance and feel the ferocity of the falls.
Cherapunji is known for oranges and pineapples. We bumped into a pineapple vendor nearby and it made perfect sense for us to binge-eat the freshly sliced fruit. If you're wondering what is so great about the Cherapunji pineapple, you have to try it for yourself! Pineapples here are sweet and juicy, with no hint of bitterness.
While interacting with the vendor he asked us if we know the story associated with these falls. The word "Nohkalikai" in Khasi means "Jump of Ka Likai". Legend has it that a widow with a kid had to remarry someone to make ends meet. But her husband was not happy to raise another person’s child, and so he killed the infant. When the woman found out about it, she flew into a rage and jumped to death from the cliff where the waterfall is located. That's how the waterfall came to be known as Nohkalikai Falls. Later, when we looked up the story online, we didn't find any concrete data about this story, so it might be a local myth.
After an exhausting day outdoors, trekking to Wei Sawdong and exploring Nohkalikai Falls, we decided to head back as it was a 1.5-hour drive to the property. We reached the property and were very excited to see the inverter. But it was shattered when we learnt that we will have power for only an hour. This led to a tense situation because our phones had limited charge and we needed it to call our respective families and view maps to navigate the route.
Since the property was new, things were not wholly set up and we had no option but to accept the situation. However, the owner was courteous enough to waive the charges for breakfast. Even though it was a difficult 24 hours in Cherapunji, the silver lining of the trip was that those 24 hours without our cell phones made us truly connect with nature and we made memories that we will cherish for our lifetime!
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