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Offbeat things to see and do in the city that never sleeps
Every time I land in Mumbai, there’s a palpable excitement within me. This city is my home. Having lived away from the city for over six years, I’m thrilled to be back in the bay every single time. As soon as I get into a taxi, I gaze out of the window eagerly watching the cityscape to discover what has changed. After all, in a megacity such as this, change is a constant. That said, on every visit, I feel like everything has changed, and yet everything has stayed the same.
Take, for example, my favourite watering hole, Café New York. It still has the red-and-white checkered tablecloths neatly covered with a sheet of glass, the same jukebox whose volume has only two settings: very high or very low, and it still serves the best damn kheema pav on this side of the city. Marine Drive is still the most preferred spot for families and couples to unwind after a long, hard day. And the trains still run with absolute efficiency despite being packed to the gills.
If this is your first visit to the city, I would highly recommend doing a walking tour on day one of your trip. It’s not only a great way to get to know the city intimately but also to orient yourself better. You'll find several companies offering walking tours but Khaki Tours (www.khakitours.com) has some very interesting ones, including one that dives into Mumbai’s illustrious history to give you perspective on how the city went from a small fishing village to the teeming metropolis that it is today.
You will explore colonial architecture, the docks, and the art district, as well as visit the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE). The company also offers a lovely tour through the charming by-lanes of Bandra, taking in the gorgeous churches and villages of this suburb. Mumbai is a city of contrasts, and if you're interested in understanding its dark underbelly, you can sign up for the Beyond the Brothel walk that delves into the infamous Red-Light District. (www.beyond the brothel.com). During this walk, you will learn about not only the sex workers but also the radical political movements that took place here, the incredible resilience of the communities, as well as the area’s surprising connection to the world of Bollywood.
You can't come to Mumbai and not shop! You can easily find some of the top brands in the world at some of the swankiest malls here. But leave that aside for this trip and instead hit the streets. Street shopping in Mumbai is a treasure trove of unique finds.
Head to Bandra Linking Road or Colaba Causeway in South Mumbai for some bargain shopping. Another incredible place to lose yourself for hours is Crawford Market – a chaotic maze of lanes for every imaginable thing that one could need. Each lane in this street bazaar offers distinctive products. There’s a street dedicated only to lighting and home décor, while another exclusively offers electronics and another only stocks fabrics and textiles.
Pro tip: Cool off at the legendary Badshah Cold Drink with a refreshing falooda, a milk-based drink made with rose syrup, basil seeds, cubes of jelly, and vermicelli.
My favourite place to while away an afternoon has to be Chor Bazaar, which is very close to Crawford Market. There’s a saying among the locals that if you lose anything in Mumbai, you can get it at Chor Bazaar.
This area is filled with the kind of artefacts, furniture, and knick-knacks that you might see in the fanciest home décor magazines. Colonial-style desks, intricately carved photo frames, vintage gramophones, gorgeous brass urulis and more are crammed into every available space on this street.
Shopping always makes me hungry. And when I am in Mumbai, I have a checklist of places to eat before leaving the city. Being a melting pot of cultures, the city offers a smorgasbord of culinary experiences. You will find every kind of global food you could expect from a cosmopolitan city like Mumbai, but you can't leave without tasting the local fare. Open up a map on your phone and look at the coastline of Mumbai. Then move up and down the coast, and you’ll get an idea of the city’s foodscape. Mangalorean, Malvani, Gujarati, and Maharashtrian cuisines dominate the local culinary scene.
Most guidebooks will point you to big names like Mahesh Lunch Home and Trishna. While these restaurants serve great Mangalorean food, do try some of the smaller but incredible eateries, such as Fountain Inn in Fort, which does melt-in-the-mouth neer dosa to be dunked into a coconutty prawn, surmai, or bangda gassi (curry). Surmai and bangda are local varieties of mackerel fish which are wildly popular among Mumbaikars. This is also a great place to try kebabs (if you’re sceptical about eating at street stalls). Another gem in the same area is Pratap Lunch Home, which draws regulars from all over Mumbai. Don't miss the surmai rawa fry here or the bombil fry in which the marinated fish is coated in rawa or suji and fried until golden. The result is a flavourful fried fish with a crispy coating.
A Malvani fish thali is a feast for the senses
Another seafood speciality you must try in Mumbai is the Malvani fish thali. Drawing inspiration from its Konkan and Goan neighbours, Malvani cuisine is fiery and flavourful. Seafood, coconut, and freshly ground spices are the hero ingredients in this cuisine and the result is mind-blowing. Head to Jai Hind for a fish thali, which comes laden with rice, rotis, fish curries, and vegetables. If you've had an overdose of seafood, you can even try the chicken sukka thali, which comes with two curries, a dry chicken dish, sol kadi (a sweet-tangy drink made with kokum fruit) and vade (rice-flour puris).
Take a break from all the seafood and meat and head to Shree Thaker Bhojanalay for authentic Gujarati fare served by waiters gently coaxing you for just one more roti or a little more dessert in true Gujarati tradition. The restaurant has no menu, dishes vary daily, and the thali is unlimited. Sink your teeth into yummy vegetarian fare made with simple spices but complex traditional techniques.
Pro tip: Leave your belt at home as the thali is super loaded and you will end up overeating no matter how hard you try not to.
Come teatime, and make your way to Mumbai Dadar area to devour some delicious Maharashtrian snacks. Your first stop should be at Aswad Upahar & Mithai Gruh for its award-winning misal, made with an assortment of sprouts and spices, topped with sev and served with soft pavs.
Just a short walk away is Prakash Restaurant, a humble eatery doling out excellent sabudana vadas and kothimbir vadi which is a typical Maharashtrian snack made from gram flour and fresh coriander and is served with spicy, garlic chutney.
Did you know that Mumbai’s sea hides an incredible wealth of marine life in its belly? You can spot vibrant sea sponges, hermit crabs, anemones, octopuses, and even moray eels right here in the heart of the city. Marine Life of Mumbai (www.marinelife mumbai.in) conducts intriguing shore walks that introduce you to the fascinating world of marine flora and fauna. You can choose to do the walk at Marine Drive, Haji Ali, or Juhu Chowpatty. The walk is free of cost but prior registration is required.
If you want to get closer to the sea, I highly recommend getting onto a ferry from Gateway of India in Colaba and going for a spin. Or you can do what many Mumbaikars do on the weekend and take the ferry (or a speedboat, if you're in the mood to splurge) and explore the charming coastal village of Alibaug. You can check into one of the beautiful villas that have sprung up here over the years to cater to the demands of Mumbai’s holiday-hungry crowd. There are some lovely homestays, too, where you can experience local culture, sample some fantastic homemade Malvani food, and buy handmade papad and pickles.
Thanks to its proximity to the city, Alibaug is a great day-trip option too. And when you're back in the city, make your way to Café Mondegar to end your day with some retro music, happy vibes, and cold beer.
From the outside, Mumbai might seem all glitz, glamour, and fast-paced chaos. But at the heart of the city lies a rich tapestry of art, architecture, culture, and soul just waiting to be discovered if you know where to look.
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