Three Days in Dharamshala

Refreshed, Rejuvenated, and Ready to Return

We left Dharamshala with a welcome sense of calm and quiet. The mountains have a magic that cannot be explained. A dear friend of mine, Ashwini, has recently done what we all secretly wish we could. She actually packed up her life in Pune, shed off her city girl image and is now living in the wilds of Bhagsu with her three adorable dogs for company.

I Chatted with her about her new life in Dharamshala and asked her for recommendations, 'Well, if you were spending only three days here,' she said, 'I would suggest a hotel in McLeod Ganj. It will save you the trek to and from Lower Dharamshala every day. And if it’s good food you are after, no one does Tibetan food better than Dorje at her restaurant - Norling.

Hands down the best momos in town. For a more European feel, head to Juniper Café. Their croissants and Irish coffee are just superb. I also highly recommend the Dharamkot Pottery studio. You can learn pottery, throw your pieces, and even get them baked and glazed and shipped back to you when they are done.

As I listen to her describe her new life and hows she's thriving, I promise to come to visit her soon and try all these places out firsthand. The mountains are most definitely calling again…

The Mountains are Calling

Dharamshala is in the lush Kangra Valley of Himachal Pradesh. The mighty Dhauladhar range stands to attention around this township. There’s McLeod Ganj or Upper Dharamshala - also the headquarters of His Holiness, the Dalai Lama.

Upper Dharamshala has a distinct whiff of the British Raj, along with a healthy dose of Tibetan mysticism. It is a town like no other and the vibe is peacefully addictive. Lower Dharamshala is more commercial. It is, however, home to the Norbulingka Institute and the ever-popular Kotwali Bazaar.

Getting There is Half the Fun

Dharamshala is well connected by air. We flew directly from Pune, but the latest research shows that this flight no longer operates. Only three airports now have direct flights to Gaggal airport in Kangra - Chandigarh, New Delhi, and Jaipur.

If you are flying to and from any other city, it will entail a stopover and change of aeroplane. We found Gaggal airport to be quite convenient and well-maintained. Taxis from the airport are readily available.

Could We have Stayed at the most Beautiful Airbnb in India?

The highlight of our trip had to be our Airbnb. It was the most enchanting place known as 'The Owl’s Nest.' I first clocked this Airbnb a good three years ago, and swore to myself that if we ever came to Dharamshala, we would only stay here.

To say the place is pretty is an understatement. Every corner is a work of art. Every curio is carefully chosen. Homemade breakfast and dinner are available on request with fresh veggies and milk from a nearby farm. And it’s just 20 minutes away from Gaggal airport.

Time to Zen Out

The Owl’s Nest is not within walking distance of any restaurants or shops. For that, we called for a car and driver (with the help of the manager at the cottage). Kotwali Bazaar is about a 10-minute drive and the Norbulingka Institute is about 20 minutes. That’s where we were headed on our first day in town.

The first thing that strikes you as you enter the Institute is peace. A calm descends upon you almost instantaneously. You find yourself speaking softly and moving unhurriedly. There is no rush to be anywhere. You follow the scent of freshly baked bread and, in no time, discover you have ordered and tucked into a delicious slice of homemade cheesecake.

Fortified with calories and caffeine, the sound of rain on the twirling prayer wheels thrums out a hypnotic rhythm. There is a garden full of tiny waterfalls and splashing fountains. Ponds with koi rim the temple area and bridges take you where you need to be.

The Norbulingka Institute is a famous Tibetan learning centre. The main objective of its art and artefacts is to preserve a dying culture. It is possible to stay at the Institute as well. The accommodation is basic but the surroundings more than make up for it. Non-vegetarian food, alcohol, and tobacco are not allowed in the residences.

Of Cafés and Cake

Apart from the Institute, there is not much else to do in Lower Dharamshala. You could go shopping in Kotwal Bazaar and visit a few cafés such as The Fat Teapot. Owned by Sonalini Chaudhury, the Fat Teapot started as Chaudhury's hobby during the pandemic. It turned into a true business opportunity when she found the ideal space for her dream café.

When we visited, the Fat Teapot’s pastel doors hinted at the chintzy wonder within. Bookshelves lined the corners, a mint green Moka pot stood sentry as you chose a slice (or three) of freshly baked cakes. Paro, the naughty pup, nipped at your feet and begged for scraps. Soon, you settled down with a contented sigh and found yourself at home.

Little Lhasa and More

Day 2 saw us heading onwards and upwards. McLeod Ganj is just 10 kilometres from Lower Dharamshala but if you factor in the traffic and the winding roads, it takes you a good hour or more to reach. The streets of the Tibetan market are teeming with stalls selling silver earrings, and hand-knitted caps and gloves. I picked up a beautifully engraved prayer wheel and quite a bounty of silver earrings as gifts, but bargain you must.

The Church of St. John in the Wilderness is a must-see on your McLeod Ganj itinerary (besides the Dalai Lama complex, which was sadly closed due to Covid when we went). As you meander through the pine trees and peer through the wrought iron fence, the Gothic structure of this British relic stands out as a reminder of Dharamshala’s colonial past.

Sushi Vs Thali

Day 3 was for taking it easy. We started the day with an early morning walk around the cottage. The bracing nip of the mountain air was just the impetus we needed to make our way through the thick pine forests surrounding us.

Lunch was at the Sakura Guest House and Café. If you are looking for Japanese food, freshly baked bread and some exquisite teas, Sakura is the place for you. The hosts are friendly and welcoming, and I hear only good things about the rooms they let out to guests.

After a rejuvenating nap and post-tea potter around the cottage garden (they grow a lot of their fruits, veggies, and spices), we headed out to the Divine Hima for dinner. Now, if the Little Shop of Horrors was a restaurant, this would be it - and I mean this in the best possible way.

Chock full of curios and brick-a-brack from the owner’s collection, the Divine Hima has a sunken den with a crackling fireplace, an outside garden area with tree branches interrupting your dining table and an indoor dining space with a fish pond that shares a room with statuettes and towering cabinets of homemade pickles. All completely bonkers, but thankfully, the food is fabulous.

The Himachali thali (Kangri Dham) revealed unusual vegetables and pulses soaked up by the fragrant meetha chawal. A dinner worthy of my birthday and a fitting reminder of the crazy year we had just witnessed. PS: Pack some pickles to go. They make a lovely souvenir from Dharamshala or an ideal gift for someone you miss.

It's Time to Plan!

It’s said that the best time to visit Dharamshala is any time at all. We travelled in September and experienced several heavy showers and misty morning walks - a truly cosy time to be indoors with a blanket and a good dram of whisky by your side.

Summers fall between April to July, with cooler temperatures and milder nights. Winters start by the end of October and can go on till March. If you are lucky, you might even get snow during this time.