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A charming cantonment town, a 13th-century temple in the woods, and a magnificent view of Mount Trishul will bewitch you on this underrated road trip through the offbeat villages in Kumaon.
One of the benefits of living in Delhi is that Kumaon is only a few hours’ drive away. On a recent five-day trip to the mountains, I had the chance to explore Kumaon’s sleepy little hamlets beyond the popular towns of Mukteshwar and Nainital. Laced with the legendary Himalayan peaks, Kumaon is Uttarakhand’s less-explored region, with a vibrant pahadi culture and bucolic charm seeping through its villages. So, if you’ve explored much of the traditional Kumaon circuit, sit back and tighten your seatbelts for an offbeat road trip to the hills.
I began my road trip from Delhi in a private car to reach Haldwani, which was six hours away. I was driven further ahead through the well-paved roads of the utterly scenic Jim Corbett National Park onto a nonchalant village called Siltona, about two hours from Haldwani. Tucked away from civilisation, the village of Siltona offered plenty of room to unwind, spend time with nature, and indulge in delicious Kumaoni meals. I had a two-night stay planned at Tree of Life Junoon in the Hills. My chic bungalow was secluded and spacious, perfect for a romantic getaway. From my room, I could see the vast expanse of the Kumaon hills that offered a gorgeous sunrise view. I spent a lot of time walking through the village, and finding peace with yoga and meditation. Come evening, I enjoyed a bonfire under a starry sky. Route: Delhi to Siltona via Haldwani and Nainital; an eight-hour drive by car.
Soon it was time to move to the laidback village of Majkhali. I left from Siltona, and on the way, I passed through the beautiful cantonment town of Ranikhet. The headquarters of the Kumaon Regiment, Ranikhet entertained me for half a day. In this time, I explored the Kumaon Regimental Center (KRC) museum, the Ranijheel, and the town's bustling market street. Author’s tip: When in Ranikhet, do check out the KRC Woollen Rehabilitation Project to learn about the region's crafts, textiles, and kitchens. It's within walking distance from the museum. Even after spending much of my time in Ranikhet, I reached Majkhali, a few hours before sunset. My stay for the night was at the Yak & Yeti Inn, a humble hotel overlooking the brilliant lace of snow-capped Kumaoni mountains. While there is not much to do here except for dining at a quaint cafe or going on long walks chasing the sunset, Majkhali comes as a breath of fresh air for urbanites. It's most known for its beautiful sunrise view over Mount Trishul. Majkhali awaits you with simple hikes, rewarding glimpses of snow peaks, and the nearby forest nursery. Route: Siltona to Majkhali via Ranikhet; a two-hour drive by car.
The next morning brought with it a scenic drive to the 13th-century temple town of Baijnath via Kausani. Constructed in the traditional Nagara style, the main site of the temple would come across as just another ancient temple, had it not been set against the stunning backdrop of the Kumaoni jungle. At Baijnath, an ancient, rock-sculpted temple, with centuries of history embedded in its mandapas, sits harmoniously with giant oaks and refreshing rhododendron trees. Across the street, I helped myself to a local meal of kadhi chawal and aloo puri before making my way south to Kausani. More surprises awaited me on the road. Never before had I seen such charming meadow settlements in Uttarakhand. So, in a way, the bumpy 45-minute ride back to Kumaon’s most underrated village was worth it. With no more than a couple of snack stalls, a KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) lodge, a sprawling tea estate, and a handful of hotels, Kausani is a sleepy little town with a crystal-clear view of the Himalayan range. Supported by the government of Uttarakhand, KMVN lodges are made for tourists to find comfortable and trusted accommodation even in the remotest villages of Uttarakhand. I spent two days here, just hiking in nature and taking walks through the village. You can also simply paint away on a lazy afternoon or watch the sunset. I went to Kausani in the spring, so it was full of colour. But if you visit during winter, you might witness snowfall. Route: Majkhali to Kausani via Baijnath; a three-hour drive by car. While Kausani was the last on our circuit of Kumaon villages to explore, you can very well continue to Munsyari, that is, if you have at least two additional nights to spare. Munsyari remains at the top of my bucket list for its brilliant mountain views and old ways of living, but I’ll leave that for next time.
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