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Witness the powerful blend of art, culture, and spirituality in Kerala—where Gods come to life.
I visited my childhood friend in Kasaragod, Kerala during my semester break in college. When I got there, my friend informed me about an upcoming 'Theyyam' dance performance in a nearby temple. Hailing from Mangalore, I was acquainted with Bhoota Kola, a shamanistic ritual dance widely popular among Tulu Nadu Hindus. I had only heard of Theyyam in passing. Now the prospect of observing this sacred ritual in person piqued my curiosity.
I grew up fascinated with Kerala's picturesque landscapes, spice-filled air, and rich cultural heritage. I was aware of its various dance forms. My friend informed me that the word Theyyam is derived from the Malayalam word 'daivam,' meaning God. The Theyyam dance form is believed to have originated as a fertility ritual. It is not merely a form of entertainment. It is an act of devotion, a divine manifestation passed down through generations. The Theyyam dance is commonly performed in the northern parts of Kerala. It is performed at several temples in Kannur and Kasaragod from December to April.
My friend's grandmother told me about the fascinating history of Theyyam. She explained that it originated from Kaliyattam and was later passed down to the indigenous tribal communities, such as the Malayar, Pana, Vannan, and Velan. It was interesting to learn that Velan, one of the Theyyam performers, is mentioned in the Sangam literature. According to the Sangam traditions, Velan was hired by mothers of lovelorn girls to expel harmful spirits from their daughters.
I learned that the traditional Theyyam dance is typically performed by men. Not just any men, but those who have inherited the right to perform it. These men mainly belong to the scheduled castes and tribes. The performers are called 'Theyyakarans', representing divine, mythological, or heroic demigods. It amazed me that there are over 400 distinct Theyyams, each with unique music, style, and choreography. The most prominent are Raktha Chamundi Theyyam, Kari Chamundi Theyyam, Muchilottu Bhagavathi, Wayanadu Kulaven, Gulikan Theyyam, and Pottan Theyyam.
The purpose of performing Theyyam is to bring peace and prosperity to the people. It is believed that all hazards in their lives can be removed by calling out to the Gods and receiving a response. How fascinating! It's incredible how this dance form, rooted in spirituality and faith, has been passed down through generations and continues to play an essential role in the cultural heritage of Northern Kerala.The preparations to become a Theyyam performer starts at a very young age. The young dancers train hard for years to master the intricate art of face painting and the skill of making costumes from coconut husk. But the preparation is not just limited to the physical and spiritual aspects. The dancers follow a strict code of purity before acquiring the divine avatar of the Gods and Goddesses. Celibacy and abstaining from non-vegetarian food and alcohol are part of the purification process.
I got to watch the Theechamundi, an offering to Lord Vishnu's incarnation at Pulikunnu Shree Ivar Bhagavathi Temple. When I arrived at the temple, I noticed an enormous fire in the temple compound's centre. The assistants were busy raking red hot embers into four neat piles beside the burning logs. The concrete steps to one side of the temple were crowded with people jostling for a good vantage point. Despite the uncomfortably intense heat of the fire, I managed to work my way to the front.
As the Theyyam ritual commenced, I was mesmerised by the elaborate preparation process of the male dancer. The backstage area served as the performer's preparation space, just like in show business. I was amazed to see the amount of effort and time that went into the makeup, which took nearly 4-5 hours to complete. The intricate painting was not limited to the face. It extended to the arms, chest, stomach, and any exposed skin. The colours used for the painting were vibrant red, yellow, green, and orange.
Once the makeup was complete, the performer was completely unrecognisable. The coverage of the makeup ensured that he was fully transformed into the God he was representing. Holding a small mirror, he gazed intently at his reflection. My friend explained that this ritual act, known as mukha darshan, is when the dancer transforms into a deity. I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence and wonder at this sacred spectacle before me.
The Theyyakaran's energy and powerful performance transported me to another world. One made of the gods, goddesses, demons, and spirits depicting mythological stories. My friend explained that the dancer was believed to be possessed by the spirits of gods and goddesses. It sent shivers down my spine. The atmosphere was filled with an indescribable spirituality that seemed to engulf both the dancer and the spectators.
The performance culminated with the Agnipravesham act. In this act, the dancer leapt into the fire and rolled on burning coal. I couldn't help but scream in fear for his safety. But as I learned, this act was vital to the ritual. He transcended his human body and appeared as a God to the spectators. He was capable of blessing, cursing, saving or destroying. I was tense but elated, wholly immersed in the drama of this sacred ceremony. The ritual ended and the dancer was seemingly unscathed. He distributed blessings in the form of kuri (turmeric powder) and rice. The music slowly wound down and a large crowd gathered. Everyone sought the God's blessings and advice on inviting prosperity and overcoming adversity.
Witnessing the Theyyam ritual left a profound impact on me. The dedication and preparation put into the dance, the vibrant costumes, and the intense music all came together to create a powerful experience.It made me appreciate how cultures have been preserved over the years and how certain rituals may seem unusual to outsiders. The beauty lies in respecting people's emotions and beliefs. It is inspiring to witness individuals from diverse religions come together to participate in this cultural and ritualistic art form. This is a reflection of Kerala's rich cultural heritage. Here, unity prevails amidst diversity. The all-embracing nature of Theyyam stands as a testament to the state's inclusive and accepting ethos.
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