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A "behind-the-mask" view of the world's grandest masquerade and its untold secrets.
Eight years ago, a Venetian couple unexpectedly crossed paths with me in Mumbai. Their arrival at my doorstep, seeking accommodation as couch surfers, marked the beginning of an unforeseen journey. Little did I know that our encounter would pave the way for a friendship that would eventually lead me to city of Venice. Luca and Rosa remained strangers to me when I embarked on my first visit to Venice in the autumn of 2013. The elaborate masks available near the renowned Rialto Bridge fascinated me so much that I couldn't resist buying one for myself. Ever since that moment, the enigmatic Carnival of Venice made a place for itself in my list of dream holidays. The allure of this centuries-old tradition ultimately proved powerful enough to draw me back to Venice in February 2019. The carnival unfolds over the two weeks leading up to the day before Lent. I arrived in Venice before the grand opening ceremony to immerse myself in the festivities along with my Venetian hosts.
The Venice Carnival is closely tied to the period of Lent. As part of this Christian observance, strict dietary restrictions meant that rich foods and alcohol were excluded from the menu for 40 days. To deplete their pantry of these items, residents engaged in pre-Lent feasts and parties, indulging themselves before the commencement of the fasting period. The Carnival of Venice started in 1162 as an impromptu celebration following a military victory. Over time, it evolved into an annual event coinciding with pre-Lent festivities. The use of masks provided a means of anonymity, allowing people to mingle and have secret liaisons across social classes. The licentiousness and excessiveness of the carnival led to its prohibition by the then ruling empire in 1797. However, it was later revived in 1979, and gradually grew into one of the most extraordinary celebrations in the world.
As I stood in Luca's balcony, savouring my morning cappuccino, I noticed that many people were already in their costumes. The official commencement of the carnival took place in the evening, with a water parade along the Cannaregio Canal. Masked performers, including dancers and acrobats, gracefully floated down the canal in decorated boats. A colossal balloon resembling a moon carried a replica of a sailing ship, perfectly aligned with the lunar theme. The atmosphere was nothing short of ethereal. The following day, another water parade unfolded on the Grand Canal. It was a colourful regatta (boat race), led by a boat adorned with a massive papier-mâché rat. Throughout the week, we leisurely wandered the streets running along the canals, relishing the various carnival food items, and immersing ourselves in the enigmatic atmosphere. Often, we would hop onto a gondola—a flat-bottomed rowing boat—to gain a better vantage point of the festivities from the canals.
It wasn't until my second trip to Venice that I realised that the mask I had bought during my first visit was called the Colombina. Adorned with coloured crystals and feathers, the half-mask covers the eyes, nose, and upper cheeks. I encountered numerous other bewildering masks. The full-face Bauta, characterised by a prominent nose and lacking an opening for the mouth, intrigued me. Equally fascinating was the Plague Doctor Mask, featuring a long beak. I admit it looked rather terrifying! Doctors wore them as face shields while treating plague patients in the 17th century.
However, it was the Volto that stood out as the most iconic Venetian carnival mask. At Rosa's insistence, I tried on various Volto masks, which fit snugly over my face. However, since it felt somewhat claustrophobic, I ended up choosing an elegant Colombina. Rosa was also gracious enough to pre-order a costume for me. While many outdoor events were accessible to the public free of charge, the balls were expensive private affairs, which we decided to skip. Clad in our masquerade costumes, we delighted in witnessing glamorous historical re-enactments, operettas, and mask shows. The artists, dressed in their tailored outfits that were crafted by the city's expert ateliers, posed with poise and style. Yet it was the masks themselves that stole the show. Behind these masks, people appeared unhibited and mysterious. The atmosphere was reminiscent of a voyage through time, akin to a world where the elegance of Bridgerton merged with the allure of The Phantom of the Opera.
The city of Venice transformed into a dazzling stage, set for an extravagant spectacle. The performers comprised residents and travellers decked in period-accurate costumes and exquisite masks. However, the essence of the carnival extends beyond the glitz and glamour. The Carnival of Venice is a testament to the city's rich history, culture, crafts, and the preservation of customs. My time at the carnival ended with the mesmerising "Flight of the Angel". Despite the crowds, St Mark's Square erupted in a riot of colour and extraordinary displays. A costumed performer, dressed as an angel, gracefully glided above the square on a zipline. With this, against the backdrop of the silhouettes of Venice and its shimmering canals, I bid farewell to Luca and Rosa, cherishing the memories I was taking home of this remarkable experience.
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