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On a day’s visit to Kalibangan, I learned about the history of the Indus Valley Civilisation. The ancient ruins offered a glimpse into the community that once thrived in harmony with its surroundings.
I have been passionate about history all my life. So, when my colleague invited me to visit Kalibangan, in Rajasthan, I couldn't turn down the opportunity. Kalibangan is one of the most important archaeological sites of the Indus Valley Civilisation, which is counted among the world's oldest civilisations. Undoubtedly, Kalibangan thrived during the prime of the Indus Valley Civilisation. The thought of witnessing its remnants, up close, filled me with excitement. So, on a sunny day, I set off on a journey to explore the magnificence of this ancient civilisation. Here’s a glimpse into all that I uncovered during my rendezvous with history.
I boarded an early train from Delhi to Bikaner. It took me around seven hours to reach Bikaner, from where I booked a direct cab to Kalibangan. The cab ride cost me around Rs. 4,000, and it took us nearly four hours to reach our destination. Kalibangan—which translates to "black bangles"—is situated along the former course of the Ghaggar River in the Hanumangarh district of Rajasthan. The site lies around 350 km northwest of Delhi. The moment I set foot on Kalibangan's soil, it felt like I had travelled back in time. The earth appeared to retain the very essence of our ancestors and their way of life. The wind itself seemed to carry echoes from the past, inviting me to grab my book about the ancient civilisation (yes, I carried it along) and explore Kalibangan's history. Here’s what I discovered.
The ancient town was initially discovered in 1917. However, it was the Indian archaeologist Amalanda Ghosh who confirmed its status as a Harappan site during the 1950s. Further excavations subsequently led to its identification as a provincial capital of the Indus Valley Civilisation. The diggings unveiled its significance, tracing back to about 4,700 years, spanning both the Pre-Harappan and Harappan periods. While exploring the site, I crossed paths with Ramesh, a local resident who was taking a stroll through the area. He proved to be quite knowledgeable about the rich history of Kalibangan. Ramesh told me that the hallmark feature of the Indus Valley Civilisation was its meticulously designed layout. He detailed its advanced drainage system, streets laid out in grid-like patterns, and a clear demarcation between residential and industrial zones. This feat in urban planning became apparent as I observed the remains of well-constructed mud houses. Stretching as far as my eyes could see, the site resembled grey mounds arranged in various shapes, such as squares and rectangles, among others.
Curious about the excavations at Kalibangan, I questioned Ramesh about the rationale behind designating it as a Harappan site. In response, Ramesh gestured towards the remains that resembled fire altars. These structures are thought to have been used for ceremonial rituals as well as events. They bear similarities to the ones discovered in Lothal, which is another famous site of the Indus Valley Civilisation. This resemblance extended to various aspects, including pottery, paintings, town planning, trade and commerce, agricultural practices, and social development—all aligning with the characteristics of typical Harappan sites. Most Harappan towns typically featured a main street that ran from north to south, intersecting at right angles. Residential quarters were constructed using sun-dried bricks, while the underground drainage system was built using burnt bricks. The houses usually comprised six rooms, with kitchens and baths attached to the outer walls.
Kalibangan embodied all these features. Ramesh also highlighted that a significant portion of the pottery found here bore black and red hues. Some grey variations displayed deep impressions with intricate detailing. Additionally, the excavations uncovered steatite and terracotta seals. Furthermore, fragments of Mesopotamian pottery were unearthed, suggesting the prevalence of international trade at the time. With this, Ramesh bid farewell, leaving me astounded by the intelligence and advancements of our ancestors. I gazed across the sweeping landscape peppered with ruins—a testament to an ancient township, lost in time but forever remembered. An inexplicable silence enveloped the site. It seemed to beckon me to delve deeper into the history of the intriguing Indus Valley Civilisation.
Many may view Kalibangan merely as the remnants of a distant era. However, this site requires a perceptive gaze to grasp its true worth. As I strolled along the streets running from north to south, I visualised them converging at right angles on the intersecting roads. A smile played on my lips as if my ancestors could witness my presence. I closed my eyes to feel their presence and, unexpectedly, the melody of Louis Armstrong's 'What a Wonderful World' filled my thoughts. My heart brimmed with gratitude as I pivoted, retracing my path to return to the life I know.
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