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Rosogolla is a dessert so special that two Indian states fought it out in court to stake claim to its origin.
Even those with limited knowledge of Bengali culture are likely acquainted with the globally renowned sweet delicacy known as rosogolla. These round pieces of chhana (cottage cheese) dipped in sweet sugar syrup are a simple but timeless dessert. Rosogolla has graced dessert plates in Bengali households, weddings, festivities, and celebrations.
Growing up in a Bengali household, rosogollas were an inseparable part of my childhood. As a three-year-old, I used to love them so much that I would not rest till I was fed five rosogollas every day, after pre-school. Although I don't remember the story, my mother never fails to remind me of it. While my obsession with rosogolla faded as I grew up, my love for it remained. Whenever I would visit a sweet shop with my mother, I would buy a box and savour it after meals. Gradually, as I made friends from different cultures and ethnicities, I began to realise the universal appeal rosogolla has among people of non-Bengali origin. However, West Bengal is not the only place where this dessert is famous. I vividly remember the first time I spotted rosogolla being sold abundantly outside my home state. I was eight years old, on vacation with my parents in Puri, when vendors passed us on the beach carrying jars and containers of sweet delights, shouting, "Rosogolla! Chhana bora! Madanamohana!" Curious, I poked my mother to ask what they were selling. Overhearing our conversation, my father called over one of the sellers and ordered three for each of us. When I indulged in the rosogolla, it tasted slightly different from what I was used to back home. It was softer, mushier, and chewier as compared to the spongy balls I was accustomed to. Nevertheless, it was just as delicious. Since then, I made it a point to relish the dessert whenever I visited any place in Odisha. Unfortunately, what some people can enjoy unanimously, without being perturbed by the difference in heritage and culture, other people cannot.
Rosogolla, known as rasgulla in other states of India, is a delicacy so old that no one remembered when and where it originated from or who created it first. For decades, it was enjoyed by all until West Bengal and Odisha decided to go to court over it. The conflict started when Odisha declared 20 July, in 2015, as 'Rasagolla Dibasha' to celebrate its origin. Soon after, the government of West Bengal set up a committee to legally challenge them. West Bengal claimed that rosogolla was invented by Bengalis. They argued that Nobin Chandra Das, the legendary confectionery and sweets brand in Kolkata, created the recipe in the year 1868. They asserted that N.C. Das made the sweet dish by boiling semolina and chhana in sugar syrup. Odisha took a more mythological stance on the matter. They claimed that rosogolla originated in their state long ago when Lord Jagannath appeased the angered Goddess Laxmi with the sweet dish. They also believe that a temple priest taught villagers the art of curdling excess milk, known as pahala, which marked the beginning of the creation of various types of rosogolla and other chenna-based sweets. Bengali experts countered that rosogolla didn't exist in India until the Portuguese brought over recipes for curdling milk in the 17th century. Till then, all Indian sweets were made of khoya instead of chhana. Moreover, they argued that curdled milk would not have been offered to Goddess Laxmi as per the tenets of Hindu rituals. Ultimately, in November 2017, West Bengal was granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for rosogolla. The state government designated 14 November 2018 as Rosogolla Divas. In 2018, the government of Odisha filed a petition seeking GI registration for its variant of rasgulla, challenging Bengal's claim. However, the court dismissed the petition due to a delay in the evidence presented by state to support its claim. However, in 2019, Odisha was granted a GI tag for its variant of the rasgulla. Despite the uncanny nature of the legal battle, the court case became a matter of pride on both sides. Ironically, it highlighted the shared love for well-made desserts and the sweet tooth that both Bengalis and Odias possess.
While rosogolla can be found throughout the country, there's an undeniable charm in visiting local establishments in West Bengal, where you can witness the seller skillfully scoop it out from a sugar syrup-filled wok just for you. If you ever find yourself in Kolkata and develop a craving for rosogolla, you can head to any sweet shop for a taste. Kamdhenu, KC Das, Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick are some of the places where you can find a variety of rosogollas. In addition to the classic variety, there are now different flavours to choose from as well—chocolate, mango, green mango, strawberry, the options are endless. For those seeking an authentic experience, the shops well-known for perfecting the traditional rosogolla recipe include Nobin Chandra Das & Sons, Bhim Chandra Nag, Sen Mahasay, Putiram, and more. While these shops have expanded with multiple branches throughout Kolkata, the original outlets can be found in the northern and the older parts of the city.
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