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Pune’s peths delineate a curious journey in time, showing you a real-time glimpse of the many worlds that prospered within the city, centuries ago.
To me, the beauty of Indian cities lies inherently in their historical and cultural abundance. So, I have this trick to get to know any city up close, I head to the “Old City” area and take a long walk. In my hometown Ahmedabad, at the age of 22, I discovered Irani cafes serving the softest and distinctly unique maska buns, using this very trick. Whereas in Amritsar, the old city streets led me to the decades-old lifestyle of cotton vendors, who all believed in relishing a plump siesta in the little concrete porches right outside their shops.
Also, a couple of years back, when I was visiting a bunch of friends in Pune, I had the good fortune of exploring the city like a tourist, accompanied by a local. My friend Omkar and I spent about three summer days mapping the different areas of Pune on his bike, right from the cave temple of Pataleshwar to the dainty little shop serving a delightful, cooling drink called Mastaani, right on the main square.
Alongside the most delicious lunches of tambda rassa and solkadis, he also introduced me to the peths of Pune. While I leave the stories of Pune’s food scene for another day and time, today, I want you to walk with me across the serpentine and sepia-painted gullies of the peths. If you have been to Pune, chances are that you have already visited at least a couple of peths unknowingly. So, what are the peths of Pune and why do they deserve to be known?
To understand the peths, we’ll have to go back a few centuries. About 500-300 years ago, Pune was prospering under the rule of Maratha and Peshwa kings. At the heart of the city were the areas of present Shaniwar Wada and Mahatma Phule Mandai. However, with the increasing population, the city’s boundaries kept expanding, making space for newer colonies, communities, and citizens. The locals started developing their neighbourhoods to suit their lifestyles, sharing the language, cuisine, accents, and more. And this is how peths came into being.
Back then, peths were close-knit neighbourhoods where clans built their own mini-cities within Pune. Their distinct designs give a glimpse into an ancient lifestyle, remnants of which now coexist with modern structures. Today, around 17 peths exist in Pune, of which the oldest peth is believed to have been birthed in the 14th century. Then came 7 more peths during the 17th century, which were named after the seven days of the week. Interestingly, traders and craftsmen would conduct business only one day a week, giving the peths their names. Not to stray from the topic, but could we have single workday weeks back by any chance?
Alongside the pleasing open-roof bars and chic Koregaon Park cafes, Pune’s cultural extravagance extends to its historical landmarks. From Bajirao’s famed fort of Shaniwar Wada to the revered Kasba Ganapati Temple, many of the city’s prominent structures lie in the very peths of Pune. This is why I also like to call these peths the beating heart of Pune.
So, coming back to my lovely walk, the Sun was warm and welcoming in the skies and I was circling the edges of the walls of Shaniwar Wada. With my heart full of wonderment and my mind satiated with legendary stories of the kings, I made my way to Vishrambaug Wada. Here, a rustic old museum awaited me with its showcase of curious artefacts and a pretty set of water-colour painted postcards.
So, coming back to my lovely walk, the Sun was warm and welcoming in the skies and I was circling the edges of the walls of Shaniwar Wada. With my heart full of wonderment and my mind satiated with legendary stories of the kings, I made my way to Vishrambaug Wada. Here, a rustic old museum awaited me with its showcase of curious artefacts and a pretty set of water-colour painted postcards. As I crossed the gullies and gaped at the olden buildings around, my friend Omkar casually mentioned how we were making our way across the peths of Pune. Slowly, as we navigated further across the busy Sunday streets of old Pune, did I come to know of the jewellery market in Ravivar Peth and the artistic brick walls of Rasta Peth.
It did not take long before I drew an analogy between Pune’s peths and Ahmedabad’s pols. The difference is, pols were typically clustered by caste, religion, or profession, and there were over 360 of them in old Ahmedabad back in the day. Drawn further to the concept of peths, I designed this mini Heritage walk which comprises roughly 80 minutes of walking and a few hours of pondering and wandering around.
The walk begins at Pune’s oldest and busiest, Kasba Peth, where the old Shivaji Bridge resides. As you walk towards Shaniwar Wada, you will cross the busy streets of Shanivar Peth and make your way to Pune's Budhwar Peth. The ornate Shreemant Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati Mandir makes way for Tulsi Baug Ganpati till you finally reach Vishrambaug Wada in Sadashiv Peth in Pune. The walk begins at the 100-year-old Chhatrapati Shivaji Bridge with its archaic stone construction and iconic arches.
As you cross the peths, look out for the visual and cultural differences. While one peth is swamped with timber on sale, another houses a historical market for everyday things. To truly differentiate one peth from another, you might have to work a little too. I recommend talking to the pandits of the temple, chatting up with owners of old shops, and observing the gradual change in the moving architectural landscape.
And as you continue the walk, you will spot a tiny street shop thronged by many locals and tourists. Sujata Mastani is a legendary ice cream and cold drink shop known for its drink of Mastani, where you can make a stopover to fill your bellies and hearts alike. Continue further on to Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, where a collection of artefacts from all over India impresses travellers like me, daily.
Now, you could end the walk here or carry further on to explore the non-touristy gullies of Ganj Peth, Bhavani Peth, and Rasta Peth to fulfil your tryst with the peths of Pune. Regardless, this walk back in time will reveal Pune’s bygone tales and trails alike, it’s up to you to explore them and connect the dots.
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