Viva Sao Joao!

Taking the leap

Sao Joao (pronounced as “san jao”) celebrates the feast of St. John the Baptist. Traditionally, this day served as an opportunity for the bride’s family to invite the new son-in-law into their home to get to know him better as well as to celebrate the feast. A fascinating ritual involved young men from the village diving into wells alongside one another. Although the festival is celebrated across the world, this ritual remains unique to Goa. Interestingly, there are numerous tales that surround its origin. At the core of these stories lies the historical significance of the festival. One belief is that St. John expressed joy while in his mother's (Elizabeth) womb, who learned from Mary about the impending birth of Christ. The act of leaping into wells, ponds, or rivers symbolises this “leap of joy”. Another narrative suggests that the festival is celebrated to commemorate the baptism of Jesus Christ by St. John in the Jordan River.

A feast for all

Irrespective of its origins, Sao Joao is celebrated with great fervour in the villages of North Goa. In recent years, the spotlight has been on Saligao village as the epicentre of this remarkable event, which is why I chose to experience the festival in this village. Saligao hosts a grand gala called vangodd, signifying togetherness, within the premises of the revered Mae De Deus Church. When I stepped onto the church premises, the essence of unity became even more palpable. At the Sao Joao festival, families come together to set up stalls, dishing out traditional delicacies, such as homemade chorizo, kismoor (a dried prawn salad), pickles, patoleos (rice crepes filled with jaggery and coconut and steamed in turmeric leaves), and an abundance of monsoon fruits, such as pineapples, jackfruit, and mangoes, often plucked from their own backyards. Smiling aunties offered me delicious congee from clay pots, using ladles fashioned from coconut shells attached to sticks. An elderly man, next to me, suggested that I go to the next stall and add a dollop of homemade pickle on the congee. The tangy, spicy pickle, made with local coconut vinegar, elevated the dish; I licked the bowl clean.

The attendees, dressed in bright, colourful clothes, adorn their heads with floral wreaths known as kopels. I was also handed a pretty kopel and pulled toward the stage where the villagers perform skits and sing Konkani songs. Although I didn't speak the language, I understood the gist of the skit. It was about a father who wanted to get his daughter married to a sophisticated, rich man. But the daughter had her heart set on the humble 'poder' (or baker). After many pleas and arguements with her father, the daughter traipsed off with the baker, leaving her father holding his head in dismay. It's not so much the story, but the comical, over-the-top performances by the actors that had the audience and me in splits. Accompanying these activities was the enchanting rhythm of the ghumot, a traditional musical instrument created by covering an earthen pot with animal skin. The atmosphere was filled with singing, dancing, and pure merriment. Adults and children alike revelled in exuberant rain dances, their smiles illuminating the surroundings. In this tightly knit community, where everyone knows one another, neighbours and friends seize the opportunity to catch up and celebrate. I was so thrilled to be a part of the camaraderie that I didn't want to leave.

Float your boat

I didn't want to miss the other highlight of the Sao Joao festival—the spectacular boat parade, locally known as sangodd. So, I made my way to Siolim village, which is where the event takes place every year. Locals invest their creativity in decorating the boats with flowers, garlands, and incredible sculptures depicting both real and mythical creatures. A spirited competition ensued among the youngsters to win the coveted title of the "best-dressed boat", resulting in a fantastic display of artistic expression. Amid the sculptures, you might even spot colossal footballs, guitars, saxophones, and mermaids. The boats gracefully glide down the river, commencing from Chapora Creek, passing by the church and making their way towards Siolim. After the boat parade, villagers immerse themselves in festivities, enjoying the live band and performances by their friends and family. The festive atmosphere is so contagious that it’s hard not to get swept away by its allure!

A testament to the vibrant spirit of Goa

As more tourists gradually discover the festival, many hotels and resorts have started organising pool parties with DJs and professional dancers to allow everyone to get a taste of Sao Joao. However, I believe that unless you have experienced Sao Joao celebrations with the locals, you haven't experienced the true spirit of the festival. The villages of Goa exude a strong sense of community and these festivals serve as a testament to it. Goans are renowned for their warm hospitality, and Sao Joao is no exception. As long as you are respectful and friendly, you will be invited to partake in the revelry. Spending a day with the locals, learning about the local culture, relishing the flavours of their cuisine, and enjoying the camaraderie, will make this a trip you won’t forget in a long time.